oil change.
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Get an oil filter from Honda. Don't buy an aftermarket one.
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Why is that? Ive been using KN oil filters forever now.baker_jeff said:
Oil changes are easy. all you need is a 17mm wrench and maybe an oil filter wrench. The oil filter is located in the rear of the engine and sometimes hard to get to. Make sure the engine is cool before sticking your arm up to change it.
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There is a review floating around... I may have saved it and I'll take a look later. Here's one I found about motorcycle filters, the same ideas apply. The filter for my old bike was the same as the older civic filters, I used a couple on the CRX when I still had some left over. Basically the author compared different filters, aftermarket and OEM, by taking them apart and putting them through various tests. Honda OEM filters used to be all good, until a few years ago. Now the one you want is the s2000 filter, it's still made by Toyo-Roki, while the others are made by Fram. If you get one from Honda it's going to cost around $10, and make sure they don't charge you for the new crush washer. I get all mine there and every once in a while they try to charge me 80 cents or something, but I remind them that they didn't charge last time and they let it slide.
You probably won't need a filter wrench to get it off, and it's a pain to get any tools back there anyway. Be careful not to drip it on your exhaust pipe, it will stink while it's burning off.
To change the tranny fluid, you need another 17mm and a 3/8" drive ratchet. Get under the car on the passenger's side and you will see a bolt with a square cut out, it has a longer head than the other bolts. Your 3/8" ratchet will fit right in there, loosen it to drain the fluid. Behind and above it is the fill hole, you might want to open that first to make the draining quicker and smoother. Once it's drained, put the drain bolt back in. Now use a funnel with a tube (I use fuel hosing) and get it in the fill hole, holding the funnel at the top of the tranny where you can get to it. Now just start filling it up, until it dribbles out the fill hole. Make sure the car is level while you fill it. It's kind of a pain to do, it takes a while for the oil to go through the tube. You can also use other holes on the tranny to fill it, as long as you leave that hole open so you know when it's done, personally I always use the fill hole. Use either Honda MTF or 10W40. I use motor oil because that's what the manual says, and with the number of times I've had to drain the damn tranny I would be even more broke using Honda MTF.
You probably won't need a filter wrench to get it off, and it's a pain to get any tools back there anyway. Be careful not to drip it on your exhaust pipe, it will stink while it's burning off.
To change the tranny fluid, you need another 17mm and a 3/8" drive ratchet. Get under the car on the passenger's side and you will see a bolt with a square cut out, it has a longer head than the other bolts. Your 3/8" ratchet will fit right in there, loosen it to drain the fluid. Behind and above it is the fill hole, you might want to open that first to make the draining quicker and smoother. Once it's drained, put the drain bolt back in. Now use a funnel with a tube (I use fuel hosing) and get it in the fill hole, holding the funnel at the top of the tranny where you can get to it. Now just start filling it up, until it dribbles out the fill hole. Make sure the car is level while you fill it. It's kind of a pain to do, it takes a while for the oil to go through the tube. You can also use other holes on the tranny to fill it, as long as you leave that hole open so you know when it's done, personally I always use the fill hole. Use either Honda MTF or 10W40. I use motor oil because that's what the manual says, and with the number of times I've had to drain the damn tranny I would be even more broke using Honda MTF.
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well said!!!!!!!!!downest said:
fyi, just as a precaution on the tranny oil... you loosen the FILL bolt FIRST!....
Not because you want it to drain faster either... you loosen it first because MANY times, it is frozen in there pretty good, and getting it off can be a real pain. To me, this is the toughest bolt in the car, even moreso than the crank pulley bolt or axle nuts... air tools get that pretty easy, but especially with B-swapped cars, that bolt is the devil... Maintly because it has such huge and fine threads, it has a LOT of surface area to grab onto. Its super easy to strip, and it wants to stay right where it is... hehe. To make life a bit easier the next time, you can also put some anti-sieze on the bolt.
But anyway, loosen the fill bolt first, because if you can't get it off after you've just drained your tranny oil, it'll be really fun getting to a mechanics place to have them loosen the bolt for you :lol: Just saves a bit of hassle.
Oh, and one more tip on the engine oil change, if you can't reach a filter wrench back there, or if you don't have one, and you cant get the filter off by hand, just pierce it through its side like Moby Dick with a screwdriver, and use that to twist it off
Not because you want it to drain faster either... you loosen it first because MANY times, it is frozen in there pretty good, and getting it off can be a real pain. To me, this is the toughest bolt in the car, even moreso than the crank pulley bolt or axle nuts... air tools get that pretty easy, but especially with B-swapped cars, that bolt is the devil... Maintly because it has such huge and fine threads, it has a LOT of surface area to grab onto. Its super easy to strip, and it wants to stay right where it is... hehe. To make life a bit easier the next time, you can also put some anti-sieze on the bolt.
But anyway, loosen the fill bolt first, because if you can't get it off after you've just drained your tranny oil, it'll be really fun getting to a mechanics place to have them loosen the bolt for you :lol: Just saves a bit of hassle.
Oh, and one more tip on the engine oil change, if you can't reach a filter wrench back there, or if you don't have one, and you cant get the filter off by hand, just pierce it through its side like Moby Dick with a screwdriver, and use that to twist it off
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I agree that is a TOUGH bolt to get off. I have used GM syncromesh fluid for slight synchro grind on fast shifts at high rpm. I know it sounds like bs, but it has helped a lot on my YS1 tranny. Its expensive. There is a number of articles online about this stuff being great. Costs more however and you have to get it at the GM dealership.ComposiMo said:fyi, just as a precaution on the tranny oil... you loosen the FILL bolt FIRST!....
Not because you want it to drain faster either... you loosen it first because MANY times, it is frozen in there pretty good, and getting it off can be a real pain. To me, this is the toughest bolt in the car, even moreso than the crank pulley bolt or axle nuts... air tools get that pretty easy, but especially with B-swapped cars, that bolt is the devil... Maintly because it has such huge and fine threads, it has a LOT of surface area to grab onto. Its super easy to strip, and it wants to stay right where it is... hehe. To make life a bit easier the next time, you can also put some anti-sieze on the bolt.
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It is expensive, but it's probably worth it as long as you are only changing the fluid at regular intervals. I'm planning on getting some Honda MTF finally, now that I don't have to pull the tranny/axles for a while (hopefully).
I've never had too much trouble getting the bolt off. The worst one was on a DA, and I had it high enough that I could use my foot to kick it loose.
I've never had too much trouble getting the bolt off. The worst one was on a DA, and I had it high enough that I could use my foot to kick it loose.
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Ya, definitely use Honda MTF, you will feel the difference. its worth the few extra dollars. The manual says you can use motor oil in the tranny, but when the manual was published, the oil components were different than they are now. Current oil should not go in your manual tranny.
ok so i went out and bought 3 bottles of quaker state 10w30 and a quaker state filter,
( i think im going to buy a honda one with the tranny oil.) and i was planning on getting the honda tranny oil and in the manual it says to use honda anifreeze, so i wanted to get that stuff today. so i won't be needing this honda tool to get the filter off? thanks for all the help guys.
( i think im going to buy a honda one with the tranny oil.) and i was planning on getting the honda tranny oil and in the manual it says to use honda anifreeze, so i wanted to get that stuff today. so i won't be needing this honda tool to get the filter off? thanks for all the help guys.
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i use penzoil syncro mesh same stuff gm useing but if u get it from autozone its cheaper the gm dealer
Nope. That's a deal-killer right there.
But seriously, I've heard lots of good things about the Synchro-Mesh as well. If you're having a little bit of grindage on the upshifts, it CAN help. Me? I'm still quite happy with Honda MTF - but I was happy for years with Castrol 5W-30 or SAE 30 as my transmission oil, too (just like Honda used to recommend).
Oh, and you'll be wanting FOUR quarts of oil for the engine, not three. And two for the transmission (2.0 qts/1.9 liters). I've never run Honda antifreeze, and never had a problem running good ol' Prestone...
Mike
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i use pensoil syncromesh.its aswome i recomend it to anyone.took away my thrid gear greind and made shifting smoother. IMO well worth 6.66 a quart.Savage said:
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BTW, make sure you get new crush washers under those bolts. They are soft metal that seals the holes.
Whenever I get my oil changed (a well spent $20 in my book... well, more since I only use synthetic), I always go to the pit and ask them to give me my OLD crush washer. One time I didn't do it - sure enough they left the old one on... and it was plastic and cracking!
Whenever I get my oil changed (a well spent $20 in my book... well, more since I only use synthetic), I always go to the pit and ask them to give me my OLD crush washer. One time I didn't do it - sure enough they left the old one on... and it was plastic and cracking!
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