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Removing A/C

3288 Views 19 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  scruffybob42088
As some of you know I rear-ended some chcik and messed up my car. Well after buying a brand new condensor (DOH!) I decided to remove my A/C. The reason for this is because I cant drive with it on! It bogs my engine so bad, I just hate it. So I usually would just put the windows down. But my question is how can I do it 'professionaly' and what all do I take out and is there anything that has to be plugged (holes somewhere?)? Now I have to go about tracking down a *cheap* front end conversion. I have seen the one at PasswordJDM and HMotorsOnline. Any other places? BTW the HMotors website has the front-end conversion as 'Out of Stock', should I call and make sure?
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Every time I check Hmotors they say they are sold out. I want to do this conversion as well. But I am willing to wait for one in great condition and in red so it won't look like crap till I get my car repainted. If I ever find something like that I have cash in hand.
As far as "plugging any holes" I know there is a pass-through box that replaces the evaporator. The evaporator is the big piece inside the car up underneath the glovebox. I do have that spare piece because I actually added A/C to my Si. Let me know if you need it and you can have it for the price of shipping. Let someone confirm if it will fit your HF first though.

Also, you can remove the wiring harness that goes to your compressor, up around the condensor and into the firewall to the ECU. Remove the compressor and compressor bracket (LOTS of weight there), condenser, and the metal lines going to and from the compressor into the firewall.

That's everything off the top of my head. There's probably more.
Don't forget the filter/dryer cannister and A/C fan. You can remove them as well. Also, for the wiring goes through a grommet in the firewall, you can buy a replacement grommet that fills the hole in the firewall and doesn't have holes it in for the wiring.
There is also a plug for the evaporator drain tube...down low on the firewall. If you need it i've got one.
Wow thanks for the responses guys. My car is coming together finally. Im ordering the last stuff I need (atleast from Majestic). Its those damn metal pieces that the headlights go in that Im waiting on! :evil: Then I have to wait on the $700 to make its way through my bowels. Sigh...Not enough money :lol:
OK Need some help. Whats the deal with the belt on there? Can I just cut it off? Will that affect the belt on the alternator? Also could people post a pic of a front end and label the stuff mentioned? Im a picture person :?
With the AC Belt, they are independant of one another. one runs the ac, the other the alt. you could cut the belt i guess, but if you are giving the AC to someone they might want that 11 dollar belt. on the side of the tensioner pully, there is i think a 14 mm bolt which serves to lock the adjuster from moving. losen that, and then with a 10 or 12 mm socket and an 8-12 inch extension, you can relieve tesion on the pully. the adjuster nut is on top of the pully, but towards the motor a bit more. hope that helps

Hope this helps

By the way since you are removing your AC you really don't need your idler pulley and stuff any more. I would gladly take that stuff off your hands.

*By the way that is part 22 on the pic|*
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For lack of a stock engine bay, I can only give you this:

It is a stock A/C system though. There's a wiring harness in there somewhere too - You'll see it as you take things out. It disconnects on the interior side of the firewall grommet.
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Is it true that the window defroster wont work if I remove the AC?
No, I've found that defrosting your windows is purely heat dependant (unless you've got frost on the inside of the window :?), though defoging performance is greatly enhanced by A/C. Cold air has a reduced capacity for carrying water vapor, so when air from the blower passes through the cold evaporator, water vapor in the air collects on it's fins just like it does with a cold glass on a humid day (thus the drain tube). The cooled and dried air then hits the heater core which turns it into hot dry air - perfect for removing moisture from the windshield. Without the A/C, you have to rely on just the heater core to heat the air and increase it's ability to carry water away. It works most of the time, though I've had instances where passing in and out of summer thunderstorms completely overloads the system and fogs the windshield to the point of pulling over.
Dang now I dont know about taking out my A/C :?
In Texas I need the A/C to defrost the windshield. Or maybe defog is a better word. The AC dries the air.
Do you have to take the radiator out to get the condenser out???
scruffybob42088 said:
Do you have to take the radiator out to get the condenser out???
Not really. You might be able to remove the radiator's top brackets and push it back enough to make a gap to lift the condenser up and out through. Really not an ideal solution, and I'm not sure it will even fit.
You can fit the condenser through the top with the radiator in place. You need to remove the t-bar. I think removing the 2 top radiator brackets may give you more room. Just need your 10mm and have at!
OP, if you want to sell your ac setup shoot me a pm.
zrickety said:
You need to remove the t-bar.
The mount points for the T-bar still get in the way.
Wow! Resurrected after 5 years! :lol:
yeah the T-bar mount points definitely get in the way, had to take out the fan in front of the exhaust and completely take out the radiator, not too bad though.
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