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You might want to check out the front/passenger suspension components. The wheel is considerably rearward in the wheel well. Does the car have an aftermarket front crossmember? If so, the radius rod may be set to be too long. Or it's been in an accident.

Also...I see that the engine has been converted to run a coil-on-plug setup. I doubt that a stock ECU is going to properly work with that. Usually a piggy-back ECU setup (like Hondata) is required to operate the COP. (Or at the very least, some sort of "chip" modification to the ECU.
 

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So a couple of things.....
1...Looks like you have the Innovative Pro-Series Competition crossmember / traction bar.

2...The radius rod (the aluminum bar in your photos) is mounted upside down. The chamfered edges should be facing upwards. That won't solve your problem at hand, but it helps with clearance against the transmission. Like you said though, the bolts that attach to the lower control arm are hard to access. It's easier to get those bolts in/out when the shock fork is removed.

3...The radius rods certainly have adjustment, but not from the end you're showing in your photos. At the front end, near where it attaches to the crossmember, there is a turnbuckle. Loosen the jamb nuts that are on either side of it, and then you can put a wrench on the turnbuckle. Turning that will bring the wheel forward/back in the wheel well. You can adjust it some, just to get it eye-balled to be closer to being centered in the wheel well. But you'll definitely want to take it to an alignment shop (that knows how to work on these kinds of aftermarket parts) to get it dialed in.
 
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