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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey!

New to the forum but not to CRXs. This makes the fifth CRX I've owned in my lifetime. I just picked up a minty 1990 Si-R and thought my fellow Rexphiles would appreciate the acquisition.

Like every other CRX I've owned, it needs some work. The seller tells me it is a B16A from the Si-R II and the swap was completed in Japan. The transmission is a Y1 with LSD. A Yakimoto cat-back is present. There are a couple Mugen goodies like the steering wheel, shift knob and the 15" RNR wheels (re-powder coated).

It certainly could use a brake upgrade and I strongly suspect an exhaust leak.

The interior is in VG+ condition. The climate control remains intact. The door panels don't have the seatbelt scars. The seats themselves are in good condition but I'd like to take them out to prevent them from becoming too worn.

Nice to make everyone's acquaintance!

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Amazing man! It takes a great deal to have it the way it is currently... and to get a JDM spec CRX is that much more invaluable!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Many thanks!

I confirm there are bass tubes present but alas, no power folding mirrors.

Anybody here from WA state?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you have the shade for that glass top!
Car looks amazing and love the look of it, but it also has to get super hot in the sun still.
No shade, unfortunately. It doesn't get too hot here in WA but I have yet to drive this car during summer so we'll see!
 

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Why do you think it needs a brake upgrade? Have you had any specific issues?

--DD
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Why do you think it needs a brake upgrade? Have you had any specific issues?

--DD
The previous owner told me his next purchase would've been a brake upgrade. I don't disagree. I can tell the brake lines haven't been bled properly because the braking is spongy and the pedal sinks nearly to the floor at rest. Personal preference is also taken into consideration.
 

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In that case, you should bleed the brakes. Actually, completely flushing them to get new fluid into the system is a good idea. Then see if there are still any problems.

If there are, then fix the problems.

Stock brakes on a CRX are pretty good. Most brake "upgrades" on these cars are a waste of money, IMHO.

--DD
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After having driven it several more times since my introduction, I can honestly say things aren't that bad with the brakes and I agree they just need to be flushed.

It's awful drafty and not very fun to drive in the cold, wet conditions because the defroster can't keep up with the interior condensation. Worse yet, I can't tell if the heater works because the climate control knob is inaccessible behind the spring-loaded panel that seems jammed in place.

The alternator died on me while I was out one time and that was unpleasant to deal with. Fortunately, the tow truck driver came prepared with 2 x 4's to help my lowered car onto the flat bed. Dude gave me a ride home, too. The previous owner installed MPC drop forks in the front, but I want to go back to stock height because it's so uncomfortable to drive over the many railroad tracks where I live, and the ****ty potholes that never seem to be repaired. Also, being 6' tall doesn't help with getting in/out of the car.

I've bought new moldings for the rear quarter windows, the front door windows, and the roof.

I was also really disappointed that it didn't come with power folding mirrors, but I heard that option only started on the 1991+ models and alas, my Si-R is a 1990. So I bought the folding mirrors, the switch, and the relay to make it all happen.

I was undecided between K-swapping and boosting, but I thought boosting would be less expensive and less time-consuming. So I'm not going to make any performance modifications until I am able to put my plan together. Maybe that's next winter's project ;)
 

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It's awful drafty and not very fun to drive in the cold, wet conditions because the defroster can't keep up with the interior condensation. Worse yet, I can't tell if the heater works because the climate control knob is inaccessible behind the spring-loaded panel that seems jammed in place.

I've bought new moldings for the rear quarter windows, the front door windows, and the roof.
The HVAC should have no issues keeping up, you may have a leak that is allowing water in and/or the heat is not actually working.

Skip putting those rear 1/4 moldings on the rear glass, they are not needed and actually look better without them. Plus, you have to remove the glass in order to clip them in.
 

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Skip putting those rear 1/4 moldings on the rear glass, they are not needed and actually look better without them. Plus, you have to remove the glass in order to clip them in.
not to steal this thread but Baker, do you have a picture of a crx without the rear 1/4 window moldings? mine are crap and was thinking of replacing them to.
 

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not to steal this thread but Baker, do you have a picture of a crx without the rear 1/4 window moldings? mine are crap and was thinking of replacing them to.
I used to have pics of my car when I did it, but those pics are lost.
I did find these that were posted on here a long time ago, not my car though.


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here are some more pictures. I don't have a lot of time to work on the SiR as much as I want to, and so I've been going over it recently and finding some things I already want to change.

It appears that the previous owner removed the ABS when they converted to OBD-I.
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I already took the amber corner lenses off that were from Password:JDM and put the OEM corners back on. You can also see how the housing of the OEM fog lights are severely corroded. I wish I knew where I could get new housings.
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Found a P28 chipped ECU from HAMotorsports. I have no idea what tuning it has, but I've been getting boggy response while accelerating after a severely corroded battery cable was replaced.
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The head is a JDM PR3-2 and appears to have been manufactured in 1995 according to the stamps.
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And although I've already replaced the floor mats with aftermarket ones, I do still have the originals.
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And the seller gave me all the original parts he took off. He gave me an ITR intake manifold, ITR throttle body, the OEM PW0 ECU, the OEM header w/ heat shield, OEM air intake (which I can't put back on because the battery is currently where the resonator box would go), and the OBD0 distributor and cap.
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I've already ordered a top end gasket replacement kit from JHPUSA because I noticed a pretty severe and obvious oil leak coming from near the VTEC solenoid. My plan is to take the motor/tranny out and get everything cleaned.

I've got the mind to boost it, so when I take the motor out I'm going to break it down and (if needed) hot tank the head and peripherals. I just want to make sure everything is good enough to handle 10 psi. But I think that's next winter's project. (y)
 

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I was undecided between K-swapping and boosting, but I thought boosting would be less expensive and less time-consuming. So I'm not going to make any performance modifications until I am able to put my plan together. Maybe that's next winter's project
Nice car. I have an 89 SiR glass top, and bought an OG JRSC and LHT manifold and aftercooler for it. I'd keep it B-series, and I'm a huge fan of the K-series. If you end up staying NA for a while, I have a FEEL'S ECU that I could part with for the right price.
 
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