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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just helped a friend put a Fidanza flywheel in his MX6 V6, along with a CM stage 2 clutch. I love the feel when driving it, it grabs low and revs really fast. I want to get a setup like that for my CRX. First off, will it bump me out of CSP? The rulebook says flywheels may be changed, but it also says there is no lightening of rotating/reciprocating parts. What's a good weight to go with for an A6? I've heard lighter flywheels make less torque in the low end. On one side of that, there isn't too much down there to begin with, but on the other side, I'm usually above 4000 RPM during a Solo II run. I was thinking a while back about lightening my stock flywheel, but I think it's better, and safer to just buy an aftermarket one. So, whats a good wheel, at a good price, and what weight, and how will that affect the car. I know some of you posted a while back about the ProLite from ACT, how do you like those? Oh yeah, and what's the best clutch to mate with it? I've read it's not necessary to get a performance clutch on a stock motor, that it will wear out quicker, is that true?
 

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if i am not mistakin i beliveive unorthodox makes a nice wheel(not sure ont he spelling)

ebay is your best bet on pricing as with anything ever made

as for thequestion about taking you out of csp, i don't think the flywheel would matter

i know i am not very helpful but there ya go lol
 

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I'm currently running a lighter flywheel. Most people will say that about 11-13lbs is optimal on a pretty much stock A6. I'm using a Evo Industries 11.5lb flywheel. I believe Stickershop is running the ACT Prolite. I've seen the ACT streetlite for about $200 which is pretty standard for a lighter flywheel. Unorthodox Racing is just way to high in my opinion.

Performance seems to be a lot better with a lighter flywheel but that also may be due to the new clutch as well. I thought about getting the stock one lightened but the thought of it shattering or something kind of worried me. Might as well buy a new one with a warranty.
 

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downest said:
What's stock, 15 lbs?
Weighing it right now...I knew keeping the old flywheel would come in handy...

My used 88 CRX Si flywheel weighs exactly 17.4lbs.
 

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downest said:
What's stock, 15 lbs? How do you like that ProLite Stickershop?
It's awesome. Everybody said it wouldn't be street-able, but I drive the car daily to and from work, and I love it. I also have an ACT modified street disc and xtreme pressure plate with it. It's a little jerky at first and very stiff, but you get used to it after a while. If you go with a heavier pressure plate, I would suggest looking into getting a stronger pin in the differential. I've known a few people who have shattered there's with a heavier duty pressure plate. I believe the one from the 92 - 95 civic is forged and is much stronger...and it will fit out cars.
 

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I run the Pro-Lite in my car,and love it.
Mine revs faster and doesnt have that kinda lag that it used to.
:thumbsup: for pro-lite
 

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downest said:
Do you need to upgrade the clutch at the same time?
You dont HAVE to,but since its apart why not?!
Its just preventative maintenance in my book.
I think I paid almost $600 for the clutch and flywheel together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No, I'm not asking about replacing it, I mean is it necessary to go with something beyond the Exedy OEM replacement. My has under 10k, assuming I believe the previous owner.
 

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downest said:
No, I'm not asking about replacing it, I mean is it necessary to go with something beyond the Exedy OEM replacement. My has under 10k, assuming I believe the previous owner.
No. It's not necessary. Most people do it because it's such a big pain to get the transmission off....they just try to do as much as they can at once while they're in there.
 

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yea, If the tranny comes off, definitely consider doing the clutch kit and crank seal, just because it's not the easiest thing to get at
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't think you guys understand what I'm asking. I know it's pretty much given to do the clutch while you're "in there". What I want to know is, is there any reason to go with a high-performance clutch, ie "stage 2" or something, over the Exedy stock replacement.
 

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You don't have enough power to break free of the stock clutch's grip unless you drop clutch. I don't see why you would need a high performance clutch on a stock performance engine. -only my opinion

OEM clutches will outlast any high performance given the job required of it is within stock parameters or so.
 

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I went with a performance clutch mostly because I wanted to future-proof my car. Just in case I ever go crazy and add a turbo or something. I don't know about a performance clutch not lasting as long as an oem clutch though. Just go with a kevlar clutch and you won't have to worry about it for a long time. Both Action and Spec make awesome products for a great price.
 

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When I did my D16Z6 swap, I had my flywheel lightened to 12 pounds. I think Lightening, balancing and resurfacing cost aroud $130. Im also using an AutoZone lifetime warranty clutch, and it holds fine.
 

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Sorry for my overzealous reply earlier.
OK from what I have read now my response is this:No it is not necessary to HAVE to put in a "high performance" clutch.
If you plan on staying stock then the OEM exedy will do just fine.
Now in the future if you get the "Tim allen" sickness and want more power then I would suggest a mild upgrade to the clutch and flywheel.
Hope that helps with a decision.
 
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