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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to this website, and a Mazda MX3 owner. I am thinking of buying a 88 Honda CRX from some chick I know for $600 tomorrow morning. CRX has 102k miles and body is perfect to work on (I paint cars at my high school)

Anyway, what are somethings to look out for as far as models go?
I dont know if its a HF, DX or whatever. I'll find out but which model should I stay away from if I want to do a B16 swap in the future?
Is a B16 swap difficult on a 88 CRX?

thanks

Sorry for being such a noob
 

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The DX is the model that will make swaps the most difficult.
The HF and the SI both are pretty straight forward and is a bolt in affair. where as the DX will need new hubs and more wiring to convert from 2 injectors to 4.

All your answers will be in the FAQ and in searching for info on swapping,
take your time and look around the site, all the info is here.

Welcome.
 

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SIred91 said:
The HF and the SI both are pretty straight forward and is a bolt in affair. where as the DX will need new hubs and more wiring to convert from 2 injectors to 4.
Dx models don't need new hubs, they're the same as on the Si, brakes too. It's the HFs that need new hubs and have tiny brakes.

There is a write-up on a B16 swap in the How-To section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just wondering but since its from 1988 wouldnt it be a carburetor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Really stupid quick question. Besides decals, how can I tell if its a DX, HF or SI?

The chick dosent know what it is.
She is selling it for cheap cause she needs to get money for bills. Also, the body is a bit messed up cause they were going to work on it at her school. "messed up" as in dents. Not crashed or bent fenders or anything
 

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If it's an HF or Si, it will say so on the back of the car, unless the sticker's been removed. Dx models don't have stickers.

A factory sunroof only came on the Si. Automatic was an option only on the Dx. HF cars have an ugly 2-spoke steering wheel and a tach redlined at 5k.

You can look at the VIN too.
JHMED9 = Si.
JHMED8 = Dx or HF.

The best way is probably to look under the hood though, at the code on the engine block, where the red circles are in this pic:


D16A6 = Si
D15B2 = Dx
D15B6 = HF

If you can't find that or it's too grimey to read, look at the valve cover for a 16 valve designation and the intake manifold for a PGM-FI sticker.
PGM-FI w/ 16 valve = Si
no PGM-FI but 16 valve = Dx
PGM-FI but doesn't say 16 valve = HF.

If you still can't figure it out, post a pic and we'll tell you. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So stay away from the DX right?
Because a DX will require a little more wiring since it has only 2 injectors or something

But say it is a DX, would a B16 swap be alot more difficult? Alot of wiring involved?
 

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If you're doing a B-Swap then pretty much everything (engine-related) has to be changed over. If you're staying with D-series then you'll need a few other things if you want to get more things. It's not really hard to figure out, but it's just one more thing that needs done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Great to hear some feedback. The chick says 102k miles so tomorrow morning I will defiantleyn check it out
 

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One advantage the HF has, especially if you plan on doing an engine swap, is that it is lighter. The HF lacks a few bumper supports and some other relatively trivial things that saved wieght (it was originally designed to be a gas saver so weight savings were paramount).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I offered $500 which she took. Brand new owner of a 1988 Honda CRX HF 1.5L, with bad repairable body, 102k miles and its a manual

Time to swap in a KLZE engine... oh wait this isnt my MX3.
B16 swap in the later future. For now its going to be a daily driver car while my MX3 gets worked on

I'll post pics of it later on by Saturday. Then in a month from now you will see a big change in the body.
 

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Juans_Mx3 said:
I offered $500 which she took. Brand new owner of a 1988 Honda CRX HF 1.5L, with bad repairable body, 102k miles and its a manual

Time to swap in a KLZE engine... oh wait this isnt my MX3.
B16 swap in the later future. For now its going to be a daily driver car while my MX3 gets worked on

I'll post pics of it later on by Saturday. Then in a month from now you will see a big change in the body.
Daaaaamn. Nice snag man. Word of advice though, save the money on the engine and go B18* - they have more torque and generally are a better engine than the old school b16. Not that the b16 is a bad engine, it is the grandfather of the B18 but there's more potential in the more expensive engines of course. Just a thought :) I'm peicing together a B swap right now on the cheap, and its not easy, but I should be able to get it done for about $3000.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The CRX is in a need of a starter and a catalytic converter. AutoZone quoted me $145 for the cat and $85 for the starter.
:rolleyes1:
I think I can find those parts for much cheaper

I went on Ebay.com and found some cheap ass CATs. Some going for as low as $40 to $50 dollars.

What do you guys think of this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Magnaflo ... enameZWD1V
I need to pass emisions by the way.

By the way, are the starters from the SIs, DXs universal with the HF starter?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-91-ho ... enameZWD1V
 
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