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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever heard of Wicked Innovation's Zero-Play Shift Linkage Modification?

Yup, this one: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=23882.
You can order it here: http://www.wickedinnovation.net/product ... ation.html

Oh and just in case someone gets too lazy to click on the links:

Wicked Innovation said:
Replace your worn out factory or swap linkage universal joint with a sealed, mil-spec unit that will remove all play in your shift rod. Factory Honda linkages are getting old, and many swap linkages lack the tight feel of a nice OEM piece, so we have come up with a solution for both of them. Send us your shift rod, and we'll send you back a piece that's better than anything you've ever used.

Here is a comparison of the stock U-joint to our sealed Zero-Play joint:

Once we remove the stock joint and TIG weld in the new one, this is what you get:
It rocks. My shifting was very loose, and not as accurate, a lot of play, etc. Now, it's much better!

So, for anyone interested in improving their shifting, this is the way to go.

Anyways, in this How-To, I will show you guys how to remove your old linkage, and put in the new one that Wicked Innovation sends you! It's as easy as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6!

Just BTW, I have a 1991 CRX Dx with a D Series engine (D16Y8). Wicked Innovation also does B Swap Mods.

So, you will need the following tools (from top to bottom):

-12mm Socket
-5/16" (8mm) Punch (to remove the "bitch pin") This can be found at Lows
- Crescent Wrench or 12mm Wrench (I just used the Crescent because it was the closest thing in the toolbox)
- Ratchet (must fit with the 12mm Socket, duh)
- Hammer (not a rubber mallet, something tough, to be able to bang the end of the punch, pretty hard)

Close-up on the Punch and Socket:


Got it? Good.

1st of all before we begin our work, you must be safe! Because you will be working under the car, use the car jack to get the car up, but don't just trust the jack! Put some blocks under the car so that just in case, you are still ok. :)b Safety First!

Step 1: Remove the Shifter Bolt.
There is 1 bolt and nut holding the shift linkage rod into place that goes through the shifter. You will need to remove it with the 12mm Socket and Crescent Wrench/12mm Wrench. Like this (but with something holding the nut on the other side (I need 1 hand to use the camera)):

You can let it hang there for the next step.

Step 2: Removing the Bitch Pin.
There are many ways to do this, supposedly, but I just decided to use the Punch-n-Hammer Method. Remove the rubber dust cover thing (mine was torn), and possibly the clip (mine was missing) so that you can see the bitch pin and the hole:

Put the tip of the punch where the bitch pin is with one hand, like in the picture above, (this could get greasy), and use the other hand to grab the hammer. With the hammer, knock the end of the punch so that the tip of the punch is driving the pin up, towards the top of the car, like so:

Keep knocking until you have popped the pin out, for me it was when I heard the pin hit the ground, you may need to use a good amount of force.

I set my punch, hammer, and pin aside:


The rod may have fallen out and hit you in the head. If it didn't, you will want to remove it by grabbing it and pulling it towards the rear of the car, sliding it out of the tube it slides over, where the bitch pin is.

Step 3: Packing.
You can pack it up now and send it to Wicked Innovation! I gave it a few wipes with a rag because it was so greasy, and then covered it in some bubble wrap, etc. Make sure you have packed it so that it won't get damaged when being shipped to them. Ask Matt (mattminerDOTcom) or Tom (downest) if you have any questions, they were very prompt with mine via PM and email.

Now you wait. It took me about 5 Days. 2 days shipped up, 1 day for them to do the mod, 2 days to ship down.

Once it's shipped, and back to you, it will look like this:





Now you can put it back in!!!

Step 4: Putting the Bitch pin back in
This is much easier then taking it out. All you have to do is slip the linkage rod back on, take the punch, and hold the pin against the tip of the punch, lined up with the hole:


Then, just punch it back in, hammering against the end of the Punch, AGAIN torwards the top of the car.
Make sure you don't punch it in too far, or you will have to punch it out, and back in until you get it right.

Give it a jiggle to make sure the pin won't come out, but I'm pretty sure you'll be fine.

Step 5: Put the Shifter Bolt Back

You can figure this one out. Use your 12mm tools to tighten the bolt on. Don't get it too tight, I'll tell you why in the next step!

Step 6: Tighten the Shifter Bolt to preference

I noticed that I tightened the bolt all the way and got in the car to make sure it shifted, and it was like trying to shift through drying cement! So, I figured out that the looser you tightened the shifting bolt, the easier it was to shift. So I just tightened and loosened it to how I liked it. Hope it was safe.

Now, clean up your mess and enjoy!

If anyone has pics or more tips, etc, please PM me, I'll be happy to add anything!

Happy Shifting! :twisted:
 

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cool i want to do this now it looks awsome. how do you like pay them or ect i dont see how on the site. so i email them and ask them before i ship anything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
mel0n666 said:
cool i want to do this now it looks awsome. how do you like pay them or ect i dont see how on the site. so i email them and ask them before i ship anything?
They have an option on the site to "Add to cart" in the top right hand corner:


I did it by Pay-Pal and called Matt to get the email to send it to. I also wanted him to know what colors I wanted my stickers in :wink:

Enjoy your mod!
 

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im assuming if I just have a d series then i click the no button? or like that question kinda confuses me?

yes or no for an 88 dx with z6 swap?
 

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I know, that part of the site is confusing. Click 'No' :) Even if you messed it up, I personally run all these things on the backside and will fix any errors.

Matt
 
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