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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I pulled out the tranny today, which was a nightmare. The middle section of the clutch was broken and binding the whole assembly. I had to unbolt the pressure plate from teh flywheel through the starter hole to get it off, and then use a puller to get the little center section of clutch out. Anyway... I eventually got it out and installed the new stuff, put it all back together (by myself, not fun) and now the clutch is still not f-ing working! The arm is loose, I can pull it to the top of its travel with ease, and the pedal stays on the floor when I push it. I didn't touch the TO bearing or the fork, just changed the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Can someone please help me, I really need to figure out what's wrong and what I need to do when I go back in, since I apparently need to do that tomorrow. I'm getting really frustrated, I don't know what to do and I'm getting sick of taking it all apart for nothing.
 

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Did you tighten the clutch cable? I know when I did mine the first time, I thought that mechanism was way too loose too. But when I put the cable on and tightened it, I realized I was wrong. What I thought was the end of travel, was really just the beginning.

If there is play in it when you move it with your hand, that's normal. But you absolutely will not be able to pull that lever to compress the pressure plate by hand. So it feels like that's the end of the travel, but it's not. Does that make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The nut is all the way down, and I don't think the arm can move any more. I have stef's Si tranny not attached to a motor, and I pulled the arm up on it to see how far it would go, it hits the housing at a point and won't go any more, that's about where mine is when it's at the top.
 

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Yeah, last night I installed the tranny myself with no jack, just lifted her up and fitted it. Was a pain in the ass. The clutch lever is lose to a point and then it stops. I checked my spring, fork and TO bearing and they were working properly before I placed everything back together. If you didn't touch your TO bearing assembly then everything should be fine. Did you check to see that was working properly? There is a bolt in the shaft that turns the fork with it and if it's not in there the shaft will freely turn inside the fork.

I can check my clutch lever travel distance tonight and see how far it goes.

Sorry again about that TO bearing man. Wish I could help out.
 

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So you're saying that when you physically move the clutch lever up and down, it feels as though there is no force being applied to it by anything else whatsoever?

If that is the case, it sounds like the bolt that is at the bottom of the fork, that attaches it to the clutch lever arm may be missing or very very loose. Sad to say it, but it definitelyt sounds like the tranny needs to come out again :(

If you look at that other tranny, you may see the bolt i'm talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know what you're talking about John, that's what I would think too, but I didn't touch it. I'll open it up again tonight, and I guess if I still can't figure it out I'll use the other tranny we have lying around.
 

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Yeah my clutch lever just sticks almost straight out even with the ground and can't be pulled up anymore with hand power. My new clutch has a different feel to it so it seems to engage a little closer to the floor. Maybe I can adjust that.

That speedo cable is a bitch!

Get your tranny figured out Tom?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, pulled the tranny again, and everything is fine. It seems that the ACT pressure plate fingers don't sit as close to the throwout bearing as the stock ones do. What do I need to do to make it work? Do I need a special TO bearing, or can I adjust the fork?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, I'm back at the shop. I took the pressure plate off and compared it to the stock one, and the body of it is larger, so the fingers sit in the same place! I'm really stumped! I took apart the TO bearing/fork assembly and checked it, everything is fine. I really have no clue what to do, can somebody help me, AIM or call my cell (in the AIM profile). If you're close enough to help me tonight or tomorrow morning, I'll buy you a meal or two and a few beers... I need my car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It runs! I haven't slept, and the car isn't out of the shop yet, but I got it to run. First off, I'm emabarassed to admit I installed the clutch backwards. Got that straightened out, Started it up... the dizzy was 180 off, and it feels like the cam timing is off a little too. It's making a bit of noise above 3000 RPM, and after we got it started and ran for a few seconds it threw a code 7, which I think is the TPS. Would having bad timing cause that? Anyway I'm going to sleep a little and then get back to it, made some good progress today.
 

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congrats man, i am trying to get my mini-me running and i'm having problems getting it to start. i may have some timing answers for you after tonight but we'll see.

i don't think you can install the distributor 180 off can you? i thought the slot in the end of the cam that it hooks up to was slightly off center. maybe mine is 180 off too then cause i can't get it to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You can. I realized it was because it was actually moving around off the cam axis when I wastrying to start it. Finally got some sleep, going to head over there in a couple of hours and have some good one-on-one time with my CRX.
 

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I'm just curious... but I've always been told that you should replace the TO bearing whenever you replace the clutch to avoid problems down the road. Was the TO bearing relatively new in this case?
 

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With all that in and out with the tranny, double check that all the grounds are back on and tight. It's an easy mistake that can give you codes.
 

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downest said:
installed the clutch backwards
If something was working fine and you go in to do some work then all of a sudden it's not working anymore, chances are it was something you did or didn't do. In your case Tom, you didn't realize that on the clutch disc there's a stamping on one side that says "flywheel side".

If you didn't, remember next time to lube the length of the input shaft that the throwout bearing rides and slides on with some sort of grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
dohcrxl said:
downest said:
installed the clutch backwards
If something was working fine and you go in to do some work then all of a sudden it's not working anymore, chances are it was something you did or didn't do. In your case Tom, you didn't realize that on the clutch disc there's a stamping on one side that says "flywheel side".

If you didn't, remember next time to lube the length of the input shaft that the throwout bearing rides and slides on with some sort of grease.
I did lube the input shaft. My clutch actually doesn't have a stamp on it, it was a used clutch from d16z6rex.
 
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