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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the valves all adjusted again, checked twice this time. No more ticks or super loud intake (half lie... the intake is pretty damn loud). Anyway, the engine is stumbling just a bit, but I think some of that is air in the coolant. So anyway, I drove it around campus just a little, and it won't rev past 4000 RPM. It definitely feels and smells like it's running a bit rich, but it stops pretty abruptly around 4000. Anything I could check?
I also figured out the timing belt problem, I didn't install the washers on the crank pulley. The new block didn't have them, and I only took the large crank pulley off my old one, didn't even think about the washers. I was going to install them tonight but the compressor at the shop broke, I'm going to another place I know in the morning to have someone use an impact gun to remove the bolt so I can fix it.
 

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While i am not entirly certian on the history of this swap I have had simalier problems several times....

any codes.... code 4 crank angle would cause this..... also double check the timing... as far as how your belt is lined up... limp in mode will kick in somewhere around here making this happen...

is vtec engaging... ??? i guess this should not matter as it should still rev freely past 4000 with out the vtec lobes on but just wondering...

post more info and well try to help. .

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well my cam timing is advanced one tooth. I couldn't get the dizzy in a place where it would bolt up and the car would run, so someone suggested I move the cam gear/belt to help it, and it seemed to work. I'm going to try moving it back so the gear lines up again... would this cause it to be running rich? It feels like it's bogging down when it gets up near 4k, so I really do think it's the timing.
 

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sounds like the belt could be off a tooth, its suprising how crappy a car can run when the belt is off just slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The thing is, I had to adjust it so the cam advanced one tooth in order for it to run. If it's set right, the car will only run when I'm holding the dizzy a little bit counter clockwise. It doesn't bog then though. I fixed the timing belt tracking problem this morning, took the pulley off and reinstalled the washers, and I reset the cam timing while I had the large pulley off. I'm starting to think the Y7 dizzy isn't the same internally... the leg pattern is the same but it doesn't seem to fit right to let the car run. Still, though it's revving normally and stuff, it's running really rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I went back and advanced the cam one tooth again, and this time it seemed to be fine! It revved up normally (but went nearly to 8000 RPM... something is wrong) at idle and while driving it. I took it out for a spin around campus since everything seemed to be fine. It ran ok, but didn't seem to pull as hard as I remember the A6 (though, it has been about a month since I drove it). Anyway, after about 5 minutes, as I was about to make the last turn to the shop road, it died. I was coming down a slight hill and downshifted into second, and when I slowed down and stopped at a sign it felt weird, then just sort of died twenty feet later, and it wouldn't start. Walked up to the shop and got a wrench to loosen the dizzy, loosened it and found that it started with the timing even more advanced, what the hell?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just had the idea that it might be an oxygen sensor problem. I'm still using the 1-wire, as I've been told it's fine to do that. The sensor is now further back, since I have a DC header, behind the motor. Would that be a problem?
 

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downest said:
got a wrench to loosen the dizzy, loosened it and found that it started with the timing even more advanced, what the hell?
Keep in mind that 720 degrees of crank rotation only equals 360 of cam rotation. There are probably 30ish teeth on the cam sprocket. 360 degrees in a circle divided by 30 teeth equals 12 cam sprocket degrees. 12 cam sprocket degrees only equal 6 crank sprocket degrees. This means you can be 2 cam teeth off either way and the car will still start and run. If you were 2 teeth too far retarded to begin with then advanced the timing one tooth, you're still one tooth too retarded. This would explain why the car started easier when you loosened the dizzy and advanced the ignition timing even further.

Just so we're on the same page, which way (cw or ccw looking from the passenger side) did you turn the dizzy to advance it causing the car to start?

Also, which way (cw or ccw looking from the driver's side) did you rotate the cam sprocket to advance it one tooth?

Additional note: The only way you will know for sure how far advanced or retarded your ignition timing is is to get a hold of a timing light.
 

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CCW on cam sprocket and CCW on dizzy are both correct if you want to advance your timing. Worse comes to worst if you can't get a hold of a lower timing belt cover to confirm your timing, you can always stick a screwdriver down spark plug hole number 1 and find it's highest point. Then you will know where TDC is and you can get your cam gear at least in the general area. Another thing you can do to find out where the pointer on the lower timing belt cover should be pointing is: Look straight down at the crank pulley. About direct center is where the TDC mark should be when cyl #1 is at top dead center.

-Which now promts this question... How are you setting valve timing without a lower timing belt cover? I can do it because I've done it enough but it's sometimes hard for some people to even set base timing correctly let alone without a cover.

What do I think about the o2s?

Elsewhere on the forums I wrote:
You sorta describe what a lazy oxygen sensor does. In first gear you have to feather the clutch more to get the car going so it's not as noticeable. In other upshifts, the clutch is pressed and depressed in a split second. When you let off the gas and get on it again, there's a big change in what the o2s will read in that transition. If the sensor is lazy or slow to respond, you get a short bog at the beginning of the gear you just shifted into because the ECU doesn't know what's going on yet.
If a lazy o2s can cause that, I'm sure a missing o2s can do some other things as well. Your ECU as of right now has no idea what's coming out the exhaust. The engine can't possibly run right.

Disclaimer: I am not a professional or expert by any means. I am an enthusiast just like you and most everybody else here. What I advise is only what I've either experienced/experimented or arrived at by what I think makes sense to me. Take it for what it's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got a new 4 wire O2 sensor and wired it up right last night, I also got a timing cover. I never had a problem timing the A6 without it though... there is also a mark on the smaller crank pulley and on the block for TDC.
 

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Oh good. I'm not the only one having problems right now. But check this out, I have two O2 sensors, side by side, between the acutal exhaust manifold and engine block. I have to drop the exhaust just to get to the things!! I've never seen them side by side before.

PS Car is running real $hitty. Thought it was IACV, but I may have more than one problem I'm contending with. I'd like to get my hands around the neck of the guy that sold me this thing.
 

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Well, as far as my problem goes (sorry to jack the thread), we've come to a conclusion. This theory will be verified next weekend.

I am led to believe that I have a cracked exhaust manifold.

This would cause the sucking of more air, the O2 sensor reading lean, and throwing more fuel into the mix, and messing up my o2 sensors.

It's coming off the car next weekend and I should be able to tell you if this is it or not. One more mystery hopefully solved.
 

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Downest: Just to make sure all bases are covered, did you have to screw with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) at all during your buildup? If you removed it, replaced it, or even unscrewed it, you'll likely need to reset that before the car will run correctly. Just something to throw into the mix and think about...

Mike
 
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