Just bought my suspenion
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What are the spring rates? You should be happy with the AGXs, I was very close to buying them, but I found a really good deal on Illuminas. I drove Matt's GSRX with AGXs, and I was very impressed with them. The only thing I don't like is the colour, they kind of say "steal me", but then again, white isn't much better.
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krylon ultra flat black can solve that.
the AGXs are great shocks. the teins are pretty good too, a little soft for a guy like me, but they are good street springs.
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the AGXs are great shocks. the teins are pretty good too, a little soft for a guy like me, but they are good street springs.
[email protected]
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6,567 Posts
268/123 according to the tein website.
my springs in that car are 450/350.
the springs(omnipower) for the other crx are 10k/8k, or like 550/450 for us americans.
my tein SS one piece coilovers were 8k/5k, and rex2nr should buy them since he just saw how beautiful they were.
anyway, the tein stechs should ride nice on teh street. at least they wont break you rback
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my springs in that car are 450/350.
the springs(omnipower) for the other crx are 10k/8k, or like 550/450 for us americans.
my tein SS one piece coilovers were 8k/5k, and rex2nr should buy them since he just saw how beautiful they were.
anyway, the tein stechs should ride nice on teh street. at least they wont break you rback
[email protected]
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6,567 Posts
then you made an excellent decision
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529 Posts
i finally got my springs in friday and i went around the shops here checking to see how much they would charge... the cheapest was $250 and the other was $350!!!
yeah, thats not happening... I was reading Stickershop's How-To on the rear suspension and it was pretty simple looking, but how different is the front?
yeah, thats not happening... I was reading Stickershop's How-To on the rear suspension and it was pretty simple looking, but how different is the front?
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2,040 Posts
Do the install yourself. But beware of the notorious, nefarious, infamous rear lower control arm. Typically the end bolt that connects to the trailing arm gets corroded and rusty and siezes to the inside of the lca bushing. So either the bolt head will shear off, or the bushing will tear out. Either way i'd have a sawzall on hand with some good metal cutting blades. If this does happen to you, you will need either new bushings or a new lca. if you get a new lca i'd get one from a later model teg becasue theya re the same but a bit beefier.
For the front you will need a 12mm socket to take the brake lines off of the damper. Then you will need a 14mm socket to remove the pinch bolt that holds the little fork to the bottom of the damper. Then you want to push down on the knuckle to slide the fork off of the damper most of the way. Next use 2 17mm sockets/box wrenches to unbolt the bottom of the fork from the lower control arm bushing. Wiggle the fork down and off of the damper. Pull the fork out of the way. Then use a 14mm deep socket to unbolt the damper hat from the chassis from above inside the engine bay. Hold the spring+damper as it drops out. Then put your new spring+damper in making sure the little pinned area in the back is lined up with the little slot area in the fork sleeve. Now revers these steps. Oh, but when you torque down the 17mm fork bolt, make sure you get a jack under the lca to compress the suspension. You want the bushing to be in its resting position once the car is sitting back on the ground, not all bound up. Hope that all makes sense.
good luck. I just did my suspension in a couple hours yesterday afternoon.
For the front you will need a 12mm socket to take the brake lines off of the damper. Then you will need a 14mm socket to remove the pinch bolt that holds the little fork to the bottom of the damper. Then you want to push down on the knuckle to slide the fork off of the damper most of the way. Next use 2 17mm sockets/box wrenches to unbolt the bottom of the fork from the lower control arm bushing. Wiggle the fork down and off of the damper. Pull the fork out of the way. Then use a 14mm deep socket to unbolt the damper hat from the chassis from above inside the engine bay. Hold the spring+damper as it drops out. Then put your new spring+damper in making sure the little pinned area in the back is lined up with the little slot area in the fork sleeve. Now revers these steps. Oh, but when you torque down the 17mm fork bolt, make sure you get a jack under the lca to compress the suspension. You want the bushing to be in its resting position once the car is sitting back on the ground, not all bound up. Hope that all makes sense.
good luck. I just did my suspension in a couple hours yesterday afternoon.
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529 Posts
well, he spent about 6 hours trying to get the bolts out of the rear LCA :lol:
im glad i didnt do it! Man, before the rear suspension got set it, it was HORRIBLE. like, i couldnt talk on my cell phone to tell my friend how terrible it was because i couldnt keep my hand next to my head becuase of all the bouncing/jerking! But now everything is EXCELLENT, i couldnt be happier
Before:
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After:
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I can barely fit my finger in the back wheel well!! 8)
im glad i didnt do it! Man, before the rear suspension got set it, it was HORRIBLE. like, i couldnt talk on my cell phone to tell my friend how terrible it was because i couldnt keep my hand next to my head becuase of all the bouncing/jerking! But now everything is EXCELLENT, i couldnt be happier
Before:
After:
I can barely fit my finger in the back wheel well!! 8)
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