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I used a Y8 head, I think it's a better choice. Compression is higher, but with your stock pistons, it's not going to be crazy, you can run fine on pump gas. In general, the Y8 is newer too, and is going to create more power. I agree about converting to OBD1, you can run the Y8 head on a P28, I'm doing it now, and other than plugs, the OBD1 and OBD2 distributors are the same. You'll need to use a conversion or repin the plug anyway. There's no need to change injectors or get a FPR, unless you want to do more mods. You'll need a Y8 dizzy if you go OBD1 as well. If you really want to use the PM6 or AFC, you can keep your A6 dizzy and it will bolt right up, but I would seriously recommend converting to OBD1 and doing it right. You'll also want to get a 4 wire O2 sensor.
If you're ready to start let me know, I just did a Y8 mini-me. I'll have my write up posted soon, I need to get some pics too.
 

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jmart said:
I think its really about the same cost to go obd0 with a vfac or whatever, ot to go obd1. All you need for obd1 is an ecu, a dizzy, and a convertion harness. You can easily get all that for $300, and thats about what you'll pay for the apexi unit as well. Plus then you already have obd1, so when you want to datalog and remap/chip the ecu, you're already a step ahead.
But I'm biased because i'm currently gathering the last of the parts I need to do a y8/obd1 swap.
That's right. $300 with a new/reman dizzy too. I got my ECU from a yard, with the wires for a conversion harness I made, for 50 bucks. If you do go the Apexi route, you will be unhappy with it eventually, not to mention it's really not the best way to activate VTEC.
For the head studs, get the ones to match the block. I believe all D series studs are the same, except the y8 block, which has shallower threads.
 
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