[jmart]

Okay, so I've decided to go ahead and finish collecting parts to make my d16a6 into a high compression mini-me with pm7/p29 pistons, a y8 head, obd1 swap probably tuned with crome, and possibly a crower cam. I'm still broke, but I get my first paycheck in a couple weeks so I want to start looking for a good places to get

a) p29 pistons

and

b) a cam+valvetrain.

I also want to port my head, but I've never done it before so I want to read some articles and get some advice on

a) doing some mild porting/gasket matching

and

b) whether to use air rotary tools or electric dremel tools.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Downest recommended just buying pistons from honda if I can't find used ones with rods attached. But I haven't really had much luck finding an online honda/acura parts supplieer that stocks/sells the pistons.
I found these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOND...ryZ33623QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
but don't know anything about their make or quality. I def don't want to put poorly manufactured pistons into a high compression engine, or any engine for that matter.

Help!

 

[jmart]

Okay, more questions:

a) do i need to run injectors with a greater flow capacity than the stock d16a6 ones?

b) whats the deal with titanium valves? Lighter and stronger? Are they necessary?

However I do this motor, I want to do it right the first time, even if it costs a bit more.

Also, I was reading somewhere, HT or d-series maybe, and people seemed to be saying that the p29 ring lands were weak, and recommended using a forged aftermarket piston instead. Hmmm, bucks and more bucks.

 

[downest]

Ok... I talked to you on AIM but it seems half the greater EF community is doing this thing lately...

First off, the pistons. Yes, use P29/PM7s (they are the same), the point of building a NA D16 is that it's cheap, and using OE parts keeps it that way. I talked to you earlier about hooking you up with some pistons. Rods and ringlands are the weak parts on D series pistons, but in a healthy, correctly tuned motor, you shouldn't have to worry about them at all.

For the cam/vt, the best is supposed to be Crower (psst, stage 3). You want Ti springs and retainers, but I think stock valves and keepers are ok. A friend of mine works at an engine building shop and said that the Ti springs aren't necessarily stiffer, but the retainers sit differently so they can preload the springs to effectively stiffen them.

As for the porting, I can't help you yet with that. I know it's a necessary thing, but I haven't learned it yet. My friend in the engine shop said I can go in sometime and see how it's done, I may just have him do my head eventually.

Your stock fuel system should be ok, I know some people like to get a FPR and a Walbro fuel pump, not everyone does. FPRs are cheapish though, especially the B&M (though I think the AEM is better).

Stuff you forgot, but you will need:
AEM cam gear. You need this to get the cam timing right with the deck height difference. AEM is known to not have made mistakes with the Y8 head.
Go through moates.net and get the hondalog, honda chipping kit, LC-1 wideband, and since you're doing it yourself, a BURN1 and possibly an Ostrich. After seeing Matt tune with the ostrich I can't imagine doing it without, it would be very tedious and frustrating. When you order the chip kit, call or email Craig and tell him you don't want the blue slim ZIF, you need the one with the lever on the side, otherwise you can't use the ostrich with your ECU.
Get rid of that pea shooter exhaust on your car now, go with a more or less straight 2.25" pipe.
Take that Z6 manifold I gave you to get extrude honed, there might be a machine shop at MIT that can do it when you're there, and probably for free since you're a recent alum. Also get a B series throttle body for it and port match them.
I have to run, more later!

 

[jmart]

Thanks Tom. Ya, I'm already aware of the tuning hardwarea nd software I'll need form talking to Matt.
I'll put the cam gear on my list of things to get.
Also, I am a little confused. I thought I read that you can only bolt b-series Tbs onto y8 intakes, I was unaware that the Z6 intake manis would accept a b-series TB as well.

 

[downest]

They bolt up to both the same.

 

[rex2nr]

Those are the same pistons, rings, and wrist pins I ordered last week in that auction... I'll let you know when they arrive.

 

[Dren]

If you get a Crower cam, get the spring set and retainers with it. They have the proper springs for each cam. The stage 3 lopes a lot at idle so you will need a tuneable computer. Do not get the stage 1, it isn't much different than the stock cam.

You don't need new injectors, the stock injectors are fine for how much power you will make. No need for a fuel rail upgrade either. You may want to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator so you can up the pressure for better atomization. I don't know how much that really helps, may not be worth the money.

As far as porting goes, you want to clean up any casting marks and port match the head to the gasket. There is a certain finish you need to put on the intake side and intake manifold so that the fuel doesn't stick to the side walls. Do a little research and you'll find this. You should polish the exhaust side to as shiney as possible to increase flow and reduce carbon build up that can cause detonation.

I plan to port my head with a dremel tool. It shouldn't be too hard. An air grinder would work better but it will also eat away the material a lot quicker. Aluminum is easy to grind when compared to steel. I would not recommend a dremel for steel heads, but aluminum should be fine.

 

[rex2nr]

I got the pistons, rings, and wrist pins today. They look pretty good, and appear to be be OEM.

 

[ollie]

LOL My GOD is everyone copying me! :lol:
I'm in the process of building a 12.8:1 D series.
I'll keep you guys updated as I go.

 

[rex2nr]

Hey! I thought of doing a hi-compression A6 a while ago... I just had no funds, and got the idea of building a mini-me, lol.

 

[jmart]

LOL My GOD is everyone copying me! :lol:
I'm in the process of building a 12.8:1 D series.
I'll keep you guys updated as I go.

The build isn't the hard part, the tuning is. Let us know how that goes.