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So a couple of things.....
1...Looks like you have the Innovative Pro-Series Competition crossmember / traction bar.

2...The radius rod (the aluminum bar in your photos) is mounted upside down. The chamfered edges should be facing upwards. That won't solve your problem at hand, but it helps with clearance against the transmission. Like you said though, the bolts that attach to the lower control arm are hard to access. It's easier to get those bolts in/out when the shock fork is removed.

3...The radius rods certainly have adjustment, but not from the end you're showing in your photos. At the front end, near where it attaches to the crossmember, there is a turnbuckle. Loosen the jamb nuts that are on either side of it, and then you can put a wrench on the turnbuckle. Turning that will bring the wheel forward/back in the wheel well. You can adjust it some, just to get it eye-balled to be closer to being centered in the wheel well. But you'll definitely want to take it to an alignment shop (that knows how to work on these kinds of aftermarket parts) to get it dialed in.
Totally agree with this. I'd replace that aluminum bar with a stock rod. That bar is pushing the alignment back too far. You can even see the sway bar bushings is tilted due to mis alignment.
Stock radius rods more than sufficient for street use. Get that corrected and re aligned, and your tire wear issues should be resolved.
Good luck.
 

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1991 Honda Civic CR-X b18c3
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
hey everyone! it’s been a little while, sorry about that but school kinda kicked my a$$ the last two weeks. but anyway!

update:1) radius rods and front alignment is scheduled to be well, aligned, in a couple of days! so that will take care of that problem.
2) i bought a used A/C system from a ‘94 teg and will be installing that the next sunny day this week. i was able to procure one with all the hoses and hardware in tact. i’ll put it in in order and start making a list of what little pieces i may need to buy here and there. i think this will help me instead of looking online for “entire A/C system”.
3) sadly, the tuning shop near me that i found does only that. tunings. they will not mess with the wiring of my ecu and stuff. so im on my own. it looks like everything that needed to be wired for the OBD0 to OBD1 conversion was done, it was just done very unorganised. but all the cables seem to be saudered and coming to and from where they’re supposed to. which leads me to my next question. and i’ll probably make a separate post about this as well. but i have my old p28 and my new p72 ecu’s. obvi i need the 72. when i ordered it, i spoke to the guy (based out of california) and told him my situation. he took a list of my bolt ons and said he could tune it with a simulation program he had. he said it would obviously not be as perfect as actually having it tuned to my exact car but the map would work. so do i even need to go to that tuner near me? if i can get the 72 to plug in i should be golden right? only thing with that is the COP’s i have need the extra circuit board modification. could i take the mod on my 28 and just add it to my 72? or is the more to it then that? it doesn’t look terribly hard to do. and lastly, there shouldn’t be any different wiring to do to the actual harness right? since conversion is complete?

sorry for the huge response. and thank you so much for taking the time to help me with this. i truly appreciate it!
Circuit component Green Hardware programmer Electronic engineering Electrical wiring
 
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