New Cams
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Pretty simple with the B series (I assume you are asking in relation to the other thread). With a D you have to pull the whole rocker/LMA setup out and spill oil everywhere.
Correct me if I'm wrong, I haven't really done anything with a B series VTEC head, just the Ds and B series LS heads.
Set the engine to TDC
Pull the upper timing cover off and mark the timing belt on the gears
loosen the cam gear bolts while the cams are in the motor
pull the valve cover
following the procedure in the manual (order), remove the caps that hold the cams in the head
remove cams + cam gears from the head
remove the gears from the ends of the cams and move them to the new ones
liberally apply the lube supplied with the cams to the cam journals and lobes on the cam itself
place the cams in the head at roughly TDC
bolt the caps back on, follwing manual order and torque specs
lock them in place at TDC using the holes in the caps, and tighten the bolts holding the gears to spec
re-install the timing belt on the cam gears, using the marks you made
re-install valve cover and timing cover
Break in:
Contrary to what I was told, there is no need to "break in" new camshafts, according to Crower. Crower also recommends using 20W-50 oil.
Correct me if I'm wrong, I haven't really done anything with a B series VTEC head, just the Ds and B series LS heads.
Set the engine to TDC
Pull the upper timing cover off and mark the timing belt on the gears
loosen the cam gear bolts while the cams are in the motor
pull the valve cover
following the procedure in the manual (order), remove the caps that hold the cams in the head
remove cams + cam gears from the head
remove the gears from the ends of the cams and move them to the new ones
liberally apply the lube supplied with the cams to the cam journals and lobes on the cam itself
place the cams in the head at roughly TDC
bolt the caps back on, follwing manual order and torque specs
lock them in place at TDC using the holes in the caps, and tighten the bolts holding the gears to spec
re-install the timing belt on the cam gears, using the marks you made
re-install valve cover and timing cover
Break in:
Contrary to what I was told, there is no need to "break in" new camshafts, according to Crower. Crower also recommends using 20W-50 oil.
I found an write up on changing cams on a b18, is it pretty much the same as changing it on a b16? http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/caminstall/cam.php
can someone also help me on choosing which cams to get, i'm looking for more low end torque cause i'm not going to drag, and probably going to stay na, i don't really knwo much about cars, still learning, so if you guys need to know anything else, like what i'm looking for, to help me out just ask me, thanks a bunch
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You really aren't going to make that much more torque no matter what you do, it's a B16.
I would definitely recommend Crower, I have their stage 2 NA cam in my Y8 head. It barely idled right on a stock map, and its rough at startup when it's cold out, but it definitely made a big difference. I have never heard anything bad about Crower.
I would definitely recommend Crower, I have their stage 2 NA cam in my Y8 head. It barely idled right on a stock map, and its rough at startup when it's cold out, but it definitely made a big difference. I have never heard anything bad about Crower.
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8 Posts
crower is the company that had problems with their camshafts breaking in half,,i personally have used them though with no problems..
I would recommend the stage1 crower, skunk2's or some oe civic type-r
also if you're looking for lowend tq you should sell the b16 and get a ls motor not trying to sound like an asshole but that b16 just wasnt built for low-end anything..doesnt even start moving till 6krevs....ls motor starts at like 2500revs.
I would recommend the stage1 crower, skunk2's or some oe civic type-r
also if you're looking for lowend tq you should sell the b16 and get a ls motor not trying to sound like an asshole but that b16 just wasnt built for low-end anything..doesnt even start moving till 6krevs....ls motor starts at like 2500revs.
If you are planning on revving more then 8000rpm on a LS vtec, good look. To safely do it on a daily it needs rods for sure. LS rods are tiny and are very weak at high RPM. I was going to do an LSVTEC until I read to much information limiting the revving capability. I just went and got a GSR block complete for 600$ instead. Using my B16 head, it's a cheap fix for a torqueless B16.mrspeaker1 said:
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8 Posts
ludesrv it isnt that the rods are weak,,its that the bolts stretch at high revs 8200+..So a set of arp bolts would fix that right up..Also from tearing apart these motors the b16a rods seem to be the bulkiest...
but i was reffering to a straight ls motor cause this guy wants low-end power..
but i was reffering to a straight ls motor cause this guy wants low-end power..
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2,474 Posts
I would get a set of Type R cams. They work very well and very nice on the street at low cost.
Only thing I would add to the write up, is be VERY carful putting on the cam caps. They can break. Just go very slow with the tightening down initially. After that it's very easy.
Only thing I would add to the write up, is be VERY carful putting on the cam caps. They can break. Just go very slow with the tightening down initially. After that it's very easy.
can someone recommend which type of camshaft i should get from buddy club for my b16 http://www.buddyclub.us/buddyclub/top_m.html
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