motor swap suggestions ?
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Installed by someone else? A B16 long block, tranny, and ecu will cost you $1300-1500 shipped, mounts and linkage are roughly $500 after that (for good mounts, i.e. Hasport). Little things can cost a bit more, but thats basically all you need.Capuchin said:i;m sorry but i have to disagre with that statement. i was going to do the same swap in my 89 rex Si(before i recked itjfrolang said:) and it was going to cost me close to the 5 grand range.
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Good info. When I did my B swap I had, about 2k in it. That 5K claim is ludacris.lessonsinspeed said:Installed by someone else? A B16 long block, tranny, and ecu will cost you $1300-1500 shipped, mounts and linkage are roughly $500 after that (for good mounts, i.e. Hasport). Little things can cost a bit more, but thats basically all you need.Capuchin said:i;m sorry but i have to disagre with that statement. i was going to do the same swap in my 89 rex Si(before i recked itjfrolang said:
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It took 1600 total for me to drop a ZC into my car. That is counting all fluids, tools we broke and replaced, tools rented (hoist, 40), front brakes (180ish), axle, engine (800), distributor (125), ecu (75), header (125), clutch (160 b/c it was shipped twice... found out the hard way my car had gotten a newer engine/flywheel), hoses, belts, and a couple cases of degreasers.
It could have been done cheaper, had the engine come with everything it needed.. ie undamaged sensors, distributor, exhaust manifold... I could have also kept the brakes that were in the car, but someone <do do dooo> hit the petal when they were off the rotors, causing the pistons to pop out of the caliper, and destroy the seals in the process
It could have been done cheaper, had the engine come with everything it needed.. ie undamaged sensors, distributor, exhaust manifold... I could have also kept the brakes that were in the car, but someone <do do dooo> hit the petal when they were off the rotors, causing the pistons to pop out of the caliper, and destroy the seals in the process
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You can install a B16 for close to 2k, if you do it all yourself and assume that nothing on it needs to be replaced. Will you be comfortable with the clutch and axles that came with it for example?
Capuchin, I'm not sure why you're disagreeing, I'm saying the same thing. It's more expensive than 2k. If you're paying close to 5k for the engine/trans etc., it better be a B16B.
Capuchin, I'm not sure why you're disagreeing, I'm saying the same thing. It's more expensive than 2k. If you're paying close to 5k for the engine/trans etc., it better be a B16B.
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Love these vague questions.!damage! said:
Need more info such as:
What are plans for the car?
Budget?
Who will be installing it?
Basically, what do you want out of the car?
Looking for DD, track car, auto-x etc...???
But based so far on ths vague question, i would say if you are going to have someone else install it, do a Zc, (SOHC or DOHC), a d16z6, d16y8 or JDM d15b vtec. Those can all be had and installed for under 2k AND you can use your stock transmission and axles.
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Personally I wouldn't waste the money on a B16, when you could build a ZC or a SOHC up a little for a lot less money, and have the same power. You could also get an LS cheap too.
What's wrong with the A6 you have in there now? Is it dying, or just not enough for you?
What's wrong with the A6 you have in there now? Is it dying, or just not enough for you?
theres actually nothing in it at the moment, just a clean engine bay waiting for something else.
I made it vague because im still up in the air with what I want to do to it
I don't want to go over the top with it, just something practical
(motor, wheels and tires, suspension, stereo, etc)
I can go over 2k, I was just playing it safe
I made it vague because im still up in the air with what I want to do to it
I don't want to go over the top with it, just something practical
(motor, wheels and tires, suspension, stereo, etc)
I can go over 2k, I was just playing it safe
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IF you can go over 2k I reccomend a K20A. IT will run you about 10k, but it is well worth it, forget the stereo, and just buy new tires for your stock wheels for now.!damage! said:
Building a D I really don't advise, sorry Downest. I would rather have a B and have some room to expand later on. Lets face it no matter how much power you have, you will always want more.
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I think it depends what you're doing. Once you get up around 200whp you need to invest in suspension and such to make it safe and put the power down. Don't get me wrong, I think a K20 swap is awesome, but I wouldn't do it on my only car because it would be hard to handle in autocross. Hell, Matt's GSR is a little overpowered for it! If you're just daily driving it, you won't have the same issues, but then again, do you need that much power, especially in a light FWD car?
I suggested the D because for 2k he could have a pretty killer D series setup that will make the B16 look like crap, I also assumed he already had an a6 in there, so he could bypass buying a bunch of stuff with that. I've spent under $1000 on my D, and it's not like I'm laying down clouds of tire smoke, but it's pretty quick. If budget isn't a concern get a B, but at least get a 1.8.
If you want to go insanely fast, get a motorcycle, the slowest bikes on the road will leave a K20 standing still.
I suggested the D because for 2k he could have a pretty killer D series setup that will make the B16 look like crap, I also assumed he already had an a6 in there, so he could bypass buying a bunch of stuff with that. I've spent under $1000 on my D, and it's not like I'm laying down clouds of tire smoke, but it's pretty quick. If budget isn't a concern get a B, but at least get a 1.8.
If you want to go insanely fast, get a motorcycle, the slowest bikes on the road will leave a K20 standing still.
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That is why being vague and leaving the question open isn't really going to be very helpful.!damage! said:
YOU need to figure out what you want to do with the car and what you expect to get out of it before you decide on a motor.
Then find out what you need for the swap.
Then start doing the math/budget and pricing out of stuff.
Lots o' motors here @ www.hmotorsonline.com
IMHO, the b16 IS overated, overhyped and undertorqued.
For the price of a b16 swap, you can get a nice b18b, which leaves that open for boost later on down the road if you choose.
Or you can do a d series or Zc swap. Those will more or less drop in and bolt right up to the car.
Do some more reasearch, figure out what you want, then decide.
Measure 10x, cut once.
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I'm more or less in downest's camp on this one... at least regarding the b16a. If you are just starting out on this crx, I would vote for a d16a6 or z6 or y8. my reasoning is that there are about 3 major areas that you want to put money into to really make your car fun to drive:
a) powertrain
b) suspension
c) brakes
I think to start out with you can get a d for cheap. Upgrade the cam, the intake, the exhaust. Then you still have money left over to blow on a solid spring damper combo, maybe coilovers, and chassis stuff like strut bars and tie bars and sway bars. Then you can blow more of the money you saved on bigger brakes. Then bam, you've got a zippy car thats still light and scoots pretty good, handles like its on rails and stops on a dime. Much more fun that straight line speed.
a) powertrain
b) suspension
c) brakes
I think to start out with you can get a d for cheap. Upgrade the cam, the intake, the exhaust. Then you still have money left over to blow on a solid spring damper combo, maybe coilovers, and chassis stuff like strut bars and tie bars and sway bars. Then you can blow more of the money you saved on bigger brakes. Then bam, you've got a zippy car thats still light and scoots pretty good, handles like its on rails and stops on a dime. Much more fun that straight line speed.
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