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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided to upgrade my ignition so I can do tuning on my b16. Got Rywire harnesses, Distrbutor King dizzy and 4 wire O2 sensor. I have a p28 that was modified to use with HOndata s200.
Driving around town, it works like a dream.
Took it to the Dyno, at full throttle only, at varing rpms, the engine has a dead pause then recoups and continues to rev all the way up. Its not a fart or a misfire, it's as if someone turned off the key. Tried a different ecu- the same. It does not look like the fuel pressure changes on my gauge, and I cannot prove that I lose spark, but things are going very fast at 5-7000 rpm's. Again, without getting on it, it runs fine until long rev up through gear, and then intermittantly at different rpms.
Anyone have this problem? Any thoughts? Could a bad relay switch do something like this? Even though dizzy is brand new, could this be the problem?
 

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Hmmm... I'm just going to list off a few things that come to mind. Dirty airfilter or some obstruction to airflow. Sticky accelerator cable. Sticky butterfly in the throttle body. Dirty fuel filter.

I'm sure the rest of the guys here can think of a few more things to check.
 

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Hmmm... I'm just going to list off a few things that come to mind. Dirty airfilter or some obstruction to airflow. Sticky accelerator cable. Sticky butterfly in the throttle body. Dirty fuel filter.
Those things would cause a problem throughout pretty much the entire rev range, not just in one spot. My vote would be the programming in the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
dohcrxl said:
Hmmm... I'm just going to list off a few things that come to mind. Dirty airfilter or some obstruction to airflow. Sticky accelerator cable. Sticky butterfly in the throttle body. Dirty fuel filter.
Those things would cause a problem throughout pretty much the entire rev range, not just in one spot. My vote would be the programming in the ECU.
Swapped in new ecu with base program, the same, Throttle body moves freely, fuel filter I will change, fuel pump changing. Its like someone shut off the car and then started it again after just a moment off.
Could the main relay do this?
 

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I'm trying to think of other suggestions...possibly a short or break in the injector's circuit... I would suggest fuel pump, but that typically doesn't cut things off suddenly like you are experiencing...it usually bogs out and stalls.
 

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My apologies for not remembering everything I read and the confusion it may have caused anybody. I see it now(again) that you already tried a different ECU which voids what I said about the ECU.

Whenever a new problem just happens to accompany work that was just done to your car, most likely it is because of something that was done or not done during that work. I'd reconfirm your obd1 conversion wiring. You might want to PM downest because he just finished up a conversion and it might still be fresh in his mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
dohcrxl said:
Whenever a new problem just happens to accompany work that was just done to your car, most likely it is because of something that was done or not done during that work. I'd reconfirm your obd1 conversion wiring. You might want to PM downest because he just finished up a conversion and it might still be fresh in his mind.
What is bizarre is that I could drive all around town all day or at 75mph on the highway, but at full throttle, when I'm asking for the most, it does this thing. I'm wondering if the Dizzy is bad. I was warned about using Distributor king.
 

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Richrowa said:
What is bizarre is that I could drive all around town all day or at 75mph on the highway, but at full throttle, when I'm asking for the most, it does this thing. I'm wondering if the Dizzy is bad. I was warned about using Distributor king.
Hmmm... possibly. But that usually is followed by a backfire if the distributor is spinning out of tolerances and doesn't cause a spark at the spark plugs. All that fuel piles up and then you get a little backfire from it.
 

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do you ahve a wb hooked up while you are tuning?
if so does the wb read constant or does it flash lean / 20:1 afr ??

my friend had this problem before and it turned out to be a bad injector wire randomly causing the injector not to fire

this would explain why you are not getting a back fire b/c no fuel is being delivered
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BlackCRX said:
do you ahve a wb hooked up while you are tuning?
if so does the wb read constant or does it flash lean / 20:1 afr ??

my friend had this problem before and it turned out to be a bad injector wire randomly causing the injector not to fire

this would explain why you are not getting a back fire b/c no fuel is being delivered
It did seem to go lean. We considered that. Hard to prove. Odd it happened after I did the swap to obd1 only though since I did not change the injector wiring harness at all.
Plan is this:
1)Changing the fuel pump and filter-doubt it will help but its original pump and should replace just out of respect for the 200,000 miles its worked
2)Swapping out the Distributor-could be bad from the factory-brand new DistributorKing one
3)try to look at harness-I am not looking foward to this since its intermittant . How can I check it? Remember it only happens at full throttle
under max load at higher rpms. I dont have one to swap out
 

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Richrowa said:
BlackCRX said:
do you ahve a wb hooked up while you are tuning?
if so does the wb read constant or does it flash lean / 20:1 afr ??

my friend had this problem before and it turned out to be a bad injector wire randomly causing the injector not to fire

this would explain why you are not getting a back fire b/c no fuel is being delivered
It did seem to go lean. We considered that. Hard to prove. Odd it happened after I did the swap to obd1 only though since I did not change the injector wiring harness at all.
Plan is this:
1)Changing the fuel pump and filter-doubt it will help but its original pump and should replace just out of respect for the 200,000 miles its worked
2)Swapping out the Distributor-could be bad from the factory-brand new DistributorKing one
3)try to look at harness-I am not looking foward to this since its intermittant . How can I check it? Remember it only happens at full throttle
under max load at higher rpms. I dont have one to swap out
sorry but im new to the site and i dont know your track history
so i assume you had the b16 swap, but running obd0? no problems?
then converted to obd1 with a conversion harness and obd1 ecu/distrubitor, and now it hesitates?

if this is true i would swap the obd0 ecu/distrubitor back on and see if it does the same thing, if it doesnt then i would look at the converion harness as you tried a different ecu already

quick suggestion, crx fuel pumps are a bitch to change since you have to drop the tank and ****. i would almost do it the sneaky way and run an inline pump while keeping the stock one intank
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Already dropped the tank and putting it in. Yes I found out how bad it was.
Yes the swap was working fine obd0 and bought harness from Rywire, dizzy from Distributor king.
I am going to swap in another dizzy and see if that helps. Should get one this weekend.
I hate to go back to the obdo since I cut some wires, o2 sensor, I think a wire for the vtec, etc for the conversion. I dont even remember but still have the directions so worst case I could back track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
grouch said:
I'm not familiar with the s200 features, but do they have settings for open and closed loop switchover point? Might look and see...
It does but when we set it to open loop , turned off knock sensor and other things, it still did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Great thought I will do it. Have the car at my frineds now who has lift so will not touch it until next week and working Sunday night :cry: I'll be fried until Tuesday. I just dont do all nighters like I used to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You won't believe it. I was convienced that it had something to do with the knock sensor, even though through my S200 it looked like I shut it off. My buddy suggested putting in a couple of gallons of 114 octane to see. Voila!!!!
NO hesitation any more. It must be that I was getting some ping due to my CTR pistons (I think I have about 11 to 1 compression) around when vtec engaged and instead of just adjusting the timing, for whatever reason, it would just shut me down. I wonder if I have my knock sensor wired right?
I think I am close to race day now!!!!
Maybe I can go back to the tuner now and actually get it optimized.
 

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in your first post you said you were running a p28 with s200
p28;s dont have knock sensing capability

if the problem is resolved with higher octane fuel then i would focus on the tune you are running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
BlackCRX said:
in your first post you said you were running a p28 with s200
p28;s dont have knock sensing capability

if the problem is resolved with higher octane fuel then i would focus on the tune you are running.
Interesting. When I pull the wire off the knock sensor, I get a code. Its a p28 all right, in fact I have tried 3! (one was a upgraded p06) In the s200 we checked off the disable knock sensor, but it had not effect. My friend thinks it has to do with my ctr pistons and when I changed to obd1 it had more aggressive timing, hense the issue with knock. I don't know, just glad I can floor it again! 8)
 
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