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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well guys it was time to get my CRX low to the ground. I felt like before i was driving a monster truck ,but not being able to drive over cars. lol. Anyways ive got my mind of this set of full adjustable coilovers. Want to know if anyone has use these before or heard anything about them.Lets hear some feed back on what kind of suspension you guys all have for the nices ride and the cleanest drop.

http://picperformance.com/store/scripts ... roduct=193
 

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I haven't heard about PIC shocks, although its nice that they provide you with a data sheets for the shock rates. For that price range, Omnipowers are a safe bet, but expect a stiff ride. I have Tein SS's on my car now, and love them. Ride on them is not plush, but you can adjust them to dial out some of the harshness. If you're looking for more a mild drop, the Tein S-Tech springs are nice. The height isn't slammed, but its a nice, clean drop (1.5").
 

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I agree lessonsinspeed, unless you are willing to pay a little more for their coilovers with adjustable damping, I would just stick with the Omnipowers. The Omni's are not only cheaper, but they are much more popular. Personally I've never heard of PIC Performance but that doesn't mean they don't make a great product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
joshman said:
I agree lessonsinspeed, unless you are willing to pay a little more for their coilovers with adjustable damping, I would just stick with the Omnipowers. The Omni's are not only cheaper, but they are much more popular. Personally I've never heard of PIC Performance but that doesn't mean they don't make a great product.
The price for Omnis are more up in Canada. Their about 924.99 for the set. The reason why im going with the other set up is because the price is better and also ive heard some good things about them. My friend has them on his 92 build B16 turbo Hatch back. The rides nice as well,but yet im not hating on Omnis just havn't been in a car with them and too much money for me. Unless someone knows where i could get a set of them at a good deal.
 

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Tr0n said:
The price for Omnis are more up in Canada. Their about 924.99 for the set. The reason why im going with the other set up is because the price is better and also ive heard some good things about them. My friend has them on his 92 build B16 turbo Hatch back. The rides nice as well,but yet im not hating on Omnis just havn't been in a car with them and too much money for me. Unless someone knows where i could get a set of them at a good deal.
I assumed that $750 was U.S... in which case they'd be the same. Ground Controls and shocks are another possibility, but will run the same price as the Omnis (but you do get custom rates for a bit more and the adjustibilty). If you've had experience with the PICs yourself, then they seem like a good bet. Suspension is a lot about personal preference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
lessonsinspeed said:
Tr0n said:
The price for Omnis are more up in Canada. Their about 924.99 for the set. The reason why im going with the other set up is because the price is better and also ive heard some good things about them. My friend has them on his 92 build B16 turbo Hatch back. The rides nice as well,but yet im not hating on Omnis just havn't been in a car with them and too much money for me. Unless someone knows where i could get a set of them at a good deal.
I assumed that $750 was U.S... in which case they'd be the same. Ground Controls and shocks are another possibility, but will run the same price as the Omnis (but you do get custom rates for a bit more and the adjustibilty). If you've had experience with the PICs yourself, then they seem like a good bet. Suspension is a lot about personal preference.
750 is CND money
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Robb said:
I have the 12k front and 14k rear.
best money Ive spent in a long time !

ps: my old crx is on their website..LoL
So you happen to have a set of these eh. Nice to hear,gotta ask you hows the ride with the 12K front and 14K in the back. Smooth ride or is it more of a tight bouncy ride. How does the Kf/KR work as in spring rate. Confused on the spring rate,could someone explain that to me :lol:
 

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The top hat does nothing. Removing the rubber bump-stop would have done the same. Looks nice tho, I have to admit.

I've heard good things about the quality of the set, and I'm serously considering getting a set myself.

The only concern to me is that the owner of the company has no technical background or knowledge. He basically had a set of Teins or koni's copied, and altered to his specifications.

The down side is that it's not a true "designed" product. But that's no different from 80% of competitors.
The up side, is that he picked quality parts to duplicate and had a decent manufacturer make them instead of some no-name taiwanese company compared to other so-called high-end brands.

His gamble seems to have paid off really well, and it's a solid product from what I've heard.
 

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heres teh shock body deal as far as i know,

the raised top hat on shocks designed to be used with them, allow you 2?mm of extra shcok body travel. Thats why you cant just use something like the GC tophats on just any shock, they are designed to be used with konis so the shock body can go up past the stock top point.

so if the PIC shock is designed right, it should be able to slide right up into that top hat. not sure if that is possible though.

regardless, to be lowered to teh point that the shock body has to be higher then the bottom of the upper strut mount is quite extreme, defintely over 3"

I dont know why there is always this confusion about how the extended top hats work, its really very simple. if the shock body itseld cant go past the bottom of the upper mount, you gain nothing by having them, you just change how much the piston is compressed at any given height.

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also, at right around 3.6" in teh front, the UCA maintains almost constant contact with the car itself. I was able to resolve this by modifying the chassis. At thi smaount of lowering I had constant problems with my upper ball joints and inner tie rods as well. not to mention accelerated axle wear.

at almsot 4" I had problems with oil pan, crossmember and header contact with the ground. Also, if you look at the first pic you may see some damage to my hood. people have asekd if it was caused by my extreme lowering experiment, but alas it was not.

here are some pics before i lowered the front the rest of the way. hte back was at my max drop. the back had its own issues that id be happy to describe.




here is the car lowered normally


and here it is at stock height


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Robb said:
SETI20 said:
The top hat does nothing. Removing the rubber bump-stop would have done the same. Looks nice tho, I have to admit.
Read before you speak.

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1683697

we went through this already.
I did read. And I took it up with several experts, and engineers.
It seems that you don't fully understand the technical function of what the top hat is supposed to do, like matt pointed out.
The top hats look good, but do just about as much as removing the bump stop. The shock is too wide to sit in the top hat, and the design does not allow for wider top hats to be used.

Seeing the amount of negative comment the manufacturer has received on this, I would be surprised if the next version would not have redesigned top hats.
 

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After reading all of this, im more frustrated than an amish electrician. Could someone explain this in english for me please?
 

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Actually, when applied to a stock length shock, those top hats DO have a purpose.... but for a setup like that, where you can adjust the height of the shock body in the fork, it means a bit less.

Shocks will ALWAYS function beter within a certain range of movement... i.e. if you SLAM your car, and the piston is at the bottom of the shock body, it won't perform nearly as well as it would if it was closer to the middle opf the shock body with proper oil above and below the piston.

SO, using the top hat allows you to raise the piston in the shock body by an inch or so, which is enough to allow the shock to operate in much more ideal circumstances.

I've seen this proven on a shock dyno on racing shocks, and had this discussion with the guys at Penske and Strange when i was working out the suspension on my race car... they HAD to know what the 'installed height' of the setup would be so that they could give the piston adequate clearance above and below by having the correct shaft length.

That top hat is a band-aid of course. You can send your Koni shocks in for instance, and have them shorten the shafts and bodies so the shocks are 'optimal' when the vehicle is lowered really far. This is usually what the guys who auto-cross and road race do.
 
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