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Hey, I just have a couple of questions about this product for anyone who has them installed. Do you have to drill a hole in the frame for the front bolt? Does it go all the way through into the engine bay?

Also, why is there only one bolt hole on the top door hinge mount point? Is that so that you don't have to completely remove your door when installing?
 

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Having installed one of these, here is my take....

First of all, the top-forward hole does not need to be drilled... that is an existing hole. And yea, it goes into the engine bay.

As for the single bolted bracket, it really doesn't need two. It is plenty strong at the door hinge with the single bolt. I don't know if that was for holding the door on or what (likely), but if your doors have never been removed from your car, you could remove all 4 bolts holding it on, and it'd still stay there unless you hit ot or stressed it a lot. the hinges are glued down, MUCH like the hood hinges are... SO, contrary to his instructions, do not open your door and put a jack under it. You risk stressing the door vertically, and cracking that seal. Just leave the door shut and latched.

Now, back to the front hole. I really think there should be two there, because that is a rotational point, whereas the door hinges are supported very well, the chassis could still possibly rotate around that hole. Also, it is highly leveraged to the mounting point. I.E. where the outside of the frame is, is not where the mount point is... it is on the inner frame, about 2.75" or so away from the plate on the brace.... so, if the chassis flexes, that has enough leverage to flex slightly.

One more thing: The hole the bolt goes through on the outside of the frame rail is like 1" in diamter, and there is nothing locating the bolt or the brace to the outer side of the frame, other than friction on the frame itself So, when the leverage allows it to move, it could easily cause scraping wear to the section of the body since it would move independantly of the frame slightly... this could open up bare metal, and the chance of rust to form over time on both the chassis and the brace.

And by the way, i'm not saying all of this to bash the braces or anything.... Robert is a good guy, and i've communicated all of this with him in the past 8)
 

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"So, when the leverage allows it to move, it could easily cause scraping wear to the section of the body since it would move independantly of the frame slightly... this could open up bare metal, and the chance of rust to form over time on both the chassis and the brace. "

How about a (thick) rubber fender washer, (or polyeurothane disc) in there then as a spacer, so as to diminish this "rubbing" feature that you'd described there? Think that this might alleviate that problem @ least somewhat? Have my braces (as of yet uninstalled) and would like to get the total dope on putting them in correctly before tackling the task.
 

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The door hinges are supposed to be glued down? Mine sure weren't. I left the door shut when I did mine, but as soon as the bottom two bolts were out, that hinge just swung freely. Maybe somebody had my doors off before? :?

I'd also like to see longer bolts supplied to replace the bolts on the door hinges, I didn't feel totally confident that there were enough threads holding them in after the brace is in place. My solution was to get everything welded in place.
 

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jfrolang said:
The door hinges are supposed to be glued down? Mine sure weren't. I left the door shut when I did mine, but as soon as the bottom two bolts were out, that hinge just swung freely. Maybe somebody had my doors off before? :?

I'd also like to see longer bolts supplied to replace the bolts on the door hinges, I didn't feel totally confident that there were enough threads holding them in after the brace is in place. My solution was to get everything welded in place.
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh dude

you welded your doory on?

what happens when you need to adjust it for somereason or if you get hit?
 
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