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· Registered
375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i'm almost 100% sure i'm going to go all motor ls-vtec. so here is the list of everything going into it let me know if i'm missing anything (anything i want a 100% list of everthing i need including the swap parts) oh and i'm wondering if i need to bore and sleeve if i want to make upwards of 230 hp.

b18 block
crank balanced knife edged
pct (ctr) piston
eagle H beam rods
(i dont' know what brand) heavy duty rod bolts
(i don't know what type of HG) high compression head gasket
arp head studs
golden eagle oil feed kit
B16a head
possibly buddy club spec V cams
" " valves
valve guides
5 angle valve grind
ITR intake manifold
Hondata intake manifold gasket

ITR oil pump
ITR timing belt
ITR water pump

obd1 b16 ecu
obd1 tune (don't know what to use)

Dc-sports header
invidia cat back
ngk spark plugs

b16 lsd cable tranny
exedy organic clutch
fidanza lightweight fly wheel

motor mounts
half shaft

· Registered
375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hopefully theyr'e ok maybe i didn't pay attention to what he said. going to pick them up tomorow the next step is to buy all the parts for my bottom end.
do you guys think i should sleeve my block to +84 mm and find some different high compression pistons. or just leave stock bore and sleeve.

acl rod bearings
eagle h beam rods maybe I beams instead not sure yet. (opinions please)
high comp pistons
arp rod bolts
ls 2 layer headgasket
balance blueprint bottom end
arp headstuds.

what do you think so far any opinions? maybe other things i'm missing.

· Registered
916 Posts
If you're going N/A, the most power you'll ever see out of it is maybe 250WHP. The Stock bottom end can easily handle that, so I wouln't worry about aftermarket rods. I'd definately pick up those CTR pistons off Beyond, let me know when you have money and I'll get you the guys info.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong about N/A power though, was never a big fan. :wink:

· Administrator
16,557 Posts
I think 250 at the wheels is a bit optimistic for an all motor B-series. It would require every trick in the book, and no expense spared. It's certainly enough to hit 12's though.

I've seen all motor B16's put down 200whp, which is roughly 240hp at the crank. Extracted, that's 150hp/liter. If you apply that to a 2.0L block, which is what you would have with an 84mm bore and an LS crank, you could theoretically achieve 300hp. That would be just enough to put down 250 at the wheels. The B16's do it by spinning to 9000 rpm though, and with an 84mm bore you have thinner sleeves to handle that much pressure and piston speed. It's also easier to get a higher specific output from smaller engines.

I think a K block could make it easier. I've seen an all-motor K20A in an EG put down 229 whp on stock internals.

· Registered
27 Posts
time for me to chime in since ive been on this path before.

heres my old setup

95 b18b block
91 b16a xsi head
CTR pistons
CTR cams
Pr3 ecu

thats it.

183whp/136ftlbs untuned. If I wouldve gotten it tuned it wouldve been about 190whp-200whp.
my point. as long as you have a good builder there is no need to spend all this money on fancy internals and crazy cams. I would rev mine to 8200rpms all day long. I ran the motor for a year and a half and then sold it. it still runnin to this day :) just do a basic setup. I would do it with b16 pistons since mine was at about 12.5 compression with the CTR pistons.

you will spend about $10000 if not more if youre trying to make much over 220whp btw. with this money I would just put forged rods and pistons on a b18b and boost it. I boosted my stock b18b. spent about $5000 on everything including the motor, exhaust system and tuning. im making 263whp on a very safe tune and will go to 300whp in about a week. I used to be hardcore all motor but then realized you can only go so far in it. plus I got tired of getting beat on by turbo cars.
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