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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Hey folks long time no see, been busy in the last few months so I haven't really gotten anything done plus it's been cold in the garage so I have no motivation to do anything whatsoever. But as usual in those few months I've been acquiring some parts whenever I see some deals.

Picked up some Spoon rep mirrors for about $20CAD from the local speed shop that did a huge garage sale of a bunch stuff they had laying around. I'm curious to see what the view is going to be like but I do know someone who makes rhd lenses so may have to get those if needed.


One day at work one of my co workers was talking to me and mentioned swapped his motor out of his Element for a lower km one and asked me if I wanted it for $250. So as usual I impulse bought it and now was planning on doing a K24/20 again.


Now that I had acquired that motor I wouldn't need to get new bolts and sensors for my swap since I was trying to keep it pretty budget still. The K24 block and K20 block I had were disassembled and were missing almost all the bolts and sensors so this would cut down the cost quite a bit. I started to look for a set of used tsx piston and rod combo for the K24 block to replace the Element ones and so began my nightmare for the next month or two.

The first set I bought I got off the k20a Facebook page I bought towards mid Jan were supposed to be shipped within a few days but didn't get a tracking number after a week. Messaged the seller and said he had some personal things come up which is fine, things happen so I kept on waiting. Another week went by and still nothing, so I messaged him again and he said he got into an accident with his truck and it's in the tow yard and the receipt with the tracking number is inside. He was supposed to send it after he went to the yard to grab it and yet again no tracking number. So at this point its been around 3 weeks at this point and I knew that I wasn't going to be getting this parts so I filed a claim and ended up getting my money back. The was the first time in all my years of buying stuff off the internet where someone tried to scam me.

The second set of pistons and rods I got was from the same Facebook page but different member, great to deal with, sent me photos and videos of the pistons and rods and told me he would get them out same day. Sent the money and got a tracking number next day as promised. About 2 weeks go by before they show up and once I opened the package all hell broke loose. The guy took all the end caps off the rods and just tossed them in the box along with the bolts and put the pistons and rods in with no padding or anything. So the whole time the bolts and caps were flying around damaging the pistons and caps during shipment. Not to mention the caps were all mixed up now and can't correctly match up which cap is for which rod :yell: :yell: :yell:

So now at this time I was just fed up with everything and decided to just scrap the idea of going K24/20. Now I was planning on using the K20 block since It had pistons and rods already in it and just needed an oil pump and pan then the bottom end would be complete.

During the whole piston and rod ordeal I did find a good deal on an K20 aluminum pan and Type S oil pump kit from another member on the k20a fb page. I know using an used oil pump isn't the greatest idea but the listed said the pump was brand new when put on the engine and only had a few thousand miles on it before he parted out his car. It also was a complete Type S kit so it had the chain tensioner, guide, chain, windage tray and bolts for everything plus it was already notched for a K24 block. I stuck up a deal with him since he also had the aluminium pan for sale. I was worried that the pan and pump kit would show up damaged like the the pistons but to my relieve they came in fine. I brought the pump and chain to work to clean them in the parts cleaner before they were to get installed



Yet again one day while I was scrolling on the k20a fb page I noticed someone selling a TracTuff billet thermostat cover which was something I was looking to get down the line. But yet again the price was too good to resist and impulse bought it.



Around this time it was starting to warm up so I took the time one day to clean up my side of the garage which was a complete mess. Didn't take a before photo but I cleaned it up a lot and organized a few things to free up a lot of space.


After that I had some motivation so I pulled the motor out yet again and took the subframe off so I could get the rear mount welded up. I only got it tacked on last time to confirm placement so I took it back to my buddy where he adjusted the mount and welded it in place.


Since now the plan is to use the K20 again I went to look for a cylinder gasket kit for it since it had every gasket I need for the head and came with a head gasket. I was going to order the oem Honda one thru work but one day I found one from a Canadian parts retailer that had one for half the cost as oem and even listed the oem part number. I was curious to see if it actually was an oem gasket kit or not so I bought it along with a Hondata intake manifold gasket and Hybrid Racing RBC to PRB throttle body adapter.

When the packaged showed up I quickly opened to see if that gasket kit was in fact the oem Honda one but it turned out to be an aftermarket one. I wasn't disappointed or anything I kinda figured it would be for that price but I had to take a chance. I did some Googling and from what I gathered the company who makes my gasket kit is called Ishino in Japan and sell parts under Stone. If what I read is correct Ishino is the manufacturer for a lot of Honda's gaskets so the quality of them is very good if not the same as oem.


At this point it's almost mid March then the whole covid-19 thing ramps up and things are changing fast. I just finished my aerospace course and had an interview with a company a week before which I had high hopes for, things were looking great and the motor didn't need a lot of work so I was on track to getting the car running by the time I wanted it to but things started to fall apart, fast. Hours got cut at my part time job at first then ended up getting laid off all together, the company I interviewed for put the hiring process on hold and the Canadian dollar is dropping fast. This threw a wrench in my plans very quickly and now I've pretty much put the car on hold until next year. I was really pushing to get it out this year but with how things are looking it's just not a smart choice and track dates are up in the air currently and may not run this year at all.

For about a week I was pretty bummed out and lost all motivation to do anything again but decided to get up off my ass and put some work into the crx since I had the time to do so. I put the subframe back on and dropped the motor back in for like the 5th or 6th time along with the rbc manifold and swirl pot. I didn't put the throttle body adapter on yet but that would cause some new issues to be find only a few days later.


A few days later I tossed the front and rear suspension on minus the struts, borrowed a pair of 15x8 Work CR01 w/ 225/50/15 tires off my buddy and dropped the car on the ground. I wanted to gauge what the car would look like with that setup since I was planning on running that tire and wheel size anyways. Once I stood back after lowering the car on the ground I just looked and admired. The front height was near perfect of what I wanted it to be maybe slightly higher or lower but the back needed up come up a little bit to match but looked sick the way it was. I quickly put the headlights, corner lights, bumper and hood on and just admired it for awhile. Seeing it like this really motivated me to keep on going after seeing it on jack stands for so many months. (Sorry for the quality of photos at this point, my iPhone 6s isn't holding up as well as it used to)






The next day I went back into the garage to toss on the adapter plate and the rsx throttle body that I had kicking around for a few months and came into this issue which I kinda thought I would run into. I didn't have enough room for the throttle cable bracket that would bolt onto the throttle and for the cable itself, the swirl pot that I had bought is in the way and it looks like there would be an issue with having an intake installed too.



TracTuff offers two styles of swirl pots for the K20 and the one I got is V2. The V1 has the tank further back beside the valve cover so that would have cleared the cable and bracket. So normally you would just sell the swirl pot and get the V1 right? Well that's kind of easier said then done since a lot of the TracTuff products are customized to order and people may want different options. Plus once again I got this piece for a hell of a deal and there was no way I would be getting that again so I did the crazy thing and sold the rbc manifold and adapter. Why? I figured it was easy to sell the manifold and to get something else vs selling the swirl pot and ordering a new one, mainly due to the fact I can save money on a used manifold whereas I would have to order the swirl pot new.

I started to look into other manifolds that would work and my only option would have to be a center feed manifold since it does not come close to the tank and the intake would not run by it either. Yeah I know, the rbc is better suited for a stock K20 with bolt ons and the center feed is crazy overkill but whatever. After some looking I set my eyes on the Xcessive Manufacturing intake manifold mainly due to the fact that it was the cheapest option out there. :rofl:


Once again while scrolling the k20a fb page I stumbled upon someone selling this manifold w/ the optional velocity stacks and Q45 throttle body. I didn't really want the Q45 throttle body so I sent him an offer for it without it and to my surprise it took it! I got it sent to the border along with my Type S harness and Karcepts fuel rail that I also bought a few weeks before and will be picking them up after the border re-opens.

Now that I have this manifold I started thinking about doing the K24/20 build again and maybe saving up for an used cnc ported head and cams to really make use of this manifold since it turns out that it has the big boy 58mm intake runners vs the 50mm that is also offered. So this build may or may not snowball really fast lol. I'm hoping that the border opens up within the next month so I can bring some more updates but that's all for now folks.
 

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Wow, what a crazy ride along! Covid19 is screwing everything up for everyone. argh.

Here is hoping to get things settled in for yourself and then are able to move forward again.

The whole time I was reading and thinking about the build... yes! no... definitely not... yes! no... no... maybe... no... yes! nope... yet something continues to pop up and keep you going. :)b

lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
AZCRXSI said:
Wow, what a crazy ride along! Covid19 is screwing everything up for everyone. argh.

Here is hoping to get things settled in for yourself and then are able to move forward again.

The whole time I was reading and thinking about the build... yes! no... definitely not... yes! no... no... maybe... no... yes! nope... yet something continues to pop up and keep you going. :)b

lol
Yeah that's for sure, hope everyone is doing OK during these tough times.

Lots of ups and downs with this one but wouldn't be fun without them haha, I will prevail this time around no matter how long it takes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Hello everyone, thought I'd post an update of what I've been up to for the past few months since the last post.

First off, hope everyone has been well during these times. I ended up getting the job I was talking about and started at the end of April. Finally making good money now and I've been treating myself well as you'll see further down this post. Acquiring parts as increased ten fold I'd say and I've decided to upgrade a lot of things where I originally tried to save a few bucks here and there.

Off the top of my head I've ordered (* parts received):

PCI front upper control arms
Radium direct mount fpr
Honed developments booster delete*, front and rear geometry kit, rear camber arm, solid rack bushings, trailing arm gusset kit
Hardrace inner and outer tie rods*
Karcepts 36mm hubs*
OEM tail light gasket kit*
TracTuff swirl pot*, overflow tank*, oil chain baffle*, main girdle plug*
Unit2 Fabrication baffled steel oil pan*
Rywire brake line tuck kit*, chassis harness adapter
Autopower roll bar
Osaka JDM V2 fenders
Hardrace rear lower control arms
Mfactory 1.0way plated lsd
Clear bumper light lenses
ASR rear subframe brace + 24mm sway bar kit
Custom indoor cover
Hybrid Racing v2 shifter*, shifter bushings*
Checkerd Sports hub*
Karcepts fuel rail + iacv block off plate*
Acuity shifter selector springs*
x2 15x8 +22 Work CR01*
x2 245/40R15 Hankook RS4*
x2 225/45R15 Hankook RS4*

As you can see, I've been knocking things off the list fairly quickly. On the flip side I haven't had a lot of time to work on the car since I'm pretty tired after work these days. I've managed to do a few things here and there so lets get on to it.

In the last post I talked about how I had that issue with my swirl pot and my rbc manifold, so I went a bought a center feed manifold. That was stuck at the border along with a few other things for awhile but I did manage to get them after I got a courier company to go grab my packages for me. During that time I actually ended up trading it along with my swirl pot for another rbc manifold plus cash because the center feed manifold had 58mm runners. I was hoping they were the smaller 50mm but they were the bigger version which was way too big for a stock motor and I didn't want to spend the money on a built motor. To go with the rbc manifold I ordered another swirl pot, but one that would work with the manifold and an overflow tank to go along with it.

After I got the center feed from the border I quickly tossed it on to see what it would look like and to see if I could even run it if I wanted to. Turns out it would've been a pretty tight fit, so I was better off with the rbc manifold in the end. The manifold had this really nice textured finish which Im pretty sure wasn't factory but I did like it





For my shifter setup I was originally planning on using a stock shifter box with stock cables with upgraded shifter bushings to save a little bit of cash but after getting hired I decided to upgrade. A buddy of mine had a hybrid racing v2 rsx shifter box for sale so I asked how much he wanted shipped for it since I'm up in Canada. He gave me a great price and I had to have it. He even toss in a shift knob which I quite like, feels nice in the palm of my hand. Right away you could tell how much more solid this was over the worn out oem shifter box I had. Thinking about getting another center console trim piece to replace mine since I trimmed it for the bigger oem box.




To go with the hybrid racing shifter box I also ordered hybrid racing shifter bushings for stock cables. They're a cheap upgrade for stock shifter cables and get rid of the old worn out ones. Unless you're cables are stretched there isn't a need to get the race spec cables in my books. Installation is super easy, only hard part was taking out one of the old rubber bushings. I even managed to save a few bucks by finding an open box set from an online retailer that I frequently use.





After getting the new shifter in I quickly cleaned out the interior of the car since it had been used as a storage unit for a few months. A quick vacuum and wipe down did the trick for the interior so I tossed on my Checkerd Sports hub that had been at the border with my manifold. I used to have one of these a few years ago with the horn function but they seemed to be discontinued for EF/DA up until a little while ago when Raul mentioned he was taking pre orders for a small batch of EF hubs again. I knew I had to get one even though I would have to figure out how to wire in my horn button. There's also a slim version which I'm debating about getting if there's any left by the time I want to get one.







After getting the interior back in again I noticed that my column is kinda pushed towards the right when I was looking closely at it. I can't seem to get it to straighten out for the life of me. I thought I had the steering joint on backwards so I flipped it around. Apparently I had it right the first time and flipped it back to what it was before and make sure that the column sat as deep as possible into the joint. I managed to get it to straighten out a little bit but it's still not the greatest.


One piece I planned on using from the get go was the Honed Development booster delete kit. I had one for my old ek civic but sadly never got the chance to install it before the car was written off. This booster delete isn't like the other kits on the market which are a flat plate on the firewall. This one pushes the master upwards and outwards slightly to achieve proper pedal ratio for manual brakes and you drill a new pivot point in your brake pedal. To go with the booster delete I have that 7/8 ek master cylinder I got awhile back, which is what they recommend if you use 282mm rotors or aftermarket calipers.





Another thing I like to do is browse yahoo auctions late at night to see if there's any cool stuff worth buying. One night I found a set of oem tail light gaskets for an ok price. They were cheap and I weren't excepting them to be since the small gaskets were discontinued but no one was bidding so I scooped them up. As soon as I sent the money for those I found out that RestoTuner (https://www.restotuner.com/product-page ... gasket-set) has started to make reproduction tail light gaskets for the fraction of the price that I got mine for. Needless to say I'll be ordering a set or two of those.


Awhile back I got my package containing my TracTuff order and couldn't have been more excited. You definitely get your moneys worth with his products and they look amazing as well. The rbc manifold has to be shaved just a little bit more for the billet neck but it almost fits perfectly as is. I got the overflow with the option to mount in the factory location and its a tight fit with the headlight! Just barely clears it.






Another thing I got with my TracTuff order was this low profile XRP 90 degree -16 fitting. I was worried about space between the radiator I was planning on running and the 90 degree -16 fitting I would have to add onto the TracTuff billet thermostat housing I have. With this low profile fitting I can eliminate the need to have a big 90 degree fitting attached to the -16 male fitting that the housing comes with and save a inch or two of space between it and the radiator. The fitting was stupid expensive but I needed it so what can you do.



Another place where I did some changes was to my oil pan. Originally I was going to run the stock oem aluminum type s pan with some sort of baffle, most likely the clockwise motion one since I heard great reviews about it. That was the plan until I saw the steel baffled pans that Unit2 Fabrication offers. You get a brand new steel pan (no core needed) with his baffle that is actually bolted into the pan so you can remove it for whatever purpose and its reasonably priced. According to him it has 7 trap doors in it compared to Moroso's 5 in their baffled pan.


One thing I had a hard time deciding on was what wheel and tire combo I was going to run. I kept on going back on forth on it up until a few weeks ago when a friend of mine told me he was selling his extra pair of Work CR01 in 15x8 +22. I wasn't expecting them to be cheap but when he told me the price I had to scoop them up before anyone else did, they were too good to pass up. To match these I plan on ordering another pair of Work CR01 but in 15x9 +10 T Disk. T disk is what Work calls their big brake face option when custom ordering wheels. The 15x8 are an A disk which is the standard face and have a 57mm lip according to Work's wheel chart. To match the 57mm lip in 15x9 T disk, +10 is needed according to the chart so that's where the Osaka JDM fenders come into play. Those are 3cm wider than stock so I hope they fit under there. If not, I'm gonna have to get the Tracklife fender cut outs and space out the fender slightly.




For tires I decided to go with Hankook RS4. After talking to a few people and reading some posts online I decided to go with the RS4s since they were a pretty balance between grip and tire life. Won't be the fastest guy out there on the track but I also won't be spending a lot of money replacing them constantly. I went with 225/45R15 for the 15x8 and got a pair of 245/40R15 for the 15x9s that I plan on ordering. I got these tires for really cheap thru my friend who works at parts at the local Benz dealership. His cost was about $20-$30 cheaper a tire compared to anywhere else I looked online.





Just last week I got my brake line tuck kit in from Rywire and tossed it in over the weekend. I forgot to mention that I was using a ek master on my setup so they sent lines for an ef master but I made it work. I had limited spots to put the bulkhead fitting on the firewall since the hydro conversion took up the area where I wanted to put them and they had to clear all the pedals. The spot isn't the greatest but it'll do. For the rear lines I moved them inside from the firewall and bent them to where my pedal assembly was and just threaded on the lines. Once again, not the greatest but it'll do.





That's all for now, I'll try and keep this updated more often as parts slowly start rolling in.

Stay safe everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
AZCRXSI said:
Dang, nice list and parts. You've been busy. :)b
Yessir! You know what they say, work hard play harder

Since the last update I've managed to get a few more things in and installed, slowly the list is getting short and shorter. About a week after getting the tires in I got my buddy to mount and balance the 225/45 on the pair of 15x8 CR01 and I think they look pretty good with the RS4s mounted on them. I did a quick test fit of them on the rear and I'm gonna have to either pull the fender a bit or shave the hub of the wheel down to a +35ish offset to make it fit without a pull. I'm looking into getting a camber gauge so I can at least setup camber in the garage and help dial in in fitment.












Just a couple weeks ago I received some parts that I've been waiting for for a few months now due to a back ordered item. I managed to score an open box Radium direct mount fuel pressure regulator for a very good price plus some rack and trailing arm bushings on sale as well. I have solid rack bushings on the way but I need to double bush it since I have a manual rack in a power steering subframe. The blox street muffler was another clearance item I got for cheap so I decided to pick it up with the fpr. Originally I ordered Hardrace trailing arm bushings but was told they were going to be on back order until Sept after waiting almost 3 months already for them but found out that the Ktuned and Megan Racing ones are just private label Hardrace so I swapped them out for Megan ones. The Mfactory 1.0way plated lsd is something I can't wait to try out once I get the car up and running. I've heard these lsds are very good and they also have lifetime warranty if anything goes wrong.






Finally decided to wash the car since it was covered in about 2 years worth of dust then tossed on the car cover I got from Just Drive Shop. The fabric is a lot thinner than what I thought it was going to be but still is a pretty nice car cover.





Picked up my autopower roll bar awhile back as well so I quickly tossed it in the car to see where I would need to drill the holes. I still haven't done that yet and have to trim the carpet still as well.




Just recently I got my front spindles freshened up by a buddy of mine. I hit them with a drill and a wire wheel and was going to paint them afterwards but they cleaned up well enough so I left them as in then dropped them off to get my Karcepts 36mm hubs, fresh koyo bearings and honed developments extended ball joints pressed in. To go with the fresh spindles I got PCI front upper control arms that I ordered awhile back. These things are beefy as hell! Definitely worth the wait that's for sure. Put the hardrace eyelet bushings that I had for awhile in them and had to bend the tab of the arm a little bit to fit them. Without doing it the bushing on one side was way too tight in there.










To go with the fresh spindles I gave the trailing arms a quick coat of paint to make them look somewhat decent. It's not the greatest paint job that's for sure but it gets the job done. I also installed the honed developments rear roll center adapter and gave it a quick coat of black paint as well since I didn't like how much the zinc finish stood out. Thinking about getting them powder coated black since the paint job wasn't the greatest again. After I get the trailing arm bushings installed they're off to get the trailing arm gussets welded on that I got from honed as well.








 

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Love the pics. I remember tearing the susp apart on mine and replacing everything. Car rides so much better. And for the arms/pieces that were retained, cleaning them up and re-spraying them black. Might even consider re-undercoating the wheel wells and bottom. Looks great.

Oooo that is a close gap for tire to fender.

I would always wonder if I could put everything back together if I took the CRX apart down to metal/frame. I dont trust myself.

:)b
 

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Looks great and makes me want to work on my crx. Autopower initially looked weird but then I realized rhd. Was also on PCI website just yesterday to order toe-arms. Good thing those a-arms were sold out; I might have bought a pair even though I don't really need them. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
AZCRXSI said:
Love the pics. I remember tearing the susp apart on mine and replacing everything. Car rides so much better. And for the arms/pieces that were retained, cleaning them up and re-spraying them black. Might even consider re-undercoating the wheel wells and bottom. Looks great.

Oooo that is a close gap for tire to fender.

I would always wonder if I could put everything back together if I took the CRX apart down to metal/frame. I dont trust myself.

:)b
I'm glad I did, I found a couple bushings that were sagging and the trailing arm bushings were completely toast, can't wait to see how it feels like after everything is done. Taking everything apart has been fun but I've noticed I've lost a couple nuts and bolts from moving all my stuff between houses.

nihkon said:
Lots of quality parts going into this build! Looking great!
Thanks!

ColdLumpen said:
Looks great and makes me want to work on my crx. Autopower initially looked weird but then I realized rhd. Was also on PCI website just yesterday to order toe-arms. Good thing those a-arms were sold out; I might have bought a pair even though I don't really need them. :)
The upper arms were so worth it. I've had skunk2/hardrace ones before but these blow them out of the water, I still need to cycle the suspension to see if there's any clearance issues anywhere but so far so good.

Been awhile since I've last updated here, I did a couple updates on another forum that I'll copy and paste over to bring you guys up to date.

I gave the subframe a nice fresh coat of gloss black after painting the the rear trailing arms since I still had quite of bit of paint left in the can




One night I was bored so I quickly tossed on the 15x8 Works on the front with the stock fenders. My 15x9 CR01s that I ordered this summer should be here around late Nov/Early Dec, can't wait to see those on with the Js flares or the Osaka JDM fenders whenever those show up.




To finish off the suspension in the rear I went with the Honed Developments rear camber arm and PCI toe arms. I also ordered the Honed trailing arm gusset plate and solid rack bushings. Only thing is with the rack bushing is that I have to double bush it since I'm using a manual rack in a power steering subframe. Originally was going to use the Hardrace/Megan Racing trailing arm bushing but the taper is slightly off compared to oem and was having a hard time installing them since I don't have a press to use. I sold those off and got oem ones for a good price instead but have yet to install them, still debating if I want to go with the PCI ones instead since most the rear is already spherical.





A buddy of mine had some spare EF8/9 headlights kicking around that he wasn't using so he went and polished and cleared them before selling them off to me and they look absolutely mint. The other pair I had wasn't the greatest and one light had been resealed before so I sold those off after grabbing these. He also replaced the amber lenses on my bumper lights to these clear ones I picked up on eBay. They're not 100% exact but very close and is a decent replica of it, my old ones were heavily pitted and one was had a chipped lens so they were going to get replaced one way or another.






Just a little while ago I scored this brand new TSX/Z3 6th gear set for my Type S transmission to lower the rpm during highway cruising and this BattleCraft shift knob for my Hybrid shifter. I have one of the new Acuity RSX shifters on order to replace the Hybrid unit and I can't wait to get it, should be here around the end of Nov.




I picked up my Acuity shifter this past Friday and I must say this thing is a solid unit! I went with the 4way instead of the 2way that they also offer and it was worth it. Loads of adjustability with this, can't wait to try it out once everything is up and running.





Since the last update I haven't really done much towards the car but I have a major change for the car which you'll see down below.
A few weeks after I picked up the Acuity shifter a friend of mine told me he had a K20A2 long block with allegedly 70k km on it and so without thinking I ended scooping that up. I figured it would save me the trouble of transferring internals from the cracked blocked over to the empty one I picked up and would save me on machine shop costs. I was still planning on doing the timing chain/tensioner and guides but at least I had something I could drop right in.



After looking at the engine some more it looked like the timing chain cover had come off at one point since there was some black sealant oozed around the sides of it, the inside of the valve cover and head looked very clean so I didn't suspect it being a high mileage motor but I could never confirm if it was 70k km or not.
During Black Friday I ended up ordering a K20 swap header from DTR Header since he had a very good promotion going on for his DTR Design branded headers he offers. Surprising it came super quick, shipped on a Monday and received it Friday the same week before I headed off to work. I also ordered an Action Stage 1 clutch and aluminum flywheel from my local speed shop since they also had a good promo going on for those. Still have yet to receive those but should be here shortly.







Earlier in the build I had an ebay scirocco radiator that I was going to use but ended up trading it for some other parts awhile back, so while I was browsing ebay for some parts I stumbled upon a seller that was selling the Koyo pocket radiators for $100usd cheaper than any other retailer I had found. I found that sometimes on ebay seller will have brand new parts for under retail and shipping up to Canada is pretty cheap as well if they're partnered up with ebay, just something to look out for.




During Boxing Day Yonaka was having this deal for their shifter cables for nearly half off so I decided to get them and give them a try. They're the "oem" style cables and looks like the same ones that Ktuned offers as well. I've heard mixed reviews on these style of cables but for the price I wouldn't be too upset if they broke.



Everything was on track to get everything ready up and running by spring but during the holidays me and my mom came to an agreement where I would start paying for the house as she was moving into her house by the lake this summer. So because of that I decided to part out my K series stuff and go back to B series so I could free up some cash and still go racing this year. Surprising I sold mostly everything minus some misc stuff I found laying around within 2-3 days and made a deal with a friend of mine to assemble a B20v and overhaul a GSR transmission for me. I ended up trading a lot of my stuff for B series stuff so it made it quite easy to transition over.
So far the B20v looks like this:

B16 head
B20 block
84mm ITR style pistons
ARP head studs
Resized B20 rods w/ arp rod bolts
Zerg Industries headgasket
King Race bearings
ACL oil pump
Moroso oil pan
AEM fuel rail
AEM fpr
RSX Type S 310cc injectors
Gates water pump + tensioner
Gates Performance timing belt
AEBS intake manifold
Speed Factory 70mm throttle body
TracTuff swirl pot
Supertech lost motion assemblies

It's pretty much the same setup I was going to run the first time around so everything came full circle I guess lol. Everything on that has been ordered and just waiting on everything to come in, still need to save up for a few other things for the motor then I can get onto the transmission side of things.

So far I'm looking at doing:
Synchrotech carbon synchro rebuild kit
B16 3rd gear
Mfactory 1.5way LSD
Mfactory 4.92fd

Hopefully everything on that list will be ordered by the end of March to make it in time for the first test and tune of the year.

Just a few days ago I finally got the message that the pair of Work wheels that I had ordered during the summer have finally come in! Thankfully I live 5 mins away from the speed shop that I ordered them from so I headed over there after work to pick them up and I must say, it was definitely worth the wait. I wasn't too sure how I would feel on the gunmetal colour but after seeing them in person it's a lot nicer than what I had thought it. I really like how the T disk really makes the hub/lug area really concave vs the pair of A disks I picked up last summer as well. Originally I was planning on polishing this pair to match the other pair I have but I'm not too sure anymore.




While I was at the speed shop I also picked up my new koyo rad to replace the pocket version one I had sold. Still planning on getting the -16 bungs I have welded onto it since the swirl pot that I ordered has -16 connection for it as well. I need to make some new radiator tabs since I had cut the original ones off awhile back.



While I was walking out the door with goods in hand they asked if I was interested in some strut bars that they had found in the back of the shop. I wasn't really looking for strut bars at the moment but I figured I'd ask anyways. Turns out they had found front and rear set of passwordjdm strut bars in winkle black that they ordered years ago but never ended up selling so they gave them to me for a steal. The front is a 3 point bar that attaches to the firewall so I was a bit worried that it would hit the brake master cylinder but it just barely clears it. Not too sure how I feel about the winkle black finish but not sure what I would redo them in either.




Just the other day I got the pair of 245/40/15 mounted on the pair of 15x9 +10 CR01s I had picked up and quickly tossed one on the car with the Js flare to see how it would sit. There wasn't a rotor attach to the hub so the wheel would stick out 5-10mm further but it seems like it'll work, just need to shave the inner lip of the flare off for some extra clearance.








Just playing the waiting game now for my motor parts but I'll try and get some updates on it while it's being assembled. Thankfully I'm pretty lazy and didn't end up splicing the wires for the k swap conversion harness and for the fuse box tuck that I was going to do but since I didn't it'll make everything a lot easier to put a B series back in here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 · (Edited)
Dang this is an awesome build. Opened my eyes to things I didn't even know existed.
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying it

Oh man this was a wild ride reading all this. Your build is fresh, even though it’s not done it’s still fresh.
Are there any new-ish updates? I’m subscribed now.
Thank you! I try to make it look good as it sit in the garage for months at a time, at least it's enjoyable to look at lol. I usually have another build thread on another forum more somewhat updated but I'll try to keep this one updated more often as well.

Just copy and pasting the last few updates from my other thread here in the next few posts since there seems to be an image limit per post.

Another small update, had a few more parts come in over the last few weeks and some progress on my motor. The short block should be ready to go later this week then my friend is going to start assembling it. Little worried about p2v clearance since we did skim the head plus a little bit of the deck surface and Im planning on running a thinner head gasket as well but we shall see.

Parts wise I had a few things come in, my Hasport mounts and weld in bracket came in fairly quick. I ordered the billet replacement mounts for factory EF8/9 with factory B16 and a hydro trans b swap mount so I could run the hydro GSR that I have for the build. The factory EF8/9 trans side mount is actually bigger than non SiR chassis so if you were going to use the Hasport B series hydro trans mount you would have to run a spacer to take up the space. If you recall mine was actually bent and I drilled it out and removed it for the K swap weld in bracket which I never got welded in.

Just recently Hasport released a replacement weld in trans bracket for b/d swap cars so I ordered that but since the SiR chassis frame rail is a different shape it’s not a bolt/weld in affair. Most likely will have to cut it up and mock up a block w/ trans to see where the mount would sit. Also for those who have a SiR chassis, the engine mount and rear mount are DA mounts so if you needed a quick replacement mount you could use one of off those.



Another item that came in fairly quick was my budget Rywire harness, took only about a week and a half to come in after ordering it which was nice. One thing I didn’t notice was that they updated their chassis harness adapter for it, you used to have to splice into your chassis harness but now it’s a plug and play deal now.




A few days ago I got my trailing arms back with fresh oem trailing arm bushings and the gusset plates from Honed Developments were welded on. We forgot to clock the bushings for lowered ride height but Im probably going to replace them with PCI spherical ones next season anyways so I’ll just leave them as is.



Having my trailing arms back meant I could test fit my wheels with the car on the ground so I quickly tossed on one side just to see how everything would fit/look like and I was not disappointed. I only did one side because I was super lazy and I knew the trailing arms would have to come off again to get repainted.



















 

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Discussion Starter · #114 · (Edited)
Shortly after the last post my TracTuff swirl pot and came in for the B20v and boy is it a nice piece. Love the stuff that Rob fabs up, definitely worth the price and wait. My Koyo rad got the -16 bungs welded I bought last summer as well, just need to order lines and fittings after I get the engine installed.
Have to thank my boy Matt for welding the bungs on as well as welding the gussets on the trailing arms.











Couple weeks after that my cop conversion kit and Speed Factory 70mm throttle body came in. I bought the cop kit from Xenocron and it uses the HondaRulez cop board like a few other kits out there. The nice part about the HondaRulez board is that you can install it on a stock ecu and it’ll still work and it’s fairly easy to go back to distributor if needed.
The Speed Factory throttle body is a nice piece for it’s price, cheap and effective. It’s a cast unit but it seems to be of good quality and even came with a thermal gasket.









So originally I spec’d out my B20v setup to be fairly simple but that all changed once my buddy told me he was parting out his Integra with a freshly rebuilt B18C motor with some goodies in it. I wasn’t going to buy the motor at first since but it was freshly with Nippon ITR pistons, Scat rods, King bearings, ACL oil pump and a cylinder head with full Skunk2 valve train with pro2 cams in it.

I was tempted to throw this into the crx but another buddy of mine was interested in the short block so after some talking we ended up going 50/50 on the rebuilt B18C and I sold him my refreshed stock B16 head for cheap so he gets a nice refreshed motor for cheap and I get a nice cylinder head with cams for cheap as well.

I also picked up RDX injectors, like new IACV, AEM AFR gauge, Personal steering wheel, 74mm Skunk2 throttle body, Hondata S300 v3 and a 98 spec ITR trans off him as well.











After I got the motor home I tossed on my swirl pot to see what it would look like and man it looks good.







A few weeks ago it finally started to really warm up so I gave my trailing arms and the other subframe I picked up during winter a quick coat of black. I used a different type of gloss black this time and it seems like it has some flake in it which is nice. The next day after they dried I put the rear end mostly back together for mock up.







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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
2/2




Just earlier I finished swapping out the subframe and cleaning out the interior so I could put the Works back on and see it on all 4 wheels for the first time. I’ve seen what it looks like before with the wheels on the one side but even now I think it looks really good with the wheels and flares. Glad I went with the CR01s, they fit the EF chassis perfectly imo.















While cleaning out the interior I took the dash out so I could remove the center console bracket/frame so I could just run the upper half. Originally I was going to run carpet but most likely just gonna run it gutted with the dash and door panels only.




I also never had the side skirt on with the lower fender cap on before while the car was on the Works so seeing it with them without the lower door cap confirmed that I really do like not having the door cap on.







Yesterday I went on a little adventure with my buddy in his EF9 to go grab an SiR hood and some EF9 fenders a couple mins outside of town. I wanted the hood and he wanted the fenders so we split the cost for them. The hood is in OK condition, 6.5/10 I’d say. Has a few dents, scratches and other things but for the price I paid I’m not really gonna complain about it. My buddy with the EF9 does body work as his job so Im going to ask him if he can do what he can to make it a little more presentable. It seems like it was also in a K swapped EF since a bit of the webbing is cut on the inside where a K series
would sit.










That’s everything for now, planning on getting a lot more work done over the next few weeks so I can hopefully get it driving/insured in time for my birthday in Sept.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 · (Edited)
First off, the car still isn’t running nor is it close to it lol. I was hoping to get the car running by Sept but I got word maybe a few days after the last post that my coilovers still had no eta and a few other things happened so I decided just to chill out and enjoy my summer.
I had some some things done like get the Xenocron cop kit install the ecu and alternator plug swapped out with the one supplied in the kit by my friend.





At the same time as that I got my bumper lenses back from getting clear coated and these things look amazing! Love the look of the clear lenses on these.

Shortly afterwards I finally received my ASR rear brace and sway bar that I ordered a year ago. Still haven’t installed it, just been sitting in my room since I got it.


One part that I’ve been waiting to get was my Sard RD-1 cluster. Looks like a motorcycle cluster but it shows a lot of info and you can use any 80mm tach with it. I used to have brand new one years ago but foolishly sold it and I’ve been regretting it since so when this popped up I had to get it.


Towards the end of July I got word that my Bride Xeros seat that I ordered a few months ago showed up and I quickly picked that up since I was on holidays. I’ve never had a brand new bucket seat before but this is the comfiest seat I’ve ever sat in. I love the diamond stitching on the sides and the leather vinyl along the top of the side bolsters so hopefully that’ll help it from tearing from getting in and out.




Somewhere in that time I ended up selling that refreshed B18C motor and ITR trans to a friend of mine. I wasn’t planning on selling either of them but I got offered a price that I couldn’t refuse and made a good chunk of money from it. I also ended up selling my Hondata, cop setup, Rywire harness and 4.9fd to him as well so now the plan is to run Haltech Elite 1500 so I can do drive by wire throttle. Like the motor and trans I wasn’t planning on selling that setup since it was pretty much ready to go but I was talking to another friend of mine and he mentioned he was doing dbw on his Z31 and told me all the benefits that come from it and it got it thinking about it. Mainly I just wanted cruise control which I thought would be cool to have and not having a throttle cable in the engine bay which cleans it up a little bit more.

I haven’t ordered anything yet since I’m still getting paid from selling the swap and everything but will be once I do. The plan is to use a 68mm Bosch Motorsports dbw throttle body and welding an adaptor flange to the AEBS manifold for the dbw throttle body and use a T1 cam trigger setup along with K series coil packs so I can fully delete the distributor and clean things up even more. For the pedal I’m thinking about using one from a Honda Fit or BRZ/FRS/86 but haven’t decided on one just yet. I emailed Rywire about a custom harness for everything and got a reply back saying that they’re planning on releasing an off the shelf harness that would cover all the bases that I asked about and would be roughly more than half the cost of a true custom harness. They plan on releasing it around the end of this year or early next year so all that’s left to do is wait.

Since I sold the ITR trans and 4.9fd I need another setup to use and as of now the plan is to acquire a B16 trans and put in a mfactory 3/4/5 close ratio gear set along with a 4.4fd from a GSR trans I have laying around. I looked a few different setups online that people use and tested them out in Forza to see what I liked and what would work well at our local track. With the setup I’m going with highway cruising shouldn’t be too bad, rough 3900/4000 @ 100kmh which was kinda close to the ITR trans w/ 4.9fd iirc.

In the deal with my friend that I made I ended up getting a facelift bumper along with a bumper support and the thin frame rail brackets that I needed. The bumper isn’t perfect, has some small damage on the front that needs to get repaired and the grill has been cut out but finding one of these out here is slim to none so I decided to scoop it up. He threw in some fenders that he had laying around as well. Now finally I can hang my bumper without having a piece of wood propping it up which was nice.




August for me was a wash, I ended up hurting my back pretty bad outside of work and missed some work because of it. During that time I also had to put my cat down that I’ve had for about 15 years so that was rough and to make it worse it was on Friday the 13th, truly a cursed day for me. I pretty much just wrote off the rest of the month and just chilled out.

September I decided to get some work done and borrowed an empty B series block, B series trans casing, picked up a rear T bracket and ordered a billet Hasport post mount since I was having trouble finding a DA post mount locally. Oddly enough the Hasport mount came in just over a week which was surprise considering how back up everything is with shipping.

With help of a friend of mine we mocked the engine up in the bay and bolted in the rear mount and engine mount and roughly got the block and trans where it needs to be. It’s slightly higher on the trans side since I don’t have another jack to adjust it since mine is holding the rear end of the car up but it’s very close to being level.

With the block and trans in place I had another problem to deal with, the trans mount bracket. Since the car came with a factory B series you can’t just bolt up the trans to the car, no one makes an off the shelf mount for hydro trans into EF8/9 chassis. As you can see with the Hasport hydro trans to EF mount it sits pretty far back in the bay almost under the strut tower. Even if the mount had lined up with the factory mount somehow the mount itself is smaller compared the mount in the Hasport EF8/9 replacement mount kit.



What I decided to do was take the mount from the trans mount on the EF8/9 and put it on top of the base of the hydro mount kit where the original trans mount would roughly sit. Luckily enough theres a lot of flat space on the base part of the mount so I had a lot of room to move it around and still have the mount sit flat on it on all sides.




After dealing with that I crudely made a template of the trans mount bracket that I will need to get made and welded onto the car. Super ugly but it did it’s job until I make a cleaner version.
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Borrowed a busted PR3 head and slapped on my swirl pot and intake manifold just to see what everything would look like and quickly tossed in the Koyo rad as well then took the mount off and dropped it off at my friends place so he could weld it up after work when he has some free time.





Just the other day I got my mount back from my friend and he did a killer job! He also did the bungs on my Koyo rad and the gussets on my trailing arms.





With that dealt with now I can take the car over to my friends place and get the trans bracket made and welded and get some other things done as well. I ordered a firewall filler plate kit from ODB Weld Werks awhile ago and just received them the other day. The plan is to fill up all the unused holes in the firewall but not fully shave and tuck the bay, just a slight clean up. Hoping to get everything done this month so I can respray the bay before it gets too cold.
 

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Parts wise I had a few things come in, my Hasport mounts and weld in bracket came in fairly quick. I ordered the billet replacement mounts for factory EF8/9 with factory B16 and a hydro trans b swap mount so I could run the hydro GSR that I have for the build. The factory EF8/9 trans side mount is actually bigger than non SiR chassis so if you were going to use the Hasport B series hydro trans mount you would have to run a spacer to take up the space. If you recall mine was actually bent and I drilled it out and removed it for the K swap weld in bracket which I never got welded in. Just recently Hasport released a replacement weld in trans bracket for b/d swap cars so I ordered that but since the SiR chassis frame rail is a different shape it’s not a bolt/weld in affair. Most likely will have to cut it up and mock up a block w/ trans to see where the mount would sit. Also for those who have a SiR chassis, the engine mount and rear mount are DA mounts so if you needed a quick replacement mount you could use one of off those.
I think I read somewhere all of the mounts were basically the GSR version for the SiR chassis.
 

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man all you need to do now is tighten up that steering ratio. I don't know how SiR's differ from US steering racks but Quaife makes a quick rack with a 25% reduction in ratio. there is a write up on here somewhere but like I said I don't know if it will work for RH drive cars?
I had it on my 2nd CRX and I daily drove it and auto crossed it, best thing I did for handling and drivability.
 

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found it. I hope the link worked.
 
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