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okay so good news! i found a shop near me that does tunings and specialises in imports. and the owner of the shop drives a CRX! more good news, im already converted. i have the OBD-1 system and so all i need is to have the wire mess cleaned up, and then do a tuning on my new ECU. the shop owner said he knows a guy that does all the wiring and is gonna put me in touch. good news all around minus the fact that it’s gonna be like $400 total for tuning and wiring. but it could be worse i suppose.

now i’m not sure who brought this up earlier about my wheels sitting back in the wheel well. took it to a mechanic to get the whole car looked at top to bottom to see what i needed to fix or anything. mechanic said it’s the cleanest crx he’s seen in 20 years. (lucky me!) however, it turns out the wheels are sitting funny on the front possibly because of the engine swap. the way they put the engine in there is making the axle sit at a constant angle. there’s what looks like an adjustable control arm to make the whole thing fit. idk. looks weird. it’s causing the inside of the wheels to wear out insanely fast compared to the outside. not quite sure how to fix it. mechanic said suspension job looks botchy. not adjusted correctly. but he did take some pics and is sending them to me so i will post them as soon as i have them!
Is a clean looking car. You do have some issues that may be challenging, like the wiring, and the front suspension.
There is clearly something not correct with the front suspension, and the B18 motor is not the cause of the front suspension geometry. Many have a B conversion with correct front geometry.
What may be causing this? I'd look at every suspension part up front to make sure you have CRX parts. Upper, lower control arms, as well as locating rod. My guess is there are non CRX parts being used, causing this. I would think this is a big safety issue, and would have a negative affect on handling.
Good luck.
 

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So a couple of things.....
1...Looks like you have the Innovative Pro-Series Competition crossmember / traction bar.

2...The radius rod (the aluminum bar in your photos) is mounted upside down. The chamfered edges should be facing upwards. That won't solve your problem at hand, but it helps with clearance against the transmission. Like you said though, the bolts that attach to the lower control arm are hard to access. It's easier to get those bolts in/out when the shock fork is removed.

3...The radius rods certainly have adjustment, but not from the end you're showing in your photos. At the front end, near where it attaches to the crossmember, there is a turnbuckle. Loosen the jamb nuts that are on either side of it, and then you can put a wrench on the turnbuckle. Turning that will bring the wheel forward/back in the wheel well. You can adjust it some, just to get it eye-balled to be closer to being centered in the wheel well. But you'll definitely want to take it to an alignment shop (that knows how to work on these kinds of aftermarket parts) to get it dialed in.
Totally agree with this. I'd replace that aluminum bar with a stock rod. That bar is pushing the alignment back too far. You can even see the sway bar bushings is tilted due to mis alignment.
Stock radius rods more than sufficient for street use. Get that corrected and re aligned, and your tire wear issues should be resolved.
Good luck.
 
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