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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so my damn rotors wont bang off at all, i took some mighty swings at them and they won't budge

anyone know if i am missing somethin?

anyother car you give them a bump and they fall off
 

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sure is, those little phillips head screws are what the factory uses to hold the rotors on as the car moves through the assembly line
 

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bittles110 said:
If you mess up the head of the screws, I guess you could drill them out... thats what I had to do with mine.
you can also use easy-outs, they are sorta like a dril bit but bite into the head of the screw with reversed "teeth" so it bites into the screw while you are unscrewing it.

or you can weld a nut to the head of the screw and take it out (comes out easy this way)

or drill it out as well. use oil while drilling to make it easier!
 

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rex2nr said:
we always use a screw-driver bit on a 1/2" wrench and they usually come out pretty easily
yeah, mine usually do too but last time i had one that was damn near impossible to get out. had to weld a nut on it and it came right out. i think the heat more than anything from the welding got it. so maybe a torch on the screw if you are having problems. i dunno
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok so i need to drill them out they are pre stripped for me :cry:

do i need them when i put them back on the car, i have never seen screws holding them in
 

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Well... 'technically', i believe the screws do much more than just hold the rotor for the assembly line. They do a pretty effective job of accurately re-lining and indexing the rotor up so that it sits perfectly center. Without the screws in place, a rotor could be a couple thousandths off-center, and while you may never notice any problem with it, or vibration, or abnormal wear, you could make a case that they arent 'needed'... However, it would be "technically accurate" to reinstall the rotor with the screws in place, because a "couple thousandths out" is still "a couple thousandths out" no matter what the application or importance of that "thousandth".

Besides.... keeping the rotor in place on the assembly line? c'mon, there are way less expensive ways of doing that from a manufacturing perspective. To hold the rotors on with screws required another drilling and tapping operation to the hubs, a drilling and countersinking operation to the rotors, and aquisition and purchasing of God knows how many little screws, not to mention the machinery required on the line to install those screws properly...
 

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I'm with Compo; they might not be strictly NEEDED, but I'm thinking they're there for more than just ease of assembly. Anyway, be glad you're working on a CRX and not an Accord (at least an Accord station wagon). The Accord doesn't get two Phillips screws to hold the rotors on the hubs - it gets FOUR 14mm bolts per rotor! And yes, they are just as prone to seize and strip out (round off). I ended up cutting and drilling at least three of them out of my Accord's hubs when I replaced the rotors and wheel bearings. I hope I never have to repeat either of those tasks.

Mike
 

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I jack the front of the car up using the front crossmember (just below the radiator). There's a little "dip" in the crossmember where it bulges downward a little, just in the center of it. Fits perfectly in my floor jack cradle. Jack it on up, put the jackstands under the jacking points just behind the front wheel openings, and make sure it's good and secure on the jackstands before crawling underneath.

Don't worry about damaging your lower control arm, though. Those buggers are tougher than you'd think. I smacked a curb pretty hard with my old Civic hatchback, and it bent the chassis, NOT the control arm! Cast control arms are strong - stronger than what they're attached to, in fact. Might be why the later Hondas went to stamped arms. Well, that and they're a lot cheaper to manufacture. :)

I had to replace a lower balljoint on my Accord last weekend. The new one cost $30 at the Honda dealership. Not cheap, as such, but not terribly pricey, either. I can't imagine the CRX ones being any more than that, and you know the quality's there. I also paid a machine shop $20 to press the old one out and the new one in. So $50 as the total cost for a bad balljoint. Not too bad, in my book.

Mike
 

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Kwicko said:
The Accord doesn't get two Phillips screws to hold the rotors on the hubs - it gets FOUR 14mm bolts per rotor! ...when I replaced the rotors and wheel bearings. I hope I never have to repeat either of those tasks.
Not to mention you can't do either of those tasks alone. The rotor fits in between the spindle and the hub. The wheel bearing is a press fit which conjoins the hub and spindle. Did I already say what's in between those two parts? I think the way Honda set up the rotor/hub/spindle/wheel bearing assembly on the 90-93 Accord is one of the most dumberest things they ever done did.

And on the rotor screw issue, yes get new ones and put them back tight with a torque driver. They are put there for a reason as John stated. jfyi - I had a come back on an RSX(i think it was) because the rotor screws were only tightened by screwdriver and not by torque driver. There was a mysterious "creek" in the suspension a few days after the car was serviced. Turns out the rotor was shifting around those few thousandths John talked about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks for the info guys, so i need the screws, thats fine, but do i really need to have a shop press fit the ball joints in and out or is there anyway i can do it myself? w/o a brake press?
 

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It's not recommended to try a press fit joint yourself unless you are super well versed in ghettofabulous shade tree mechanics. I myself as the reigning jerry riggin king have not tried it myself without a press. And I doubt I can do one without damaging the joint. Let the guys with the tools and knowhow do it otherwise you'll get more or rather less than you're bargaining for.
 
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