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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Front Cross Member
Sway Bar
Front Left Lower Control Arm
Spindle and strut complete with bearing
Left Axle
Torsion Bar

Are these pieces the same on an SI Civic as they are on an SI Crx?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok let me go a step further. Should i pay a shop 800 dollars to change these parts, or should i go ahead and change them myself. I would rather invest that $ into tools!
 

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Do it yourself! If you know someone with a compressor and an impact gun you'll be better off, but you can do it by hand fine, it will just take longer and require more swearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tom can you approximate roughly how long this would take an absolute noob... I'm no retard, but i am fresh to this kinda stuff. Would i require a hoist (i can't see why, but i could imagine life would be much more pleasant)

I'm actually considering grabbing a compressor and impact gun, considering it'd be cheaper than paying the labour :lol:

Junkyard quoted me 500+ in parts alone... hence the reason i was curious about getting parts from a civic. Its HARD to find CRX parts around here, but civic parts are so abundant, if anything i could grab a scrapped civic and just strip the crap i require. Can someone please help me confirm if the parts are the same?

Front Cross Member
Sway Bar
Front Left Lower Control Arm
Spindle and strut complete with bearing
Left Axle
Torsion Bar

ALSO! Will a Civic fender work on a crx!!?!??!
 

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You don't need a hoist, but you definitely want 4 jack stands, it's a lot easier to fit stuff like the sway bar with the car not on the suspension. I would say 4-5 hours, depending how stuck your bolts are. I would also get a new wheel bearing, don't reuse one from the yard.
 

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Do some part comparisons on www.hondaautomotiveparts.com If they have the same part numbers between the CRX and the Civic, then you're good to go. I'm pretty sure all of those parts are the same with the exception of the sway bar. Sway bars came in a few different diameters. You maybe want to check that out thoroughly.

Since you probably don't have all the tools, the first attempt at this is probably going to feel like a bit of a gong show as you go back and forth to the auto parts store to pickup the tools you need.

First thing you need is a factory service manual. It has diagrams and all the nut and bolt torque values. If you need descriptive help on dismantling and reassembling the suspension, let us know. I've completely ripped apart and reassembled the front suspension on several 88-91 CRX's.

You will also need:

-Cotter pins for the castle nuts on the balljoints
-Anti-seize compound
-2 pickle forks for separating balljoints (one for lower balljoint, the other for tie rod end balljoint)
-Grease for the pickle forks so you don't tear the balljoint boots. If you do tear them, just replace them and pack them with new grease.
-Rust penetrating spray for all the stubborn bolts. (you may also need a small propane torch if they still won't come loose. Be careful not to torch your rubber bushings though!)
-32mm or 1 1/4" socket for the axle nut.
-Long breaker bar for the axle nut. (I use a 24" breaker bar with a piece of pipe over the handle to extend it to 36")
-A pin punch and hammer to knock out/pound in the little tab on the axle nut. Depending on the condition of the axle nut, you may wish to replace it.
 

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First off, let's figure out what YEAR the car in question is. Reason I ask is that you mention a torsion bar, which leads me to believe you're talking about an '84-'87 (first-generation) CRX/3rd-generation Civic.

On an '88-'91 Civic (hatchback) or CRX, talking Si-to-Si, all those parts mentioned (except the torsion bar) *should* be interchangeable, to the best of my knowledge.

The Civic fenders won't easily swap onto a CRX. Different corner-light shapes, and the bumper cutouts are different. The Civic had an extra little valance panel above the bumper that wraps around into the fender, where the CRX doesn't have it. I've *seen* people use Civic fenders on CRXs, but it looks pretty badly done, and the fit isn't there.

If you're talking about a first-generation CRX, we'll have to get into more detail. I think most of the mechanical bits will swap, but the torsion bars are different lengths, if memory serves, and again the fenders are lots different between the two cars.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't own a first gen, its a 1991 SI. Sorry for not mentioning it earlier.

Pictures:

The accident


Sway bar touching axle


Torsion bar crack


Axle touching (rear crossmember?)

Another one


And finally...
Good control arm


Bad control arm
 

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radius rod, not torsion bar

all of the parts are interchangeable, but make sure to resue the brakes of your si spindle, as the claipers between the civic hatch and crx are different.

the other 5 parts listed are completely interchangeable.

[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cool, my mech. buddy called it a torsion bar. Thanks for letting me know.

Thats perfect, Do you think i'd need to change my rear cross member as well (it looks bent to me....)?

Been really looking into doing a motor swap, would this be prime time?

About tools... What kinda compressor/airgun should i look into purchasing???, also what other necessities should i look into purchasing (as i am starting with literally nothing)?. This is honestly just for work on my own cars, nothing professional (cheap really would be the keyword here)...

Space IS an issue, so the smaller the compressor, the better :D...

let me know guys, i'm planning on starting fixing this throughout next week, and i could really use alll the help i can get :shock:
 

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coldtotouch,
your wreck looks similar to mine. I would suggest checking the frame for straightness before you start replacing parts. I didn't bend any of the suspension components nearly as badly as you did, but my whole front end was pushed to the right something like a 1/2 inch. Better to know in the beginning rather than in the end. Regardless, good luck with it, and let us know what you decide and how it goes.[/img]
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
jmart said:
coldtotouch,
your wreck looks similar to mine. I would suggest checking the frame for straightness before you start replacing parts. I didn't bend any of the suspension components nearly as badly as you did, but my whole front end was pushed to the right something like a 1/2 inch. Better to know in the beginning rather than in the end. Regardless, good luck with it, and let us know what you decide and how it goes.[/img]
Thanks dude! yea i took it to a shop and got it checked out, the rear crossmember seemed to have moved 1/4 inch, but the frame apparently didn't shift.

IF the frame did shift, i know a shop locally that has a frame straightener, and that will be my solution to that problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have found a 1990 Civic CX for 500 bucks that has all the pieces i would require. He wants 500 for it, when my buddies shop called the junkyard they quoted about $540 for all the pieces. So i figure its a better deal (plus i get new tires, and some other fresh parts)...

goin to check it out tonight!
 

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Ouch man... I had no idea it was that bad. That LCA is bend in a "U" shape. Make sure you get the frame checked and the mounting points for all the suspension pieces checked for straightness. Otherwise, bolting on the new parts could be very frustrating...especially if it knocks your caster/camber off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
stickershop said:
Ouch man... I had no idea it was that bad. That LCA is bend in a "U" shape. Make sure you get the frame checked and the mounting points for all the suspension pieces checked for straightness. Otherwise, bolting on the new parts could be very frustrating...especially if it knocks your caster/camber off.
I definatly feel i need to get a decent body shop to check this out. My buddy who is a mech. looked at it and the owner of his shop looked at it aswell, he stated he didn't see the frame shift at all, though now i definatly feel i want to double check his analysis...

The mounting points are my real concern.........
 

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Ya, double check that frame. I've been working on cars for years, and I'm a mechanical engineer, so after my accident I pulled some strings and made some measurements and thought that my frame was straight enough. But when I started putting it back together it because obvious that it was not. My (cheaper) solution was to buy a rust free donor chassis and swap everything over. But if you can get a frame shop to check it for you, I'd do that.
 

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2 WORDS...

MONEY-PIT.

Sorry to say.

If you wanna restore these cars, just take them apart to the last bolt, and
restore it.

Powdercoat all the suspension parts, and replace anything that is no good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Robb said:
2 WORDS...

MONEY-PIT.

Sorry to say.

If you wanna restore these cars, just take them apart to the last bolt, and
restore it.


Powdercoat all the suspension parts, and replace anything that is no good.
Easier said than done bud...
 
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