Honda CRX Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As a result of wreaking my last car and buying another, I decided to writeup how to install a Suspension Techniques rear bar on a 89-91. Please note that I am transferring the bar over, so some parts of this are from memory.

Tools Needed
14mm socket (2 or socket + wrench)
17mm socket
Cold chisel and Hammer (see below)
Paint (optional)

Safety
You will be working underneath the car. Always place jackstands under the jack points. Do NOT work under your car supported solely by the jack (this is a cliche, but important). Also, glasses of some sort can help to keep dirt out of your eyes under the car.

Prep Work
Jack up the car and support it with jackstands. If you own an Si, you will need to take off your stock bar. This is done by removing the 14mm bolts holding the bar onto the control arms (1 per side) and the four bolts holding on the brackets, located just in front of the rear tow hooks.

If you are using shocks that have a welded nut to them, you will need to remove this using a cold chisel and hammer. Place the chisel at the base of the nut and knock it off (if you want, you can clean up this area and repaint it). This can be done on or off the car.
Shock before (simulation):

Shock after:


Next, take off your rear tow hooks. Each is held on by three 14mm bolts.

Finally, you may or may not find it easier to remove the exhaust if you've got one.

Assemble the Bar
The bar can be assembled on or off the car. I already had it built, so I'll cover the assembly off the car.
All bolts/nuts in this section are 14mm.
First, grease up the bushings. Slip each one over the bar where it flattens out on the sides. Place the holder over each, and attach it to the brackets (Bolt-washer-bracket-washer-nut).
Completed bar:


Next, assemble the end links. Attach onto the swar bar, inserting the bolt from the outside (bolt-washer-spacer-endlink-spacer-bar-washer-nut; keep in mind the pictures of the bar off the car have the link on the opposite side of the bar due to some fitament issues on my old car). A note here, I wouldn't place the bolt through the hole closest to the body of the bar (stiffest) if this is your first time with the swaybar. Start at either the far or middle whole, then stiffen it if you like.

Attach the other end of the link the the bracket, with the bolt head facing the inside of the bracket (bolt-washer-bracket-spacer-endlink-spacer-washer-nut).
Close-up (bolt attached to the bar is reversed):


Install On Car
Slide the bar in above the lower control arms. Attach the brackets to the tow hook holes with the provided 17mm bolts like so:

You can choose to place your two hooks back on underneath the bracket if you'd like.

Once the bar is tightly attached to the car, attach each side to the shock. Assuming you have removed the lower shock mount bolts, place the bracket over the shock so that the lip is flush around the side:

Attach this assembly with the 14mm bolt (bolt-washer-shock-LCA-shock-bracket-washer-nut).

Finish/Adjust
That's basically it. Make sure everything is tight, then lower the car back down and drive. From here you can fool around with adjusting the endlinks or changing the stiffness. I find the middle setting balances the car the best (with a stock DX or Si front sway at least), but it's all up to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Word of caution here:

Apparently the bar won't fit with some aftermarket exhausts. My car came with a straight-thru Magnaflow (fartcan) muffler at the end and just piping where the stock crossover muffler should be and the ST bar won't fit.

Unless someone cna provide some words of wisdom, my plan is to take the car to the muffler shop and have them finish installing the bar and re-route the pipes to fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cory:
You're right about the exhaust clearance issues. This bar actually rubbed my muffler on my old car (custom routed w/ a Magnaflow muffler), and I wouldn't doubt it if it did the same on this car (once I get the exhaust on, that is). In some cases you just have to route the exhaust differently to clear it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
CoryB said:
Word of caution here:

Apparently the bar won't fit with some aftermarket exhausts. My car came with a straight-thru Magnaflow (fartcan) muffler at the end and just piping where the stock crossover muffler should be and the ST bar won't fit.

Unless someone cna provide some words of wisdom, my plan is to take the car to the muffler shop and have them finish installing the bar and re-route the pipes to fit.
Hahaha...thats exactly what im doing tomorrow...with the exact same bar and exhaust...good call...hahaha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
Sweet writeup, I have one of these hanging in my garage and was wondering if all those tabs and links were original. Now I know they are!!

So is your car crazy tailhappy now? I'm tentative about installing the rear bar, my car is quite twitchy now, does this just make it an oversteering monster.

What kind of spring rates are you running?

D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm sure you could make it fit, with shortening the end link and possibly making a spacer for the spherical bearing. The angle would be horrible though... the bar would bend out towards the wheel as much as it would torque. I'd just break off the nut, unless you're afraid you'll void a warranty on your shocks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
jfrolang said:
MX5RACER said:
Why not just rotate the shock 180 degrees and put the bolt through the sway bar bracket, then the shock?
The bolt that is provided has a different thread pitch than the nut that's welded on to the shock. The stock bolt that goes through there is too short after bolting the bracket in place.
would it be possible to just buy a longer bolt and nut that is the same thred as the oem one
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Xing said:
jfrolang said:
MX5RACER said:
Why not just rotate the shock 180 degrees and put the bolt through the sway bar bracket, then the shock?
The bolt that is provided has a different thread pitch than the nut that's welded on to the shock. The stock bolt that goes through there is too short after bolting the bracket in place.
would it be possible to just buy a longer bolt and nut that is the same thred as the oem one
ended up rotating it 180 degrees because the plate needs to be on a flat surface..........my way would not work
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I cut off the nut off one of my Koni's.....almost as the nut dropped off the shock - a flash through my mind of turning the shock 180...oh well.

I noticed that the bracket from the shock base to the link does not sit tight against the shock base. I assume the little spacer that is on there is to keep it from rotating by pressing against the thin side of the shock bracket.

I will mock up a proper shape spacer and tack it on.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top