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The shop that installed my themostat said I will need new axles because the boots are torn.

If the boots are torn, can't I just replace the boots?

If so where do you get them and if not what is the going rate to have the axles replaced?

Is that something a DYI'er can do or is it more of a shop type work, to replace the front axles.

TIA

Bob
 

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I think you are better off just replacing the whole front axle on that side if the cv joint rubber is broken. I replaced mine myself. Besides regular shop tools you will need a ball joint remover. You can sometimes rent them, but the tool isnt too expensive. I would recommend you get a manual if you think you want to tackle it.
 

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It depends on your mevhanical ability. . . I think it is an easy job. . . however some would say that it is hard or something that they do not want to tackle on there own. .. You do not need any special tools. . . other than a large axle socket to take the axle nut off. . .. . the ball joint can be popped free with a quick blow of a hammer on the side of the LCA ( easiest way by far unless it is really siezed) ComposiMo stated the other day that he can do one in under a minute. . with the car in the air and the wheel off. . . and after banging some out in the garage on the lift I would have to agree with him. . . . . but might be more than a greenhorn wants to tackle. . .

basically you are going to take your center cap off and break your axle nut loose with the car on the ground. and crack the lugs. . then jack upthe car and support it. . . might want to take off the brake caliper. . . . some do some dont choice is yours. . .. dont really have to. . . just be careful of its rubber line. . . finish taking off your axle nut. . and then take the 17mm bolt off of the lower control arm that coonects it to the bottom of the shock. . take the 17mm nut off of the lower ball joint after removing the cotter key. . and crack the side of the LCA with a hammer while prying down on the lca. . .swing the spindle / hub assy out of the way and remove the front of the axle from the hub assy.. . . not losing the washer. . . remove axle from transmission. . . .might have to twist and pry a little on the back side to unseat the lock ring. . .but once you know how it works. . .they are easy to pop out. . . .

swear at me for not telling you to have a drain pan under the tranny just in case. . . depending on how the car is jacked up you may or may not lose fluid out of the tranny. . . pry down on the LCa and sneak the axle out. . . .. . and then reverse procedure to install .. . . . now would be a good time to replace the tranny axle seal. . .

and agreed you shoudl replace the whole axle. . . . they are cheap enuff now that rebuilding the joint or replacing the boot. . . or worse yet using one of those split boot repair kits. . .is just foolish. . .

if the grease got out. . . . water and dirt got in . . . .and the clicking is only a few miles away. . .

Chris
 

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Just backing up what those before me already said: Get rebuilt axles. Paying a shop to replace the boots cost more than the entire axle itself because of the labor required to do it. Of course to do it yourself it'd only cost you 12 bucks a boot and your time. I wouldn't attempt it though as there are things that someone who already knows how to do it has to show you or you can really screw some things up and create quite a mess.

-Heu
 

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SETI20 said:
Gentlemen, the boot is just a piece of rubber held on by an overgrown zip-tie.

The joint will not have to come off. Not with the boots I'm using anyway.
You have to be talking about the magnificent " split boot wonder repair kit" i might use one of those to get me home if i tore one out on a trip but it is not a wise choice. .. The overgrown zip ties are actually stainless steel bands.. . you need to properly crimp them with crimping pliers. . .they usually come pre made but you can make your own with band it band and clamps. . . in order to put a replacement boot on you will have to separate the axle joint somehow. the grease is flinging around in there hundreds of times per minute. ..and needs a strong seal on the boot to avoid coming out.. the split boots are a crap shoot. . . . . or mabye i shoudnt have used the word shoot. . . .just plain crap.. . . .I have replaced many many axles that people have tried to doctor up with a fresh grease pack and a split boot. . . . some of them used to be blue. . . some black. . . . they should have made them yellow so you could spot them. . . when you were looking easier. . .and know that you would need to put an axle in the car. . . .

plus even with a regualr replacment boot. . . the extra time and complexity of tearing apart the axle to install it would not be worth it. . .

i can remember when a replacment axle was like 400 dollars and replacing a joint or boot was a good idea. . . ( that was was when these split boots came on the market big ) its just not worth it. . . .LAPS has them for a crx for 59 bux with exchange. . .. .
cant go wrong there. .
 
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