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Has anyone replaced their inner tie rods?

I'm asking because, you guessed it, I want to replace them. For those of you who have done it, where it connects to the rack, was there a clear nut-like area for a wrench or something? I was feeling around there, and where it connected to the steering rack on the drivers side there was no such clearly defined area.

I know the inner tie rod pretty much screws into the end of the rack, but I thought there would be a clearer nut-like are to unscrew it. Maybe there is and i just didn't feel it. Putting it up on the lift may make it clearer, but I figured I'd ask here first.

Thanks!

-Stef
 

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theres a lock washer that has bent tabs that cover the end of the tie rod which after you bend back the tabs you can wrench off.

or you can just get an adjustable wrench and force thru the lock washer and replace it with a new one.

its best to just take the whole rack out in order to replace the tie rod. trust me, its less effort than trying to do it while the rack is still bolted.

and since you have the rack off, and especially if youre replacing the passenger side, you really should replace the rack end bushing. it will solve a lot of the sloppy steering and often blamed poor handling of our old crx's with manual steering.

more info.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870
 

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downest said:
Stef you posted! I moved it...

Tyson:
Is it still easier to remove the rack even with a lift?
not quite sure what you mean.

its usually easier to do any work with a lift.

but either way, its the control arms and the swaybar that get in the way from easily wrenching the tie rod in and out. it does help to drop the steering rack from the 4 bolts and still work with it. but still, remove the shift linkage from under the lever and the exhaust (or header) is the best way to work with the rack for sure.
 

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I thought you meant it would be easier to remove the rack to work than to work with it on jackstands... but if the control arms/sway bar are getting in the way then I guess it doesn't matter. The bushings seem to be ok, I drove it a bit when it was still an HF and there weren't any problems with shaking, but maybe we should pick some up anyway.

We could just take that HF sway off and see if it gets mixed up with one of the Si ones I have lying around...
 

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lol. you know, all the times i took off an inner tie rod or replaced that steering rackbushing, not once did i think of just removing the swaybar as it always got in the way...

i think that would help a lot too if you still dont want to remove the whole rack....
 

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tyson said:
downest said:
Stef you posted! I moved it...

Tyson:
Is it still easier to remove the rack even with a lift?
not quite sure what you mean.

its usually easier to do any work with a lift.

but either way, its the control arms and the swaybar that get in the way from easily wrenching the tie rod in and out. it does help to drop the steering rack from the 4 bolts and still work with it. but still, remove the shift linkage from under the lever and the exhaust (or header) is the best way to work with the rack for sure.
What if you used a inner tie rod end removal socket?
 

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Looks like i have some fun times ahead of me.
 

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tyson said:
and since you have the rack off, and especially if youre replacing the passenger side, you really should replace the rack end bushing. it will solve a lot of the sloppy steering and often blamed poor handling of our old crx's with manual steering.
On the subject of sloppy steering, something that has worked for me is to adjust the "rack guide screw" which is the thing with the huge nut securing it below where the steering column attaches to the rack. This adjusts the pressure on the guide that keeps the rack against the pinion, if it gets loose you'll have free play. Of course, after adjusting it you'll want to make sure the steering goes throught the full range without binding (you can get it too tight). It's best to do this with the front wheels off the ground.
 
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