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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally finished my A6/Y8 mini-me swap after being awake for over 48 hours. Now I have to set the timing. It ran smooth with the dizzy unbolted and held way back, so I need to adjust the timing belt. I used a z6 timing belt as everyone has said to use, it's very tight. How am I supposed to adjust the timing with such a tight belt? Also, I haven't put the hood on yet, but will it close without rubbing? It looks pretty close. I'll have details of the whole thing later, I need a nap, and then I'm going to take care of this and enjoy my new motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok coool, itlooks really close, the Y8 head is a bit taller than the A6 head. I can't move the damn belt! It's very tight, and with the tension taken out it's just a little short of being able to move a tooth over. I think I'm going to remove the crank pulley and slide the whole belt off and on again from the side, that's how I got it on. Kind of a pain but I don't know what else to do.
 

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downest said:
Ok coool, itlooks really close, the Y8 head is a bit taller than the A6 head. I can't move the damn belt! It's very tight, and with the tension taken out it's just a little short of being able to move a tooth over. I think I'm going to remove the crank pulley and slide the whole belt off and on again from the side, that's how I got it on. Kind of a pain but I don't know what else to do.
Did you rotate the engine to loosen up the belt? I just did mine on my B16. Its very tight but was able to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got it today, I have to put a lot more pressure on the tensioner, I thought I had it down all the way. Still, it's pretty hard to move. Yes, I loosened it with the pulley, I had to. I haven't put the hood on but I'm still worried about clearance, especially with the plug wires installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't think it's much bigger, if at all, than a Z6. It's definitely bigger than the A6 head, and when I look across the top level with the sides it's very close, it looks like at least the plug wires are going to rub.

I should just get the damn thing on there and see.
 

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I cut off like a half inch off the bolt hole boss between the oil cap and the front right valve cover bolt, it was rubbing the insulation.
Other than that no problem.
 

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i took out my tensioner pulley spring. the tensioner runs all the way to the one side of the slot. i just pushed back on the tensioner before i bolted it back down. it makes it a lot easier to put the belt back on (i had to do this many times.)

i also had the car running with the distributor all the way advanced, like way advanced with the bolts out. i finally timed the cam "right". when you put the belt back on it's easiest, for me anyway, to put it over the idle gear last.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I still haven't put the hood back on...

But today someone commented that the timing belt is really close to the motor mount. Dren, do you have that problem as well? I'm worried the teeth are going to catch on it or something. Also the belt seems to want to move right up against the head, is that normal? I was thinking I could take out that section of motor mount maybe, there are 3 attachment points on there, I'm not sure they're all needed, but let me know if it's a really bad idea. The HF stef got didn't have any bolts holding the front mount to the tranny and it ran fine!
 

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yeah, my belt sorta looks like it is slapping the motor mount at idle. i filled my motor mounts with polyeurethane so the motor shakes more at idle and so does the rest of the car, renders mirrors almost useless! somewhat.

but anyway yeah it sounded like the belt was smacking the mount. i am keeping an eye on this for now. i may need to take the mount off and grind it down. it doesn't seem to have this problem when you get on the throttle. the belt tensioner doesn't really fix the problem at all because of the direction of rotation of the motor.
 
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