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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Seeing as how theres a few racing knowledgeable people hangin out these days, I figured I could ask my question here.

Im looking for an introduction to 'the right way to install a 5/6 point harness'

Currently I have a set of Corbeau A4 Seats and an (uninstalled) Autopower 4 point cage. The cage isnt installed yet because the harness bar on it was only on the drivers side, so im going to take it to a cage fabrication shop to get one for the passenger side welded up.

Now, obviously I know how to mount the shoulder straps, where should i mount the lap belt? ive seen a few ways and I dont know whats right.
For example, one way I saw was inside to teh factory seatbelt mount, outside to a tab welded on the down pillar of the cage.

What do you do regarding the 5/6 point crotch killer/save your ass belt. do you weld a plate to the floor sort of like installing the cage?

Im pretty sure Im going to go with a corbeau or Gforce belt, anyone have opinions on bramds/types of belt. Is there any reason I should get a camlock belt? Any opinions on brands for roll bar padding so Im less apt to crack open my dome?

Sorry for all the questions, but when it comes to saving my ass, better ask all I can.

I already have a Bell M3 Pro Helmet, and Sparco nomex gloves.

Thanks guys!
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use a eyebolt and bolt them to the right location on the floor on the left side and the exhaust tunnel on the right side. before you drill a hole, MEASURE EXACTLY where the lap belt will be as it would naturally angle out of your seat. so that means the seat has to be approximately where you would put it while in use. if you have an 88, it will actually thread into the stock seat belt anchor location. but check if thats the right place for you first. take the typical precautions when drilling... like making sure you dont drill into the exhaust! use the backing plate and washer and double nut.

with the eyebolt, you should be using the snap on hardware at the end of the lap belts. so make sure the harness you get has the right hardware.

you can get all this stuff from i/o port racing or racerpartswholesale.

as for the submarine belt, just drill another hole under your seat. have it angle back a bit. it shouldnt need a snap on clip, just hard bolt it in.

the reason you want the lap belts to have the snap on hardware is because youll need to be able to disconnect the lap belt in order to ever take the seat out again! at least if you use a rotating (camlock) harness which is bigger than the holes in the seats for the lap belts. get a camlock harness, theyre easier to use.

be sure to TRIPLE wrap your shoulder harness belts. they should be pointing BACK when youre done.

dont use the spagetti foam. use the harder type of rollbar padding. that foam in an impact thats hard enough to matter, wont do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks buddy,

Im going to research more with the stuff you said in mind. Ill post up my next questions once I do some more legwork.

Thanks for keeping me from killing myself! :lol:

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i would reconsider your harness choice then. (you might be able to switch out the bolt in hardware with the clipon style, but i cant tell)

you'd use that kind of hardware to bolt into the chassis or the cage that is designed for it. you can weld a bung or just drill a hole straight into the harness bar, but i wouldnt suggest it. better off just getting a wrap around style.

btw, i had a autopower camlock style from ioport racing. i liked it. easy to use. used it when my car was a daily and it didnt hold me back much. actually tho, what helped was that i adapted my "momo start/rookie" seat onto my stock seat rails and was able to move the seat back and forth. so like to get out of the car, i would just unlock, then move the seat back, and jump out. then to get in the car, i would jump in, attach and lock all the harnesses to the camlock, which is easy to do because there was a lot of slack as the seat was pushed back already, then move the seat up and it would all tighten up. then adjust as needed.

http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/m ... ry_Code=CL

what was kind of annoying, and i think your autopower roll cage will do this too (i had some unknown custom bolt in cage which did it, and i know ppl with autopowers that complained of this), is that the left shoulder harness will tend to wander around the bend of the harness bar, instead of keeping straight perpindicular. so some ppl weld in small guides to make sure they stay put. if you dont understand what im talking about, dont worry about it for now. if and once it happens, youll know exactly what im talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah, i actually cant because the roll bar interefered with the door mounted seatbelts. so i swapped to 88 door panels (pain in the ass) and deleted my stock belts.

thanks for thinking of me though :)

tyson, when you say not to use the bolt on rear part, is that because of the work involved with mounting it to the bar, or something else? I should get a picture of my bar too and post it up.

Id really like to use the corbeau harness' because..well..honestly...thyey match my seats haha. if its just more work involved to use them, but I can do it properly, im all for it....

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i just dont like the idea of drilling a 3/8" hole in my rollbar and then load the bolt in shear.

since youre using a "race" seat, id feel more comfortable using a 5 pt harness and rollbar and be nice and snug and working as a system than trying to wrap stock 3pt seats over the high bolsters which leave lots of slack. its not made for that anyway.

if you want to "match your seats", get "corbeau" harness pads. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hmm ok. yeah the stock seatbelts wouldve sucked with my seats, they wouldnt have been up against my body, but up against the seat.

do you have a picture of what the autopower harnesses look like?

thanks for all the advise, im nto trying to be a pain, just to do it right and safe (and hopefully with style) the first time.

thanks!

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i see issues with both #2 and #3. i dont see any issues with #1. (mounted exactly as shown for the shoulder harness)

but im not the expert. so if youre comfortable with whatever way shown, then go with it.

i think that picture just demonstrates the 3 different hardware styles you can use with their harness. but its not necessarily like that in all areas (eg shoulder, lap, and sub harness).

like the eyebolt i recommended to use for the lap belts and you cant bolt it anyother way than as shown in #2. and the sub belt you mount just like #3. but i wouldnt take that pic as all acceptable ways to WELD a tab to the rollbar. maybe thats just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well, you are right in that their tab looks like ass. id probably truss it. anyway, further research reveals that the corebeau harnesses come with hardware to be bolt in or wrap around. tragedy averted!

corbeau said:
Years of research and design have resulted in the development of the all-new Corbeau 3-inch Competition Harness Systems. Corbeau Competition Belts have been tested to meet and exceed all SFI 16.1 standards. Corbeau 5-Point Harness Systems feature state of the art Cam-Lock quick-release technology, Military Grade Nylon Webbing, Extra Strength Computerized Stitching, Lightweight Length Adjusters, Bolt-In & Wrap Around Mounting Hardware, Optional 3-Inch Harness Pads and the latest in style and design.
yay
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FWIW the new trend seems to be using 2" webbed belts rather than 3", with the main argument being that 2" belts conform to the shape/movement of your body better and are more likely to be where you want them in case of an impact...

Of course logically it seems like the 3" belt would be spreading the force over a larger area and thus would be superior...

F1 Drivers are harnessed by 2" belts as mandated since 2002...

Just doing my part to keep you safe, or else where am I gonna buy my cars?

Later man...

-Eric
 
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