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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I recently purchased a 1990 CRX with a nitrous kit installed. I didn't know if anyone here has heard or seen that before but I have no clue if it's hooked up properly and was hoping someone could help me understand it/ tell me if it's safe to use.
 

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This is an aftermarket dry nitrous kit. Instructions should be available from Zex. Trace the wires and see where they go. Personally, I would remove the kit as well as the MSD and all the split loom. Spraying nitrous on an unknown mileage engine without adding for fuel is not the best idea and the split loom only serves to make troubleshooting harder. There is no need for an MSD on a stock engine, especially one that doesn't adjust timing when adding nitrous.

This bay looks straight out of 1999. While it may peak on my nostalgia meter, with the availability of aftermarket ECU's, forced induction kits, coil on plug and K series engines, slapping on some "NOS" on a D Series and hoping it holds together should only exist in the memories of us 90's kids teenage years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello, I just took out all the split loom, nitrous kit and msd. When I removed the wires from the msd from the distributor my car wouldn't even turn over. I tried wiring it back the same way without the nitrous and now it runs but the engine shakes a lot and stalls out very easily. I am SOL at the moment and would greatly appreciate a point in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you, I finally got the MSD and nitrous Kit completely removed. Putting new plugs and wires in on Tuesday. Now I'm just wondering what viable power adders I can use on a D series daily driver. Here is a picture of what the engine bay looks like now:
 

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OK, here's a really weird idea:

How about just driving the car for a while? Get to know it, see how it feels in all of your favorite driving circumstances...

--DD
 
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There used to be an excellent h22 into a Crx wrtiteup by ExplicitSpeed over 15 yrs ago, but since the business( Explicit Speed Performance) is now extinct and that user seems to be MIA now, you have to research a little harder.
This is a copy and paste from a post by that member giving a little detail about the swap.


"EF 88-91 Civic/Crx H22A motor mount kit
With our motor mount kit: Clears USDM EF hood, 1 custom axle, no firewall hitting, Made out thick steel...

Driver Side Axle: 88-89 Acura Integra off the shelf at your local auto parts store or junkyard
Passenger Side Axle: Custom Raxles axle
Midshaft: 90-93 Honda Accord F series Ex or Lx model, junkyard item...
Cable Shifter Assembly: 90+ Accord or 92+ Prelude with cables
Engine Harness: Rywire.com obd0-obd1 H22A plug and play engine harness $374 with your factory engine harness and H22A engine harness sent to them. Or be adventuress spend a day or 2 modifying and mostly extending wires to reach around the H22A engine with only a obd0-obd1 jumper harness.

Q: What do you have to do to install it?
A: You have to weld in the new passenger side chassis mount and make a lil clearance on the rear crossmember for tranny filler plug.

Q: Will I need the Integra hub, knuckle, spindle?
A: Yes like in almost all motor swaps you will need the Integra 90+ hub, knuckle, spindle swap, might as well get the brake rotor and caliper for an easy upgrade they aren't going to charge you any more. Junkyard item. I am not 100% sure but 88-91 Civic/Crx SI models may not need it.

Q: Is it worth it?
A: Everyone has there own thinking, I say yes there is a lot of benefits and not enough cons about it. A H22A1/H22A engine will produce more HP and Torque then an ITR swap...a built ITR swap...can't compare to the torque @ low rpm and midrange...I made 158 ft lbs of torque @ a staggering low of 3200 rpm on a very conservative dyno.

Q: Weight and handeling?
A: My H22A Crx weighs in at 2020 lbs and 2200 with me in it, 2020 lbs is 100 lbs less then the last year Crx SI weighed. The weight is not an issue. I have had 2 B series Crx's and the H22A Crx handles just as good maybe even better. Stock shocks and springs will need to be replaced with something more decent and durable. Like you should do with any motor swap.

Q: Will the front crossmember clear?
A: No, there just isn't enough room. We offer in our Packaged Deal our own specially designed EF H22A traction bar system that is a direct replacement.

Q: How is the ground clearance?
A: I have 3.5" of clearance from the lowest point the oil pan to the ground on a 2" drop. Never had a bump in the road or a rough patch of road that I couldn't conquere.

Q: Does it clear the stock hood?
A: Yes with about 1/2" to spare...plenty...

Q: Will the stock radiator work?
A: Yes I run the OEM 3/4 length, not even the full length in my H22A Crx and never had an overheating issue.

Q: Have you ever had any problems with your H22A Crx?
A: I never even had an axle issue, after numerous burnouts and 1/4 mile runs and daily driving wear and tear...drives and handles like Honda made it this way from the factory..."
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There's an engine swap article in the mod garage by downest. In the article he mentions the H23 as not being a worthwhile swap, but now I may consider the H23. Honestly I've been back and forth between H and K, I figure if I'm modifying the engine bay then I might as well go all out with k series, but then again that's a hefty price tag. I'll admit, I bought this car on impulse and didn't know jack about cars until recently, however I've always admired the CRX even from a young age. I'm a strong believer that anyone can do anything they set their mind to if they apply themselves and use the resources at their disposal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There used to be an excellent h22 into a Crx wrtiteup by ExplicitSpeed over 15 yrs ago, but since the business( Explicit Speed Performance) is now extinct and that user seems to be MIA now, you have to research a little harder.
This is a copy and paste from a post by that member giving a little detail about the swap.


"EF 88-91 Civic/Crx H22A motor mount kit
With our motor mount kit: Clears USDM EF hood, 1 custom axle, no firewall hitting, Made out thick steel...

Driver Side Axle: 88-89 Acura Integra off the shelf at your local auto parts store or junkyard
Passenger Side Axle: Custom Raxles axle
Midshaft: 90-93 Honda Accord F series Ex or Lx model, junkyard item...
Cable Shifter Assembly: 90+ Accord or 92+ Prelude with cables
Engine Harness: Rywire.com obd0-obd1 H22A plug and play engine harness $374 with your factory engine harness and H22A engine harness sent to them. Or be adventuress spend a day or 2 modifying and mostly extending wires to reach around the H22A engine with only a obd0-obd1 jumper harness.

Q: What do you have to do to install it?
A: You have to weld in the new passenger side chassis mount and make a lil clearance on the rear crossmember for tranny filler plug.

Q: Will I need the Integra hub, knuckle, spindle?
A: Yes like in almost all motor swaps you will need the Integra 90+ hub, knuckle, spindle swap, might as well get the brake rotor and caliper for an easy upgrade they aren't going to charge you any more. Junkyard item. I am not 100% sure but 88-91 Civic/Crx SI models may not need it.

Q: Is it worth it?
A: Everyone has there own thinking, I say yes there is a lot of benefits and not enough cons about it. A H22A1/H22A engine will produce more HP and Torque then an ITR swap...a built ITR swap...can't compare to the torque @ low rpm and midrange...I made 158 ft lbs of torque @ a staggering low of 3200 rpm on a very conservative dyno.

Q: Weight and handeling?
A: My H22A Crx weighs in at 2020 lbs and 2200 with me in it, 2020 lbs is 100 lbs less then the last year Crx SI weighed. The weight is not an issue. I have had 2 B series Crx's and the H22A Crx handles just as good maybe even better. Stock shocks and springs will need to be replaced with something more decent and durable. Like you should do with any motor swap.

Q: Will the front crossmember clear?
A: No, there just isn't enough room. We offer in our Packaged Deal our own specially designed EF H22A traction bar system that is a direct replacement.

Q: How is the ground clearance?
A: I have 3.5" of clearance from the lowest point the oil pan to the ground on a 2" drop. Never had a bump in the road or a rough patch of road that I couldn't conquere.

Q: Does it clear the stock hood?
A: Yes with about 1/2" to spare...plenty...

Q: Will the stock radiator work?
A: Yes I run the OEM 3/4 length, not even the full length in my H22A Crx and never had an overheating issue.

Q: Have you ever had any problems with your H22A Crx?
A: I never even had an axle issue, after numerous burnouts and 1/4 mile runs and daily driving wear and tear...drives and handles like Honda made it this way from the factory..."
Thank you so much for the detailed reply, this has been truly helpful 👍
 

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There's an engine swap article in the mod garage by downest. In the article he mentions the H23 as not being a worthwhile swap, but now I may consider the H23. Honestly I've been back and forth between H and K, I figure if I'm modifying the engine bay then I might as well go all out with k series, but then again that's a hefty price tag. I'll admit, I bought this car on impulse and didn't know jack about cars until recently, however I've always admired the CRX even from a young age. I'm a strong believer that anyone can do anything they set their mind to if they apply themselves and use the resources at their disposal.

208whp with only bolt-on's is a solid number in these cars. He has a blue top H23, it's an underrated swap for sure. I'd heavily consider it before going K and I even have a K20Z1 long block sitting in my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As much as I'd like to save some money with the H swap, there just doesn't seem to be as much information in 2022 on the H as there is the K. Been looking for an step by step breakdown of the swap and there just isn't one. At least with the K I feel like there is enough information to piece together a successful swap. Most information is over 10 years old and has missing links/ pictures... plus no one is obligated to spell it out for me so I guess I'll be turning to the mechanics in my area. I live in Jacksonville so if anyone knows someone or can help get a H/K under my hood... it would be much appreciated.
 

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It's really no different than any other swap. Proper harnesses, axles and what not. He's using an H2B trans adapter so he can still use his B-series trans and axles. Driver-side radius rod needs to be custom built, Charlie Moua makes and sells them on FB. Need an aftermarket intake plenum because stock won't fit in the car. Most guys remove the balance shaft gears on the engine as well. Not sure why, just what I remember. The info is out there, it's more common than you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've been researching and have compiled a list of things I need, however this is the first I'm hearing anything about a radius rod and intake plenum.

-H22 mount kit
-H2B adapter for B series trans
-B series trans
-Sir style hood? (Hasport kit only)
-H22 front crossmember
-ESP swap kit?
-H22 axles
-Sleeve engine
-Chipped obd1 ecu
-Conversion harness obd 0-1
-New distributor
-4 wire oxygen sensor/ wide band O2 sensor (tuning) (LC1)
-Custom drivers side radius rod
-Intake plenum
-Remove balance shaft gears

Sure hope I'm not missing anything because this information has been pieced together. Hard to know what your missing.... in any case after I obtain EVERYTHING required for the swap, I'll try and piece together a step by step guide so that anyone that wants to do this in the future doesn't have to jump through as many hoops.
 
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