STS2 CRX Autox Setup Guide

24907 Views 37 Replies 13 Participants Last post by fireant, Feb 5, 2007

fireant

Discussion Starter · Sep 5, 2006

I thought I'd share my setup details for anyone who might be interested in building an autocrosser from your CRX. It is based on 2005's National Champion STS2 CRX.

Everyone's car is different and driving style too, but you can use this particular formula as a safe and highly refined starting point at least.

Wheels, Tires, Brakes:

* 15x7 Enkei RPF1's, 41mm offset (These are expensive 9lb wheels, but anything under 13lbs will do... it is more important that they are 7" wide than anything else)
* 205/50/15 Azenis RT615
* 35psi all around
* Hawk HPS pads in front, stock in rear
* ATE Super Blue brake fluid

Front Suspension:

* 450# Eibach linear race springs,
* Koni yellows set very soft,
* lowered till the tire top is even with the fender lip
* 0 toe, or sometimes 1/16th out for high-speed events
* -2.8° camber
* HF sway bar (very critical part of this setup)
* NO strut bar

Rear Suspension:

* 400# Eibach linear race springs,
* Koni Yellows set very firm,
* lowered till the tire top is even with the fender lip
* 0 toe
* -2.1° camber
* ST sway bar, full soft
* NO strut bars
* Mugen RTA bushings

Engine:

* DC Sports 2-piece header
* Iceman Intake set up as short ram with a DIY heat sheild
* New OEM grounding wires
* Magnaflow OE Cat (though these may be protestable at the highest levels, most people wont require you to spend $500 on a factory cat just to race with them)
* Greddy SP2 exhaust (some radiator hose is zip tied around the rear sway bar, since the exhaust will lightly bump the sway bar on extreme corners)
* Energy Suspension motor mount inserts and shifter bushings

misc

* Stock seats (2007 minimum seat weights will likely be 25lbs, so why bother)
* Complete AC (more time to be gained from a cool head in Texas)
* Momo Steering wheel (saves weight, easy to turn, easy to get in and out)
* No head unit or antenna... I use a portable mp3 player and a small amp to run the rear speakers. Total weight of stereo system is 5 lbs, all behind the driver. Honda factory block off plates are required to do this legally
* 11lb Hawker G13 battery, stock location, protected by intake heat shield along with the intake
* small duct on 91 bumper is cut out to let air in
* Car is a '91 Si roughly 2085# in race trim
* Car is daily driven, and fairly comfortable. The rear hatch cargo cover makes it much quieter inside
* stock ecu for now, but plans are for a "redshift" reflash soon.

This has been a very successful setup for me. Feel free to ask any questions.

See less See more

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

jfrolang

· #2 · Sep 5, 2006

What's the reason for no strut bars? Are they disallowed in that class?

fireant

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 5, 2006

jfrolang said:
What's the reason for no strut bars? Are they disallowed in that class?

They are allowed, but they have never been found to conclusively lower times. In fact, one experiment was done where soft wood was sandwiched between the upper front bar and its mounting point. The car was run through a course a number of times and the soft wood showed no signs of ever being stressed from the chassis.

I have had duscussions with top STS civic drivers who will all agree that on a strut-based car, upper shock tower bars are very helpful, but on our double-wishbone cars most of the pressure is on the lower control arm mounting points.

I have an unused neuspeed front upper bar sitting in my garage now, and I never missed it once it was removed... espeically since it was always in the way of my cleaning and maintenance
:lol:

jfrolang

· #4 · Sep 5, 2006

That's interesting, because when I installed my neuspeed strut bar, I noticed an immediate improvement. Not a huge difference, but noticeable nonetheless.

fireant

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 5, 2006

I remember installing mine and thinking it did help with quicker turn in, but I did not notice anything when I removed it later on, and my times did not show any degree of change.

I think its safe to say that having one cannot hurt, and not having one is ok too, and some chassis might benefit more from the extra support than others.

iLLA

· #6 · Sep 5, 2006

Its interesting to see that you used 35 psi all around. I usually see people stagger their tire pressures front to rear, with the fronts higher than the rears. Did these pressures give you more of a balanced feel of tha car? Im still trying to get a feel of what PSI to run my car.

downest

· #7 · Sep 6, 2006

iLLA said:
Its interesting to see that you used 35 psi all around. I usually see people stagger their tire pressures front to rear, with the fronts higher than the rears. Did these pressures give you more of a balanced feel of tha car? Im still trying to get a feel of what PSI to run my car.

Really? I actually run higher pressure in the rear, it seems to keep the back end a little looser and rotating better...

iLLA

· #8 · Sep 6, 2006

downest said:
Really? I actually run higher pressure in the rear, it seems to keep the back end a little looser and rotating better...

I've tried very high pressures up front (40) and in tha rear (32)...but this was when i had no idea what i was doing (i thank HT forum for puttin crazy ideas in my head). I've read endless amounts of posts of people running with hella high pressures up front and very low rears. But when i tried I felt with that setup the whole car was imbalanced.

It seems more correct to have the rears at a higher PSI than the fronts since in an FF car the front tires would do most of the work and would warm up a lot more than the rears. Coz we do want the most traction up front while still having an amount of rotation in tha rear. I dunno...maybe after a couple of more runs, and as i get better at driving, ill figure it all out. :?

fireant

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 6, 2006

I use 35 as a starting point all around and I would call it "neutral" for me. That rule of thumb might not apply to other setups though.

I am using Azenis which have a stiffer sidewall, and remember I have almost -3 camber in the front, so I try to to keep the pressures in the 35-37 range in the front during the course of my runs.

If I need more rotation I will sometimes try to take the rears down to 32, but I usually dont have to.

In general, I want the car to stay consistent so I can concentrate on the driving.

daveb91

· #10 · Sep 18, 2006

What about running no front sway arm i have heard people doing this. Any thoughts?

fireant

Discussion Starter · #11 · Sep 18, 2006

daveb91 said:
What about running no front sway arm i have heard people doing this. Any thoughts?

I did try this for a while, and it is great for getting lots of traction while exiting turns, however transitions and slaloms become a little too sloppy to make up for the gained time.

If I had unlimited resources, I'd definitely attempt no front sway bar and maybe 600lb springs up front just to see if that would cure it.

cbp_crx

· #12 · Sep 19, 2006

hey thanks for posting your setup, i will use it, to help me with my crx for next year

glagola1

· #13 · Oct 27, 2006

Thanks for posting your set up here. I just bought an 88 that I'm probably going to be campaigning next year.

One thing caught my eye and I'm not sure it's a legality issue or not since I'm so new to ST rules but you mention that you cut your bumper cover for a cold air inlet. I can't find anything in the 2006 rules that says that's legal.

????

mvm

· #14 · Oct 27, 2006

Thank for posting your set-up.

The only thing that stands out to me would be your Air Pressure and Tire Compound. I know your running 35 PSI but in what kinda tire?

With road courses around here and all the Miata's racing with us I have drasticly changed my set-up. Im currently running 28 PSI on a 205/50/15 Toyo RA1's which is a very soft racing compound. On Konig Heliums, the 8lb wheel.

Im very curious what you used for tires. :wink:

downest

· #15 · Oct 27, 2006

He's running Falken Azenis. Azenis and KDW2 are the most popular I've seen in STS.

fireant

Discussion Starter · #16 · Oct 27, 2006

downest said:
He's running Falken Azenis. Azenis and KDW2 are the most popular I've seen in STS.

Yep, Azenis 615's.

I recently bumped up the rear bar to medium. Its harder to drive, but it looks like my times might be a little better for it.

mvm

· #17 · Oct 27, 2006

fireant said:
downest said:

He's running Falken Azenis. Azenis and KDW2 are the most popular I've seen in STS.

Click to expand...

Yep, Azenis 615's.

I recently bumped up the rear bar to medium. Its harder to drive, but it looks like my times might be a little better for it.

Very nice. Let me know if you ever think of trying something different.

Slystone

· #18 · Oct 27, 2006

Konig Helium Cast 15x6.5 11.5lbs

Volks T37 Rays
SSR Type C.....both are 8.6lbs :wink:

mvm

· #19 · Oct 27, 2006

Slystone said:
Konig Helium Cast 15x6.5 11.5lbs

Volks T37 Rays
SSR Type C.....both are 8.6lbs :wink:

Your very right, I stand corrected. Good looking out. :wink:

mvm

· #20 · Oct 27, 2006

Sorry Slystone. No offense meant by this at all.
But just wanted to let you know. Your Wakaba logo has nothing to do with racing. Although everyone thinks it does.

People put that sign on their car in Japan when they first get their license to let other drivers kno that they are inexperienced sucky drivers....

Most people in Japan are ashamed to put those on....

and the tear drop logo is 4 old senior citizens..... cuz they cant drive either..... it doesnt mean "advanced racer" . :wink:

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.