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I think I have a blown radiator cause I ran my rex today down the road and noticed my temp gauge raising pretty quick. So I pulled over and popped the hood there was steem going everywhere and I smelled coolent very strong. I got it back to the house very slowly. I then tried to take out the radiator but could not do so very easy and did not want to bend the A/C hoses so I stopped.

Does anyone have a write up on how to remove the radiator? and can anybody tell me what may have caused this?
 

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if it's OEM syle with the plastic endcaps, they get old and the seal pops. Or it could be a hose broke. seal popped on mine a few months back, a little dribble of coolant out of the top perimeter and smell of coolant.

start up the car with the hood up and let it warm up, rev it a bit if you need to, and look for coolant leaking. this should confirm it's the radiator. let it cool of course before continuing.

the radiator is easy to get out, two bracket on the top corners, unplug the fan connection, and take out the radiator support in front to give some room. Drain it, remove the upper and lower hose ends, and lift it out! The A/C lines do tend to get in the way, but just push them out of the way as best you can, possibly with a helper. good luck on your repair.
 

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The top and bottom of the rad has platic sections, These are what everybody calls the end caps and they have a seal that pretty much attaches them to the core of the rad. Sometimes the seal gets old and dry rots, also if the rad has been banged on the end you can crack one of the caps. Pretty much time for a new rad.
 

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I just put in a new rad tonight thanks to some idiot hitting and running my 88 si into a tree. The bottom seal of it had cracked from that and the radiator support had got smashed inward. I pried it out with a block of wood and a crow bar cause I need my car to run. I hope to someday put a new radiator support in though, not looking forward to that. From what I learned I found out that there are 4 different types of radiators for crx's and that they arent the most common item to find. I put an automatic transmission one on mine cause its all I could find though mine crx is obviously a manual. Hopefully it works out!
 

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I hate asking questions that were already answered, but I'm having a bugger of a time getting what I assume to be a stock radiator out of my '89 Si.

I removed the top brackets, disconnected the upper and lower hoses, and that green connector at the bottom (done while underneath).

What I see as a problem is that there is interference between the radiator and the A/C lines and the radiator and the O2 sensor. It's a really, really tight fit. There's a couple of other brackets that I needed to remove that connect the radiator to the A/C lines.

It's hard to see in this picture, but the O2 sensor protrudes into the radiator fan shroud area, and unless I'm not noticing something, I can't lift "up" on the radiator because that sensor is nested into a pocket there.



There also looks to be a good amount of interference between the A/C lines.



Does this look normal to you folks, or is there subtle front-end damage that I can't detect? I don't see anything bent. I can't see how it is possible to pull the radiator without moving the A/C lines and O2 sensor.



I guess that the shop manual, page 5-58, "Radiator Replacement", has that crossmember with the hood latch removed. I'm guessing this needs to come off first.

Cheers,
Paul
 

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My 96 Accord's OEM radiator had a hairline fracture in the top tank. It was so small and thin that I could not see it. I would drive the car and the temp would start to rise to about 3/4 hot, and stop, and just sit there. Everytime I'd stop and get out to look at the radiator, it had already cooled enough such that I didn't see any signs of leaking fluid. I knew there was a leak because I'd see small drips of fluid on the ground after I had been parked for a while. Very slow drip.

I knew it wasn't the water pump or thermostat because those were replaced within the last year with new OEM Honda parts. Only thing it could be is radiator or headgasket. Headgasket checked out ok. I finally found the leak by renting a coolant system pressure tester. I pressurized the radiator and saw small bubbles appearing (from what seemed like no where) from the top tank. Replaced the radiator, all is good.
 

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Removing the fan and shroud from the radiator will give you more room to wiggle the radiator around. Also the headers take up a little more room than the stock exhaust did, but you should still be able to get the radiator out.
 

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warbird said:
Removing the fan and shroud from the radiator will give you more room to wiggle the radiator around. Also the headers take up a little more room than the stock exhaust did, but you should still be able to get the radiator out.
Mr. Warbird, thank you! So are you saying this is not the original exhaust? That might explain why the nuts came free from the studs so easily.

Also, I have a second fan on the right side (looking from the front), attached to the radiator, that I do not see in the shop manual---either in the radiator or A/C sections. Is this an aftermarket non-OEM-style radiator as well, is what I'm wondering...

Thank you very much for your response. I'm a complete noob at this, but am having a lot of fun.

-paul
 

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Thanks to warbird. I got the radiator out.



It's detailed here:

Project CRX - Radiator Removal: The Final Act...

I don't see any mention of that "second fan" in the shop manual, and it looks like this radiator is toast anyway. The bottom radiator mounts are also rusted away and the little rubber pads flaked away from their mounts.

This is going to be a fun project. I'm very thankful for this forum!
 

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Thanks. First "victory" of the project. So after looking through the shop manual some more, I do now realize that the fan on the left side is for the A/C condenser.

I've also learned that those barbs at the bottom that were giving me such trouble appear to be for the transmission cooler lines? That's an A/T only thing, I thought. So this radiator is not likely to be the original radiator.

 

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Most likely not. That looks like a aftermarket radiator.
A tip when you install the new one: Take those two pipes for the trans cooler lines off. It makes it much easier to install.
On some radiators you can just unscrew the pipe part. You'll still have the nut there that seals the hole in the radiator cap. On others it's one piece. On those I just take a hand saw and cut the pipe portion off...makes your life much easier
 
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