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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
BATmoREX said:
Sweet!!!!!!! :)b Love those Fenders btw. How were the fitment issues on them?
I've been actually been thinking about getting some...
Well considering that my bumper and hood aren't OEM and have some fitment issues, the OsakaJDM fenders fit pretty well, I'm probably going to chop off the bottom of the fender where the trim would be and call it a day. Everything else lines up pretty well
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
KevinEF7 said:
Nihkon had the exact fitment issues with both hood and bumper aswell, they must have [crummy] molds. Sucks for how much they cost like you said.

K20!
Yup, I talked to some other folks who had the bumper once and they said the exact same thing. Probably not gonna do anything about it though, just going to zip tie it to the fenders when they get here
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Did a little bit of work today on the car

Washed the 10 pounds of sand off that was sitting behind the fenders. Forgot to take pics of it but there was a lot of it

Installed the fenders as well, most of it lines up pretty well but there was a slight difference between the two. Going to have to make a extension for the bumper or something so it lines up properly.

Still waiting for the hardware from Honda so I can install the corner lights and I have spacers being machined so I can fill up the extra space. Hopefully by next week those will be on












Swapped out my Trust shift knob for this Pivot one I had laying around


Also bought some Megan Racing extended studs (Heard they're make in the same factory as ARP) +
H&R 25mm spacers


Planning on pressing out the studs on the spacer and running it as a slip on. Currently they're waiting to be machined since they're actually ones for Toyotas (54.1mm). Speed Factor gave them to me for half off so I said why not, beats paying $200 for ones made for a Honda.

I think I may have miscalculated the size of spacer I need since the fenders have a little lip on them. I'm pretty sure the tire won't hit but if it does I'll be trimming the fender.
 

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So the front camber is staying as is and you're spacing the wheels to meet the fender?

Couldn't you get the tire/fender closer to flush by adjusting the camber, or is it further off than the photos depict?
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
razordave said:
So the front camber is staying as is and you're spacing the wheels to meet the fender?

Couldn't you get the tire/fender closer to flush by adjusting the camber, or is it further off than the photos depict?
Yeah it's staying as it is for now, if I removed some of the camber and bring it to around -3ish like before I would still need a 15mm spacer or so to bring it close to the fender.

I'll be getting my spacers back from my friend who is machining them hopefully next week, he's just waiting on some parts for his new machine.

Also I got laid off last week so updates are going to be even slower than before. I still have some parts to install at home so maybe I'll do those soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Ok so time for a smallish update

As you may know I got laid off a few weeks ago so I sold off a bunch of things so I can pay off my bills for this month. Cool parts are nice but not being in debt is better.

Anyways I received my spacers back from Nish and I was going to install them until I realized that I have to press out the hub to install the extended studs. So that'll be on the back burner until I get another job.

Picked up the K20 this week after making room for it in the garage. Thanks again to Shaun for letting me borrow his engine hoist so I could get it. Engine looks like it's in good shape, probably going to tear it down and do a oem rebuild on the bottom end and do some mild valve train upgrades as well before I install it. The swap came with the shifter box, cables and ecu as well but the ecu has a hole on the side of the metal cover so I'm hoping that it's still good.




Spent the last few hours doing research about K swaps n stuff. Managed to figure out a good chunk of what I need to do to make it work with the SiR chassis since its slightly different vs non SiR.

For the mounts I pretty much have to mod all of them, I have to measure 120mm from the seam sealer on the strut tower for the weld in mount on the driver side/US passenger side. Then on the passenger side/US drivers I have to space out the mount a little bit due to the car having a factory B16 vs D series engine. The mount for the factory B series sits further back and is a little bit larger than the mount made for the D series. The part that I'm a little bit confused on is the rear mount. I have to use a mix match of parts from the EK K swap kit and EF due to the subframe being different since the car has a factory B16. I also may or may not have to weld in that mount and elongate the hole a bit for it to work, that part I'm not to sure on.

For axle situation I decided to do the poor mans 5 lug conversion which consists of using 97-01 Honda CRV hub (yes, you read that right, CRV hubs) and getting them machined down to fit the bearing. For those who don't know if you want to go 5 lug on a EF chassis you have to use 90-91 Civic EX knuckles or SiR knuckle since they're the same and use 90-91 EX/SiR bearings. I believe you can use a DA knuckle on a EF but you may have some alignment issues so dont quote me on that. Reason im using CRV hubs vs ITR ones is because the CRV hubs are 36mm like the JDM ITR hubs and they're way easier to get. Being 36mm it allows me to use OEM Type S or Type R axles instead of those stage 34543567456 swap axles that most companies make. Type S/R axles are rated to 350whp which is good enough for me. You could also use USDM ITR hubs but those are 32mm and you'd have to use a hybrid axle or those swap axles. The good thing about having SiR knuckles is that OEM ITR and Spoon DC2 calipers bolt right on without any mods. Again DA knuckles may be able to do that as well but I'm not to sure about it.

Fuel system seems easy, probably just going to get a swap kit for it which includes the AN lines, fittings and FPR.

Another somewhat confusing part is what to do for cooling. I may be able to move the inlets on my Koyo rad to the other side to and use some Hybrid racing swap hoses keep the cost down but if that's not possible I may have to get a tucked rad and figure out what to do with the hoses from there.

For the shifter box I would like to make a box for it to sit on so it sits higher up like the Banzai Attack EF3 and Shane's EG from Team Limit. Only thing Im not to sure on is where to put the hole for the shifter cables. Not sure if I want to cut a hole in the firewall for them to pass through or cut a hole on the floor between the firewall and factory shifter location.

So if you managed to read all of this, swapping a K series into a SiR EF Civic/CRX takes a little bit more work compared to non SiR.

Also scooped up some cheap 5 lug wheels for when I convert later on this year

17x9 +22 Watanabe GR8

17" may seem a little bit large but I think I can pull it off. Won't be running 17" in the rears, I'll probably run 16x7 in the back
 

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Very cool man! How long have you had this car? When I was in High School I was still rocking my LHD Si, I would be crazy jealous of you! Back then I never dreamed of owning an SiR :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
budget_crx said:
Very cool man! How long have you had this car? When I was in High School I was still rocking my LHD Si, I would be crazy jealous of you! Back then I never dreamed of owning an SiR :lol:
Thanks, it'll be 2 years this June. Wish I had it earlier when I was in high school tho lol. Picked it up the day before my last day
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Long time no see folks, quite a bit has happened since the last update so lemme give you the run down of what happened since then.

First things first, I crashed the car.


After that I parted the car out and sold the car to my buddy where it sat outside at my other friend's body shop for awhile untouched.

About a year or so later I ended up buying a JZX100 Chaser

[


Then about a year after owning that car I sold it for a Midori EK20 hatch




I owned that for about a year as well before getting T boned in it last summer at like 5km/h, took the insurance money and got the car back from them and parted it out.



At that time I didn't really know what i wanted to get next to mess around with but I've always wanted to get my old crx back, so I decided to hit up my buddy who I sold it to and asked him if he wanted to sell it. At this point the car just got the front end fixed maybe a few months before, I always kept up with my buddy to see what kind of progress he did to it and always hounded him to sell it back to me. Luckily for me, he agreed!

This is the first time I saw the car again in person in about 3ish years since I sold it






Before I even got the car back to my house I began buying parts for the car. I got another chassis harness off yahoo auction because I thought a part of the headlight harness got melted from the crash. Turns out the melted part of the harness was on the ac harness, so I just unplugged it and removed it from the vehicle. Luckily it wasn't the chassis harness because the one I got was cut in a few spots and I think had an alarm or something attached to it at one point. I also started to stock pile whatever bnib moldings and misc items I could find and also managed to find some repro door seals as well.




Around September last year was when I got the car back to my house and started to dig into it since I knew that the car needed a refresh, even when I had it the first time around I knew it needed some maintenance but didn't really do anything about it. This time around I wanted to do it all and do it right.




When I was going thru the car I noticed a crack along the passenger side door and decided to investigate, what I found wasn't to good... I guess back in Japan the car had been hit along the side and instead of properly fixing it they just slapped on a bunch of bondo and painted over it, which is pretty common from imported cars from what I heard over the years. So be aware folks if you're looking into a jdm vehicle.



At this point I started stripping the car down to the shell so I could freshen up the bushings and paint the interior and what not







Towards the end of the year I ended up living by myself at one of our house's that we were trying to sell at the time so that meant a full garage all to myself



A few weeks later I prepped my engine bay for paint, I decided to do primer with clear over top or
"battleship grey" as some people call it, mostly due to the fact that cans of primer are cheap and I got 2k clear in a can at cost from work. I kinda jumped the gun on this one since I didn't realize that my trans mount was bent and the bolt wouldn't thread in properly and I missed a few spots so you could still see the black. I ended up sanding it back down and will respray it after mock up is all done.





When I got the car back the SiR front wasn't in the best shape as you could tell by the photos, the front hood came from another car that flew up on the highway, the headlights were another pair I had on hand when I sold the car since the tabs were destroyed when I crashed on the good set I was running at the time. Same thing with the bumper lights, lenses were in good shape but the tabs were busted off and the bumper was hacked up by the fog light area.

I was looking on ebay when I first got the car back and saw that they started to reproduce the edm single bulb headlights for non face lift vehicles so I decided that I was going to run 88-89 front end since I always liked it.
I ended up trading the cut up sir bumper that was on my car and the hood to someone else I knew who had an 88-89 setup minus the lights so I did a trade with him, strange I know. I ended up getting the repro headlights off ebay and they fit OK but had some gaps that I wasn't to happy with so I decided to go back to the face lift front.





Up until maybe early 2019 I was planning on doing a B20v into the crx, I took the head off the B16 that was originally with the car and sold the short block and trans for dirt cheap since no one really wants that stuff around here. I picked up a big spline YS1 cable trans because I was planning on putting a 96' itr gear set in it and had a 3 puck clutch that was practically brand new, all I needed was a lsd and the trans was pretty taken care of. The B20 block I had was a very low km motor which had about 30-40k on it only, I had a block guard, YCP pistons, aebs intake manifold and a few other things for the motor but had to part out that setup when I thought I had to get rid of the car. Long story short I didn't have to sell the car but I sold a lot of my B series stuff in the process, so I said screw it and decided to go K series again.






I acquired a K20 long block that was disassembled from my friend and traded him the B20 block plus cash for it and started to collect parts over the next few months. I ended up getting a trans, mount kit, traction bar and shifter setup before summer and finally started working on the car again after a few months of not touching it.







While I was waiting for parts/saving up I painted the interior the same grey primer with clear over top and I thought it turned out pretty decent.










After that I started tossing the chassis harness back in and began to route the headlight harness for a tuck




Also bought an AEM fuel pump to replace the original one that was in the car, I was pretty worried that the inside of the tank would be all rusty but it was spotless inside!



I was originally planning to fix the damage on the passenger side door but I decided to just swap out another door since it was easier and the power window regulator was dead on that side. To replace that regulator was gonna be over $200 shipped for a used one... Instead me and my buddy went halfers on a parts car so I just replaced the door and left the manual window setup in it, the drivers side will be converted to manual windows as well.



Quickly tossed in the carpet, dash and centre console in, just to look at for a bit


Bought a uncut rbc intake manifold from another one of my buddy's but ended up traded it for a cut one for my k20a2 head from a buddy who needed an uncut one. As you can tell a lot of my parts came from my friends lol


My rear calipers were all rusty and gross so I took a wire wheel and drill to them then hit them with some high temp paint. I got some CRV/ITR/CTR calipers from my buddy and did the same to those as well. Those will need new seals and pistons before they go on the car.





I ended up getting a shifter box and oem cables off my buddy who also supplied a lot of the parts for my K swap and quickly cut my centre console to fit the shifter. Im using a "ktuned" base plate that I bought for $20 from China. I plan on using the stock box with hybrid racing bushings in each end of the shifter cables and some upgraded shifter springs from mtec. I had those springs in my ek20 hatch and it was a night and day difference with them in. No need for fancy shiny shifter box here.




So between me getting the K20 long block I also picked up a K24 block which I was gonna use to run K24/20 on, so this first mock up is with the K24 block and K20 head but I just recently decided to run the K20 long block instead since It was more complete. First mock up went well, had to trim a little bit of the subframe for trans clearance but it was pretty good. Its a tight fit in there but it fits. I'll make another post about doing a K swap in factory B series EF's since there's a little bit more work involved with it.



Since I was planning on running K24/20 at the time of mock up I had to trim a little bit of the skeleton of my Js hood that I kept from the crash. It's going to get fixed and painted so no need to get another one, plus they don't even make them anymore so I have to fix it at this point.





I did another mock up a few weeks later after I got my rear mount tack welded on the subframe since I can't just bolt it up to the subframe (different on SiR). I also tossed quickly tossed on my Innovative traction bar, the SiR chassis uses the DA integra front cross member. When the car got put on the frame machine and fixed they didn't have a cross member on hand so my holes were slightly off by .5" or so, so I reamed them out a little bit and it fits fine. I originally had an issue with one of the front forks hitting against the radius rod but that was due to a sagged bushing. The front control arm bushings ended up getting replaced with Hard Race hardened rubber ones. Most of the bushings on this car will be from them.




A buddy of mine who is also an ef guru painted my fuel pump cover, filler neck cover and a plug that popped out of my floor at work. I was just gonna spray them primer with clear but he insisted to paint them so I gave them to him and got them painted black


Since I was going K series that meant that I had to either convert to hydro or run the hasport cable to hydro adapter and that was something I didn't want to do. For LHD cars this is easy since you would just get the Hush Performance kit and convert it but with RHD it was a bit harder. Up until a few years ago no one made a kit for RHD cars so you had to make your own. When I got the car back I did some researching and found a company called EFED Conversions out of New Zealand who makes a very trick conversion kit. Check out his page on facebook or Instagram under the same name, if you have a RHD car this is the kit to use hands down. He has a detailed thread on OZHonda about the R&D on this kit he makes.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread ... Conversion






Just last weekend I crossed the border into the States for about 30 mins and picked up my Js bumper that I order during the summer to replace the one that I blew up when I crashed. Pretty damn expensive but worth every penny imo, there isn't any other bumper that I would run on the crx, for me it has to be the Js one. I also grabbed a VW Scirocco radiator that I ordered off ebay that will be used as my budget tucked radiator. After watching the Vtec Academy budget K24 CRX series using his radiator I decided it was the one to go with, I ended up getting the smaller version which is 100mm shorter but leaves me room for oil cooler hoses if I decide to run one.



I'm probably missing a lot of things but I did this pretty late so I'll add more things that I missed a some pics when I have some free time.

Good to be back folks
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Nicky's 91Si said:
welcome back brother!! love all the new progress man!! i have a js hood and bumper to install myself so ill be frequenting to check on your installs! car is coming together great!
AZCRXSI said:
Wow, nice update! Quite the journey you have been on! :)b

Great pics. Cant wait for more.
Nicky's 91Si said:
welcome back brother!! love all the new progress man!! i have a js hood and bumper to install myself so ill be frequenting to check on your installs! car is coming together great!
Thanks guys, Im very happy to have my car back again after these 3 or so years. I also updated my last post with some more pics as well.

I guess I haven't really talked about what I'm going to be doing to the motor, I'm not going to do much to it performance wise other than I/H/E and a tune but it'll just mostly be a reseal using mostly oem parts and some aftermarket ones where I find it's needed. These motors already put out some good power with bolt ons so I don't want a lot of power for this car since I'm aiming for it to weigh around low 2000 to high 1900lbs. My transmission is a from a later model DC5 and will have some sort of lsd (definitely needed) and either a 4.7 or 5.0FD. I had a 5.0FD on my EK20 hatch and that thing ripped but the cruising rpm wasn't that nice.

Since my K20 was partially disassembled I was missing a few things, luckily someone out in the east coast of Canada was parting a few Type S motors and snagged a few things that I was missing. A local shop has a fuel injector cleaning machine so I'll be taking my 310cc injectors there to get cleaned and serviced later on this year or early next year. I have a Tractuff swirl pot coming sometime next week so expect an update when that comes in!

 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Earlier this week I received some parts from Rob over at TracTuff, ended up getting a swirl pot, rear coolant outlet pipe with -10 fitting and this fitting that going into the thermostat housing that has a -10 end on it.

Originally there would be a metal hard pipe attached to the plastic thermostat housing and will route around the side of the cylinder head and end at the back of it where a heater hose would attach to. Since I wasn't planning on running a heater I didn't get one with my plastic housing and was going to be capped. This fitting allows you to run a -10 for your heater, there's also a -6 version as well. I also wasn't sure if the metal pipe would even fit with the swirl pot in the way so I decided to get this and run braided hose for my heater lines.The two fittings will have -8 reducers and the hoses will run to an aftermarket heater in the car.

This swirl pot was a piece that I always wanted to get since I had my EK20 hatch but never had the money for it, luckily for me he was running an offer on his parts that I couldn't ignore and I scooped one up. I ended up getting the options for the 5/8 barbed fitting for the recirculation line and for a coolant temp sensor up top on the neck. I also got it to use domestic style radiator caps since I can get Stant ones locally for very cheap.





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sloppyclock said:
razordave said:
The directions are right on the tag ;) don't you speak japanese?

jk, I have no clue what that says, but that is dope!

Btw, I love that 240! I thought I wanted the older ones with the flip up headlights, but yours has me sold.
I still haven't figured it out haha. That 240 isn't mine, its the buyers who bought my old Bride Zero. He has a really nice 240sx hatch too with a lot of nice parts on it.

So I went to the JDM river today and sacrificed my kevlar Vios and in return, I managed to fish out a rare CF Mugen fuel cell cover made for a EK civic. Went and test fitted it and surprisingly it almost fits. Just a bit of trimming on the right side of the strut tower and it fits, I tossed it back into the river since I wasn't worthy (for now...)

Also, on a sad note, I found out where the water is coming in to my hatch when it rains and I found out its coming from a small hole covered by a very small amount of rust near the weather stripping. Going to pull it off when I drop it off for paint and hopefully it isn't too bad. Might have to do a patch job until I can do it properly in the winter if it turns out bad.
LMAO! I haven't seen that thing in years. Thought Colin had bought it for his EK years ago.
Anyway, the warning on the door is a reminder. Pretty sure it's to put on your seatbelt, can't remember.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
signalpuke said:
LMAO! I haven't seen that thing in years. Thought Colin had bought it for his EK years ago.
Anyway, the warning on the door is a reminder. Pretty sure it's to put on your seatbelt, can't remember.
Danville had it up until earlier this year when he finally sold the thing

Just another quick update, I bought some universal Js Racing flares on black friday and they showed up earlier this week. Apparently these were the last set that Js Racing had in stock and have been discontinued.



I quickly put the drivers side lights on and toss the hood on so I could take a few pictures. Don't mind the gaps, nothing is bolted on except for the fenders and the bumper is just on the 2 plastic guides on the fender.



Earlier today my buddy lent me 3 15x8 Work CR01 wheels with offsets ranging from +22 to +48 so I could see how much room I have under these flares. Pictured is 15x8 +35 with a 225/50 A048 tire and a 15x8 +22 with no tire. There's about 15mm to the inner lip of the flare and roughly 20mm to the outer edge of the flare with the +35 wheel and tire. Couldn't really gauge the +22 that well but I think with the same tire on it would be almost flush with the flare.


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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
signalpuke said:
If you're planning on going 5-lug, I'd recommend looking for sets of wheels made for the R32/R33 GTR. You can find them for cheap, and most of them will be sized around 16x9+22 which would fit perfect.
A buddy of mine has a set of R32 wheels if I were to go that route, iirc the R32 ones are 16x8 +32(?) and the R33 ones are 17x9 +22. Tr Motorsports has a 15x9 +36 in 4x100 that's priced pretty reasonable so I might grab those for up front for now and see if I can run a 245 on them then order some 2p work meisters or something
 
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