i am trying to install a new clutch in my car but i can not get the nut off of the ball joint bolt where the steering nuckle and lower control arm connect together because the bolt is spining and there is no where to hold it. if anyone has any ideas i would really approciate them.[/img]
installing new clutch
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When the whole ball joint spins and won't loosen you need to get the lower ball joint to jam up a little into the knuckle to stop it from spinning. Try putting a jack under the lower control arm and raising the car up on that one side so there is pressure on that arm. Once I had to put a scissor jack also on the upper ball joint between the inner fender and the upper control arm. That made even more pressure on that lower joint and stopped it from spinning. There are also nut crackers for like 10 to 15 bucks that will crack the nut so you can get it off, then use the ball joint tool to get the ball joint out of the knuckle the easiest way, and also keeps the joint reusable...... sometimes forks tear up the boots.
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hey cody, take the above advice..... . put a jack under the lower control arm and crank up some tention on it.. the ball jaint is tapered and cranking it up will jam the shaft.. letting you get the bolt off.... once you have done it a few times it is easy... you prob should get new ball joints while they are out... they are about 15 bucks each,,, also i have used a pickle fork on them and pried down... while wrenching that works well too. . . . .also vice grips can help ou clamp it down too...
let me know if you need help.... i might be able to take a little time off to mend a hand. .
Chris
let me know if you need help.... i might be able to take a little time off to mend a hand. .
Chris
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731 Posts
cdygibson, first let me ask you this: Is the joint already separated from the LCA but the castle nut is still on and spinning with the joint? Or did you undo the nut a few turns then the whole joint just started spinning while the joint and LCA haven't yet separated? If the former then no big deal. If the latter then you'll have problems. That is because the "splines" or "grooves" so to speak inside the ball joint are very worn and aren't gripping to hold the joint in place.
Jacking up the suspension from under the LCA sometimes works because the pressure applied forces the joint in such a way that I don't know how to explain that makes the "grooves" grip. Sometimes that doesn't work because the joint is very worn and has been apart many times with someone before you spinning the joint round and round wearing away at those "splines" or "grooves" inside the joint. In this case you actually have to first separate the joint then apply downward pressure on the LCA while applying upward pressure on the knuckle. This can be done by jacking the suspension up 3-4 inches from under the body of the rotor while prying down on the LCA. An assistant is helpful in an event like this because while he is prying down and the jack is pushing up on rotor thus the knuckle, you can be loosening the castle nut. What's happening here is you're pulling the joint apart and finding the unworn sections of the "grooves" to hold the joint steady.
Ghettofabulous way to separate the lower balljoint: Turn the wheel all the way to the inside of the car, left or right depending on which side you're working on. Lock the steering. Get a short old or junk 3/8 extension and attach it to a medium length 3/8 extension. Insert the assembly in between the knuckle and the LCA in the direction of back to front of car. The assembly will protrude outward at an angle and hold itself in place. Get a sledge and whaaaaack (swinging in the direction of back to front of car) Works everytime for me and doesn't ever rip the boot or damage the joint like a pickle fork would. Stay tuned for more ghettofabulous shade tree techniques. LOL
btw- A half inch impact with a swivel 17mm will make problems with balljoints a thing of the past.
-Heu
Jacking up the suspension from under the LCA sometimes works because the pressure applied forces the joint in such a way that I don't know how to explain that makes the "grooves" grip. Sometimes that doesn't work because the joint is very worn and has been apart many times with someone before you spinning the joint round and round wearing away at those "splines" or "grooves" inside the joint. In this case you actually have to first separate the joint then apply downward pressure on the LCA while applying upward pressure on the knuckle. This can be done by jacking the suspension up 3-4 inches from under the body of the rotor while prying down on the LCA. An assistant is helpful in an event like this because while he is prying down and the jack is pushing up on rotor thus the knuckle, you can be loosening the castle nut. What's happening here is you're pulling the joint apart and finding the unworn sections of the "grooves" to hold the joint steady.
Ghettofabulous way to separate the lower balljoint: Turn the wheel all the way to the inside of the car, left or right depending on which side you're working on. Lock the steering. Get a short old or junk 3/8 extension and attach it to a medium length 3/8 extension. Insert the assembly in between the knuckle and the LCA in the direction of back to front of car. The assembly will protrude outward at an angle and hold itself in place. Get a sledge and whaaaaack (swinging in the direction of back to front of car) Works everytime for me and doesn't ever rip the boot or damage the joint like a pickle fork would. Stay tuned for more ghettofabulous shade tree techniques. LOL
btw- A half inch impact with a swivel 17mm will make problems with balljoints a thing of the past.
-Heu
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