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How's it shift through the gears with those aluminum shifter bushings? I put those in mine and had to opt back to the poly bushings as I practically had to force it on when I was bolting it together with the aluminum bushings
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,002 ·
Unfortunately, the CRX hasn't been on the road since installing the shifter bits. So I can't say yet how it feels.

I did finally wrap up the last few little hanging projects and now I can finally schedule a tune. Then I can start driving it again for the first time in about a year and a half! lol

Interesting feedback though. I'm super curious about how it will all feel. I'll try to keep this thread updated.
 

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Any update on the shifter bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,004 ·
Lol, funny timing. I was just thinking today about how I need to update this thread!

Unfortunately, I don't have much feedback on them yet though. I did get my tuning done back in April, and I took it out for one trip after that. But I ran into some other issues, and it's been sitting in the Garage since then. Hopefully I'll get my stuff worked out in the next month or 2, then I can really get a better idea for how the shifter bushings feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,005 ·
So where did I leave off.....
I finished up the rest of the Rywire PDM chassis harness to add in the 3rd brake light. And I finished wiring in the power windows. Not much to see there.

At this point, my battery had been on/off the trickle charger for the better part of a year and a half. It was no longer holding a charge. I'd get one decent start out of it at a time. In the past, I had been running the Braile B14115 for a while. I liked that it was tiny, and only 11 pounds. But it never really liked staying on the trickle charger and only getting proper use once every few weeks. It was getting expensive to replace every year, so I started using a knock-off from Batteries+. It performed about the same, but was certainly cheaper to replace!

Since I needed to get a new battery, I figured I'd change it up. I decided to go with a lithium-ion battery from Antigravity. It's the YTX 12-16 model, with 480 amps...and only 3.4 pounds! It had more power than any of my previous "small" batteries, yet clocked in at only a 3rd of the weight. And they claim that the lithium-ion batteries have a much...much longer lifespan. So far, it starts the car much more confidently.

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Having a new battery meant that I needed to come up with a new battery mount solution. Previously, I had a Braille battery box, mounted horizontally to a small wood platform in the spare tire well.
For this time around, I wanted to get a bit more custom. But I didn't want to have to rely on anyone to do any welding for me. I wanted something that I could just bolt together. So I sketched up an idea in AutoCAD and emailed my files to SendCutSend. Less than a week later, the parts showed up at my door.:

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The flat bits were what I had made at SendCutSend. Then I paired them up with a couple aluminum rods, tapped on either end. I added some Downstar hardware and a patch of neoprene to pad the battery/keep it in place. The result was this:
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And here is with the battery installed in it:
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And here it is, mounted in the passenger/rear...along with some freshly made wiring, to match what I did in the engine bay.
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Discussion Starter · #2,006 ·
Since I can't seem to leave anything alone on this car....I picked up an aluminum wiper cowl from SolKreations.
Overall, it was an ok fit. It took a slight amount of massaging to get it to sit mostly flush with the windshield. The area's near the hood hinges needed to be trimmed a bit to work with my billet hinges. The ends are a little funky. They could marry with the windshield molding a little nicer. But it's not a deal breaker.

Here is the cowl:
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You'll notice that it doesn't have provisions for wipers. It was not an issue for me, and I haven't run wipers in many years.

Since I had the oem cowl off, I figured it was a good time to clean/paint underneath it. So I cleaned it up, masked everything off, and gave it a coat of primer....followed by 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear:
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I gave the plastic cover a coating of plastidip, just to clean it up a bit too: (nevermind the intake filter. I was messing around.)
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And here is the aluminum wiper cowl installed. The hardware that came with it just wasn't going to cut it. So I got some black aluminum washers from Downstar, and mated them up with some black hex key bolts from the local hardware store. Much better!
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Discussion Starter · #2,007 ·
Next up was tuning. Through a friend of a friend, I was able to get hooked up with racing legend Miles Bautista to do my tuning.

I rented a truck and trailer from Uhaul. I had briefly considered towing it with my 4Runner...but it would have been maxing out the limits. Figured it was safer to just rent something. Here it is, all loaded up:
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My pit bull, watching to make sure everything is strapped down tight.
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On the dyno:
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We ran into a few issues that night (mostly from stupid things on my part (old fuel in the system, vacuum leak, loose bolts, etc.)), but he was able to get me to roughly 170hp, 120tq. He says that his dyno runs about 10% lower than most. So if you factor that in, then I'd be closer to 190hp, 130tq....which is pretty much on par with where I figured I might be with my internally stock ITR engine with bolt-ons. Driving it around his facility afterwards felt good. It was the first time I'd smashed the gas pedal in the CRX in like a year and a half! lol Then it was a matter of strapping if back down on the trailer for the journey back home after a long night.


Dyno graph:
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Discussion Starter · #2,008 · (Edited)
Now that tuning was done, I could finally remove my temporary valve cover with the cam gear cutout, and install my custom valve cover from Charlie Moua. I was shooting for the matte blue color from Volk. This was about as close as he could get. I'm super stoked with it.

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The color changes depending on the angle. From kind of a gray-ish color, to the more vibrant blue tones.

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The oem breather port was cut off and smoothed, and replaced by (2) -10an ports on the back side. As you may know, the back side of the valve cover is not baffled in it's stock form. So Charlie added baffles in front of each port, to prevent any excessive amount of oil from spilling into the lines. They're simple, but should be effective.

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And here it is with the coil-on-plug adapter plate installed:
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For now, I just have some "push-on" style connectors with "regular" hose running from those ports to my catch can (which also has 2 lines running into it from the back of the block. It's all a temporary setup until I can get a custom catch an fabricated. Then my hope is to get custom crimped hoses to match my radiator hoses. Here is the valve cover installed, along with the breather hoses to the catch can:
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Discussion Starter · #2,009 ·
The fancy new valve cover really made the rest of the engine bay look kinda shabby. I contacted Chasing J's, and got a couple titanium parts to dress it up a bit. Nothing crazy. I just picked up the oil cap, vtec solenoid cover & coil-on-plug adapter plate.
In these photos, the coil-on-plug adapter plate hadn't shown up yet. But you can see the oil cap and vtec solenoid cover. The solenoid cover kit came with the 3 titanium bolts as well.

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During the installation of the new valve cover, I also installed a new upper timing belt cover, along with the bolts and the seals that go around the driver-side engine mount.

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Discussion Starter · #2,010 ·
I find that most of the time when we have our hoods open, we only look down at the engine...not up at the hood. You should try it sometime! lol
You'll probably find, like I did, that the under-hood insulation is not in great shape.

As far as I know, there isn't much to be done about any disintegration that may be happening. But you can still freshen it up a little, using black fabric spray paint. I sprayed about 2-3 coats on mine, and it's looking much better than it used to. Unfortunately, I didn't take any "before" pictures. But here are the results of the fabric paint:

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While you've got the insulation removed (pay attention not to tear the insulation while you pry out the clips!), take the opportunity to clean the underside of the hood. I just used Simple Green and a sponge. Then a spray bottle of water to rinse it off. Make sure to cover the engine with a towel or tarp. The dirty dripping will make a mess otherwise! It's an easy job, that makes a big difference.

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Now that the CRX was tuned, driveable and clean....it was finally time to get it out on the road, to hit up my first Honda meet in over a couple years. Here is the CRX....ready to go!

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Discussion Starter · #2,011 ·
Back in April, OldSkoolHonda held a Honda meet down in San Diego. I was cool too meet up with the guys, since it had been so long since any of us had been to an event.

Obligatory gas station shot:
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Our group driving down to San Diego from Orange county: @JustJesus @ef_chris and myself
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This was our extended group once we all met up: @JustJesus, @synergy10 (in the Blade Silver CRX), myself, @ef_chris, and RedSonja is there towards the right. A few other in our group there, but I don't know there screen names.
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Here's a shot from Rodrez at SuperStreet:
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And getting some BBQ with the guys after the meet:
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Overall, it was a great day.....other than when it wasn't.
It was the first time the CRX had seen any real mileage in a couple years. Definitely the first time on the road since doing all the modifications over the past year and a half.
On the freeway, about half way down to San Diego, the car pulled hard to the right. It was a little scary. But I chalked it up to getting pulled by those grooves/cracked in the highway. But then a few miles later it happened again. I didn't want to take any chances, so I had out caravan pull over.

I didn't have many tools with me, but we did get it jacked up so we can take a peek around. Nothing stood out. 2 of the 4 bolts that hold the passenger side ball joint to the upper control arm were slightly loose, but certainly not enough to cause this kind of pull. We couldn't figure it out, so I just babied the car in the slow lane for the remainder of the trip.

After the meet, we stopped at my brother-in-law's (@synergy10) house so we can pull the CRX in the Garage and get it up on jack stands to get a proper look at everything. We nutted and bolted everything, and we did notice that 1) the passenger side axle nut was slightly backed off, and 2) the 4 big ass bolts that attach the front crossmember to the chassis were slightly loose. During the build process, those parts were on/off a million times. I guess I just forgot to torque them down. Uggh. So got them tightened up and took it easy on the trip back to Orange County.

A couple days later, I took my brother (@Tougeoni) out for a test drive to show him how the new tune felt. After just a quick jaunt up/down my street, we got back and noticed that the axle nut had backed off slightly again...and the crossmember bolts were slightly loose again. We think that it's caused by my over-use of anti-seize. Now...I didn't apply any to the axle nuts, but I did put some on the axle splines (probably too much!), and I'm guessing it bled out, and onto the axle nut. For the crossemember bolts....ya, that one is my bad. I coated the crap out of them at one point, since they were squeeling a bit on the way in/out. Lesson learned. It's called "anti-seize" for a reason. [bonk]

Now...have I done anything about it in the past 4 months since this happened? lol. Nope! The CRX has just been sitting there...waiting for me to take care of it. Someday!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,012 ·
In the meantime, the Chasing J's titanium coil-on-plug adapter plate showed up. Man, these Ti parts are pretty!
Unfortunately, all the silver Downstar hardware that I had all over the engine head just didn't really measure up anymore. So another call into Chasing J's, and I had more titanium parts heading my way.

I got their valve cover kit, but modified it a little....since they utilize acorn nuts, which I can't stand the look of for some reason. lol By using some of the "internal" parts from my old Skunk2 low profile washer kit, I was able to use Chasing J's bolts instead of acorn nuts. Much better!

Next were bolts for the coil-on-plug adapter plate and for the coils themselves, exhaust manifold studs, dip stick, distributor bolts and cam cap bolts. They don't actually market the cam cap bolts. I just measured the oem bolt lengths, and they happened to have some bolts that were a similar size in their inventory. At that point, I'd swapped out just about all the hardware on the valve cover area. I'll call it a day before I go TOO far with the Ti! lol

Here is the dip stick:
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And here it is, next to my old aluminum dip stick from Panducky (back in the day!)
That old dip stick was another one of those parts that moved around from engine to engine. I think I've been using it for the past 10 years at least.
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Here are some overall shots of all the new Chasing J's bits:
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Discussion Starter · #2,013 ·
My old Momo Tuner steering wheel had been with me for about 16+ years at this point. It was a gift from my brother back in the early days of my old white CRX. While I always loved the classic, simple design, it was well used and well past it's prime. It's replacement came in the form of the OMP WRC steering wheel. I love the "race" look of it, but I was worried that it would be too "deep" for my liking. I'm pretty particular with the distance from my chest to the steering wheel. As it turns out....it wasn't all that bad. I think it pushed the wheel only about a half inch towards me.

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The yellow bits served as a needed accent color in the interior. And they paired nicely with my Schroth harness.
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With the interior coming along nicely, the Works Bell quick release just wasn't working for me any more. It served me well for 16+ years. But the silver color just didn't go with the new interior setup. But simply removing it would put the steering wheel much too far away. So I ordered a Works Bell spacer. It worked beautifully. The spacing was perfect, and the satin black blended with the interior much better.
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Discussion Starter · #2,014 ·
The next piece of the puzzle for the interior was the center console. I haven't run a stereo in this car for about 9 years. And I recently removed the climate control when I deleted all the underdash heating and ventilation. And the clock no longer receives power. So I was left with a bunch of holes and dead devices. The solution....block off plates! I contacted GregParts and ordered a handful of block off plates....for the clock, climate control, radio and switch plugs for the area around the steering column. All clean and simple looking now!

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Discussion Starter · #2,017 ·
Nice update
Thanks!

I would hate not having music, but love the look of that simplicity!

Since the HVAC in that car in non existent, you should have asked if Gregparts could have custom made an entire center vent delete.
I wonder how that would have looked?
I hear ya. I've got a fairly decent sound system in my truck. But in the CRX, I prefer to listen to the engine. :)
I'm sure Greg could have come up with something to delete the center vent. I think there is another company out there that has one....or at least one that houses a couple gauges.
Since the vents on either end of the dash are still there, the center vent doesn't look all that out of place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,018 ·
I picked up my SSR Type C's second hand (from @JustJesus), and they did not come with the valve stem caps or center caps. So I ended up picking up a set of valve stem caps:

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The magnetic feature is pretty cool. Makes it harder to lose them when you're airing up at the gas station.

I was going to get a set of center caps from SSR but, man, they're pricey for what they are. I did some digging around and I found some knock-off center caps on AliExpress. I'd never used a site like that, so I was a little nervous. But at 8 bucks shipped for 2 sets of center caps...yes, you heard me correctly...2 sets of center caps for 8 bucks shipped!....it was worth a shot. They took a while to come in though. (Couple months, if I recall correctly?) Unfortunately, I was fairly disappointed when they arrived. For 1, the diameter was off. They flopped around in the center bore of the wheels. And 2, they're really bulky. The generic black housing is way too deep. The positive though....the stickers that they used are actually pretty decent. They were worth the price alone. I'll be able to utilize them to make some custom 3d-printed center caps.

Anyway....here are the center caps. I chose 2 different styles. One is a bubble-type sticker, with the classic SSR logo that matches my wheels. The other set has the aluminum-style sticker.
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And to provide a bit of context, here they are on the car:

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Discussion Starter · #2,019 ·
To take a little break from the CRX content.....
When my wife and I bought our house a few years ago, the lighting in the Garage was horrible. Doing any work in there required maneuvering flashlights and shop lights around. The only light in the Garage was a 48" 2-bulb fluorescent light fixture on the ceiling.
(Keep in mind, the amount of light in this photo is deceiving, as I have LED's over the workbench turned on. With only the ceiling light on, it's pretty dark in there.)

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I desperately needed better lighting above my workbench. So I installed a couple 48" LED lights that I picked up on Amazon for something like $40 shipped. They're not hardwired. I just hid the cord in a flat plastic conduit, and the switch is easily accessible to the side of the cabinets. Much better lighting for activities after that!

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While that solved the issue of lighting over my workbench, lighting while working on the car still left much to be desired. Another visit to Amazon, and I now had (6) 8ft long LED lights. (The brand is Barrina.) I mounted 4 of them in a square pattern, then the remaining 2 on either side. They were somewhat cheap for the amount of light that they provide. They were about $120, and they put out roughly 9000 lumens. I hardwired them where the previous light was, so I get to utilize the existing wall switch for these lights.

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