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Since my battery died and I need a new one anyways I was thinking of buying the Odyssey PC680. It is the smallest/cheapest battery I know of that will work well in a CRX. The reason I am looking at getting a smaller battery than stock is A) less weight is always good and B) I am thinking of relocating the battery to my trunk or back compartment. So will this battery work for what I want to do with it?

Here is a link to the battery:
http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ODY-PC680
 

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From personal experience:

These Hawker/Odyssey/Enersys batteries (mine is a Hawker G13, AKA Odyssey PC585 ) are EXCELLENT if:

- You live in moderate temps (sorry Canada!)

- You dont sit around with the stereo or lights on and the car off (sorry audio geeks)

- You know that you only get a few cold starts before you'll need to let the battery re-charge by letting the engine run for a while

- You dont let it sit for months unused.

My Hawker G13 has outlasted 3 regular batteries in my other car. Its fine for me.
 

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I have one now. This is my second. It does not last as long as conventional battery and if you are considering moving it to the trunk then size is less important. If you don't want to move it, and you drive the car daily, it should be fine but I doubt it will last more than 3 years. Not bad, but not as good as conventional. My first one lasted 3 and stopped taking a charge, but maybe thats just my experience. When charged, it has plenty of power to turn over and start engine in my local climate, SW Washington State. NOt sure if it would be enough in the deep north. Maybe someone here from a cold climate has tried it?
 

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It comes with a 5 year warranty over here. Sooooo....that says something about the quality.

I love mine. But yea. Don't leave your lights on or you'll find yourself pushstarting the car.
I haven't had any problems with it since I swapped it in 2 years ago. And we get plenty cold winters and snow here.
Admittedly...it's less cold in the trunk.
 

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Not sure exactly why you'd want to remove weight from the front of a car in a FWD vehicle, not to mention weight from the front right, which it really needs, since the car weight is biased to the left for the most part...

True:


8)
 

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Oh, by the way, one more thing aout those small batteries...

In a high HP application, they are far from ideal. We had one from Heel-Toe in a CRX with Motec that was logging the voltage of the vehicle, and because of its size apparently, under a hard load, like a pass at the track, the voltage of the car was dropping dramatically, causing the car to misfire and not run right. It sucked. We changed out to an oem battery in the car, and it never had that problem since....

Just a thought or two ;)
 

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I have one, and the guy I got my car from had one in it before me for a couple of years, all in upstate NY. I haven't had mine in the winter yet, but he said he never had any problems with it at all. It gets pretty cold here, but I wouldn't say the average is THAT low. I ran a D51 Optima Yellow top last winter, not one complaint about it except the weight. It's stock size so if you aren't relocating the battery to inside the car, it will fit in the stock tray perfectly. The PC680 fits in the cargo box likewise.
 

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jfro: Not necessarily... depends on what you are doing with the car... 50/50 is "balanced", but not necessarily "ideal" depending on your setup, and intended form of racing... and no, i don't just mean drag racing. Also, having proper corner balancing is more important than the 50/50 F-R number... L-R is more important for consistancy from right to left transitions.

imo of course, but what do i know? I've been wrong before... but just another idea, is that a good friends ITA SCCA CRX Race car balances out nearly perfectly for his car to handle 100% (but its not 50/50 ;) ), and the battery is stock sized, and in the stock location, and thats with minimal balasting, but what balast he does have is in the passenger floorboard, and not towards the back of the car... and this is a very competitive and very well handling car. I also happened to drive it at last years FLCRXMeet autocross :p

Oh, and the power level on that CRX was just about 450whp at that time... we were trying to push it, but the voltage wouldn't let it go any further. HOWEVER, the voltage drop was already out of reasonable specs before it ever saw ajny real boost... i.e. stock motor under full throttle load, like a 3rd gear pull on the highway... it was losing more voltage than it should have been. That can't be all that great.

Another thing, is that due to the added load on the alternator, an alternator change was not too far behind the battery change... it got hurt pretty bad.

So a result like that is most likely accelerated in a case like that, but there is the definite possability that over time, the result would be the same in a lower hp car... it'll just take it longer to get there if/when it gets there.

I personally think it is worth it to run a larger oem-size battery in the front of the car somewhere. Its the way Honda designed it, and sometimes they DO get things right ;) Besides, TECHNICALLY speaking, if you relocate the battery anywhere but under the front of the car, you are required to run some sort of external on/off switch if you ever plan on racing it at a drag strip.... granted, most tracks are not anal enough to do a tech check, and notice this, but a lot are. Also, running a battery in the back, now you get to add like 5 lbs of wire to run back and forth to it... :p

But anyhoo... do whatever you want to do dude... its your car. These batteries have lasted in other cars... i'm just giving you my personal experience with them, and a few other opinions about the idea :) As long as whatever you do, you do it "right".
 

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SETI20 said:
I personally haven't experienced any strange fluctuations in voltage while logging my car. Using the zeitronix open port.
Actually when I was on the dyno I was having a misfire problem going into VTEC. I checked the voltage and it had some drop. I did not know if it was enough however. I added some high octane fuel and it went away. Maybe it WAS the voltage after all!!
 

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Everything's a tradeoff. Talking strictly weight, a big battery up front will give you some extra traction to put the power down, but a rear-mounted battery will let you turn in a little bit sharper. Moving the battery to the rear doesn't mean you have to upset the left/right balance either, though it certainly affects the individual corners. The main advantage that I see is the extra room in the engine bay for, I don't know, perhaps a water-to-air intercooler. 8)

I'm guessing here, but I would wager that a CRX with a B-swap leaves enough weight in the front to replace the weight lost from a moved battery, even more so with an intercooled forced induction setup.

The laws of physics cannot be denied of course, so a smaller battery just won't have the juice that a larger battery will with today's technology. You have to look at your individual needs to make that decision. My personal goals with my CRX don't require me to win autocrosses or SPL competitions or shows or drag races, so I think I would be happy with a rear-mounted Hawker battery.
 

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the oem honda battery you would buy from the dealer you can get from Interstate Battery. We service Honda/Acura as a national account and the Interstate MT-51 is the same battery that you would buy from honda, just without the honda labels. :wink:
 
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