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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this is a little off-topic and if I need to remove it or relocate it, please let me know.

I have read some good info on bodywork and paint from composimo and others regarding cars in here. Since I reconstructed my motorcycle last year after a mishap I've been wanting to paint it because its about 5 different colors right now from the wheels to the fairings to the tank. I know people around here dont encouage it but I was thinking of doing a cheap spray can color and clear system for right now, just to get it all the same color and looking respectable.

If i was to do so, how should i properly prep the pastic and metal surfaces? The fairings and the tank have the factory paint. Can I simply sand through the clearcoat and into the base coat, then apply the new color over that? Do I need to prime the surface in between? or should i just take all the paint off? Please advise me if you can.

I have tried this on the front fender already and it came out pretty nicely. I sanded it down finishing with 1000 grit primered resanded then sprayed a few coats of cherry red thena a few coats of clear.

Another question Ive had about doing the color is the clear is about when to sand. Do you spray the color coats then let that dry and harden, then wetsand that, then let it dry and spry the clear cloats? or do you spray the clear onto the color once the color flashes, or what? Cna someone explain the proper sequence of steps to me? When i did the fender i just sprayed the clear over the color once it had flashed for 30 mins or something, if i remember correctly.

Anyway, I figure it wouldn't be very much to spend just to get some matching paint on it.

Thoughts?
 

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Sand the clear down till it's not shiney, then re-paint. That's all that's really needed. You don't have to go through layers of paint or clear, it just has to be sanded enough for the new paint to stick. Unless the old paint is really screwed up, Stripping a decent paint job down to the metal is just retarded and unnesessary.(I once thought that was needed many years ago).
As far as a primer/sealer between old and new paint that depends on if your using a type of paint that will react with the old paint, but I don't know indepth which kinds those are.

Now as far as painting over spray can paint later with real paint, I haven't done that either. I guess if you use some decent spray paint I think it would be ok. You might have to strip the spray can stuff off then.
 

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For realz: Different paint "systems" are designed to flow and work with each other... not to be mixed with different brands and stuff, and each brand/system has certain "quirks" about it with stuff like this... for instance, the ChromaBase paints, you do NOT want to sand between coats of clear, and there is a specific "window" that you will want to re-clear... not when it is dried, and not when it is still wet, but a specific time in-between...

No one here will be able to answer the question of how long that window is, or when it begins... why? Because it is entirely dependant on temperature, humidity, mixture, altitude, what side of the bed you woke up on, etc... ASK for advise when you buy your paint "system", and follow it to a T.. don't vary from it one bit no matter how much you want it to flash faster, or think it should be slower... those guys know what is best for whatever paint they are selling.

Also, if you ask their advise when it is cold outside, DO NOT use that advise when it is warm out, or if the humidity changes... the mix changes a LOT depending on the weather, so if you are going to wait a while to paint, get advise pretty much the same day, or day before you spray... that way they can help you with the proper mixture!

Biggest piece of advise i can give besides listening CLOSELY to your paint suppliers advise?

Do NOT NOT NOT spray paint with a can, and then use that as the base for your real paint job. If you are painting for REAL, then get a proper primer, and mix it up and spray it out of a gun... use THAT as the base, not a POS can of spray paint ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No no no, i never meant to say I'd use the spray as a base for a real paint job later. Whenever I'd get around to doing a real job I'd sand/strip all of the cheapo spray off. I just want to recover the bike for now. I fully understand that this will not be permanent, and I'll have no problem stripping ot off later becasue I won't have spent so much on the spray.

I may also just look around and see what a local shop wants to spray on a few coats of color and clear after I prep the pieces. I do have a friend who's dad did bodywork for a living so he knows a bit too and has sprayed a few cars before, so maybe thats an option, especially since the parts are relatively small and easy to move and quick to spray. This way i could invest a few hundred and have a pretty damn nice paint job in the end.

Thanks for the advice, and I hate even coming here with a question about spray paint. Its something I'd usually try to do when no one was looking, then hope nobody asked about.... hahahaha.

Another question about sanding materials. It that past i have used sanding blocks to sand the panels, as well as a soaked spounge wrapped with fine grit sandpaper when I didn't have a flexible block and I was wet sanding with 600+ grit. What are the correct tools to use for this? And can you direct me to a place to look for them.

I also stripped the wheels a while back because for some retarded idea I thought that polished aluminum would be a great idea. However I had no plans to clear them and they look pretty oxidized and ****ty at this point. I see a few options at this point: a) repolish and clear, or b) prep and paint black, c) powder coat black. For option a, would I need to do anything special to prep the surface before clearing? Like apply some osrt of cleaner to remove and polishing residues? For option b can i just prep with 1000 grit then clean seal and spray?

I figure some of these questions may b e dumb ones, but how else can i learn? Are there any good books on the subject?

Also, pics of the bike can be seen here: http://web.mit.edu/jaman/www/zx-6r.html just to get an idea. You'll have to scroll to the bottom.

Thanks.
 
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