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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i want to upgrade my brakes but i dont know what setup i should do,can anyone tell me a good combo?i want max stoping power thanks
 

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Since you didn't specify a budget, I will suggest either EX knuckles with integra calipers and re-drilled rotors, or use accord or legend or NSX calipers on the same knnuckles and rotors.

Contact fastbrakes.com is you want to know more. They specialise in that stuff.
They also have conversion sets so you don't have to swap suspensions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
is that like the best combo i can use? cuz i heard the nsx calipers ar kinda heavy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
reply some links for me plz and thank
 

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I 2nd the stoptech. Add to that the hawk pads and you'll be golden. 8)
 

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What is the car going to be used for? My crx with upgraded pads(all four) stops better than my brother crx with gsr fronts and advanced auto pads and drums in the rear. The drums do not brake as well but rear disk do not stop that much better than drums.

Do you mind brake dust and noise?
 

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Too be honest, just getting KVR cross drilled rotors and hawk pads made my car brake with a world of difference over the stock ones. Very impressed with just better quality parts in the factory braking system.
 

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ludesrv said:
Too be honest, just getting KVR cross drilled rotors and hawk pads made my car brake with a world of difference over the stock ones. Very impressed with just better quality parts in the factory braking system.
I agree. Just make sure you do not put better pads in the rear otherwise your car will be tail happy when you are turning in and breaking. Won't the cross drillled rotors kill the life of the pads? I have heard they are not as good as what people think they are, and to just get slotted rotors.
 

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george34 said:
I have heard they are not as good as what people think they are, and to just get slotted rotors.
Thats what ive heard as well, the cross drilled will crack over time. All you need is the sloted.
 

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SETI20 said:
When you are not upgrading sizewise, you don't want cross drilled discs.
You want to loze even more surface than you have? Those discs are tiny enough as it is.
I want cross drilled because I paid 30$ per rotor for brand new KVR cross drilled. I had slotted on my Prelude and I absolutely hated them. You could feel the slot hit in the brake pedal at lower speeds. Very annoying. I love cross drilled and I wouldn't never buy slotted. But again, that's all user preference. They offer the same cooling potential with less surface area missing.

I can't say as for lifespan of the pads. Over 30XXXkms and still going with about half the pad left lol. I don't break hard. The only time I do is racing at the track which is like...3 times a year, tops. I may do some highway pulls once in a while but try my best not to use my brakes as often as I can. The rotors have never warped, I have resurfaced them for good measure (tons of meat left on them at the time). I can tell you the only thing I would do next step is get them coated so the non used areas don't rust as much. It's like 15$ a rotor more or something like that from KVR.
 

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i defintely would advise against cross drilled, if for only that they provide no benefit and decrease the brake surface area.

hawk pads are excellent though. those and bremo blanks give you a world of stop for not alot of money.

[email protected]
 

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mattminerDOTcom said:
i defintely would advise against cross drilled, if for only that they provide no benefit and decrease the brake surface area.

hawk pads are excellent though. those and bremo blanks give you a world of stop for not alot of money.

[email protected]
Agreed. Slotted and or drilled only comes into effect if you're doing a lot of hard breaking (like in autoX). They don't help you stop any faster. The slots are for cooling faster... however you don't want to rotor to get too cool as it doesn't brake as well. So spending money to cool faster when you're not going to break again untill the next stoplight (at which time even stocks would be cooled) is just silly.

Unless you want to increase diameter and/or get new calipers... just get better pads and call it a day.

Now if you'll be autox-ing... please disregard what I said :)
 

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drnknmnky13 said:
mattminerDOTcom said:
i defintely would advise against cross drilled, if for only that they provide no benefit and decrease the brake surface area.

hawk pads are excellent though. those and bremo blanks give you a world of stop for not alot of money.

[email protected]
Agreed. Slotted and or drilled only comes into effect if you're doing a lot of hard breaking (like in autoX). They don't help you stop any faster. The slots are for cooling faster... however you don't want to rotor to get too cool as it doesn't brake as well. So spending money to cool faster when you're not going to break again untill the next stoplight (at which time even stocks would be cooled) is just silly.

Unless you want to increase diameter and/or get new calipers... just get better pads and call it a day.

Now if you'll be autox-ing... please disregard what I said :)
Even in auto-x I would still not buy drilled rotors. I will never have them on my dd/auto-xed crx.

Ludsrv how could you feel the slots of the rotors? The slots are down the middle of the rotor. I have never been in a car with them so I am just asking.
 

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Weird, I've never felt the slots on mine...

I'm running OEM sized Powerslots with EBC green stuff, though I will replace them with HP+ or HPS when they go. It's plenty of stopping for me, street and autocross.

whoring:
 
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