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Suspension recomendations for an ED9

7265 Views 19 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  ollie
With Christmas around the corner, I'm trying to compile a list of desired parts. Currently, my '91 Si is completely stock except for Hawk pads and Brembo rotors, which I put on a few months ago and which seem to be holding up well. I'd like to start upgrading the suspension, but unfortunately my knowledge regarding suspension parts and tuning is limited. Given around $300 and a stock platform, what would be your first move? I want to set this car up for daily driving and autocross. If anyone can recommend specific parts and brand names, I'd really appreciate it. While I'm looking for quality parts, I can't afford top-dollar gear; is there a huge difference between Neuspeed and generic Ebay sway bars, for example? Thanks again.

-Chris
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$300 will not go very far with suspension. You could probably do a rear sway bar or a full bushings kit, but in any case I would upgrade the springs and shocks first. $300 can get you a decent set of springs OR a decent set of shocks, but not both.

Yeah, there is a difference between name-brand product and generic ebay product. Generally the rule is that ebay stuff is crap; poor fitment, missing hardware, no instructions, etc.

I'm thinking you might get more of your money's worth with a header, unless you're really dead-set on suspension...
The only reason I'm not doing engine upgrades right now is because I plan on swapping in the next year or two. My a6 only has 93k on it, but I want to start with a more robust platform. Regarding springs and shocks, I've heard good things about the GC/Koni combo. The 3011 and SPSS series are a little out of my price range, however. Can you recommend anything in the $5-600 range? If I can get shocks for Christmas, I can afford some decent springs with job money.
I'm thinking a 1-1.5" drop...nothing crazy, just enough to improve handling and maintain streetability.
I think you'll be good with the Eibach Pro-Kit springs, which advertise a 1.2" drop, and a set of non-adjustable shocks, such as Tokico HP's.

Links Here and Here.

You'll need an alignment once the springs are installed, to get the toe settings back to normal. You might also want a camber correction kit for the front, I'll leave that up to you. For a 1.2" drop though, I don't think you need it.
Ive ran polyurethane bushings, KYB adjustable struts, eibach sportline springs, neuspeed swaybars, and neuspeed strut tower bars(front and rear) all on the same CRX. Was there a noticable improvement over stock handling? Definitely. Was it streetable? Yes, but it defintely gave new meaning to "feeling the road", because I literally felt every crack, seam and general imperfection on the highway.
Currently, I run Tokico Illuminas with H&R springs, and specialty performance adjustable upper balljoints, everything else is stock Si suspension, and I honestly like it better. I still have plenty of control, less risk of oversteer, and a smooth ride all at the same time. Id still like to get a set of the Neuspeed strut tower bars(which also make a great gift or gift request) to stiffen the chassis a little bit, and I might consider switching to Neuspeed sport springs or the Eibach pro kit, but Ill have to pass on the bushing kit and the aftermarket swaybars, IMO theyre overkill on a daily driver.
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I appreciate the suggestions, guys. After reserching all three products, a set of ES Hyperflex bushings, Tokico HP's, and Eibach springs might be just the thing, and are within my budget if I can get a few more hours in at work. Thanks again.
Any thoughts on Mugen rubber bushings versus ES poly? I hear that they're a signficant improvement over stock, but aren't as harsh as the ES. Anyone have experience with these? Also, what about H &R springs vs. Eibach Pro Kit?
Thepeug said:
Any thoughts on Mugen rubber bushings versus ES poly? I hear that they're a signficant improvement over stock, but aren't as harsh as the ES. Anyone have experience with these? Also, what about H &R springs vs. Eibach Pro Kit?
ES bushings are definitely harder, but they are a lot less expensive as well. If you want an ideal setup, you should consider a mix of poly and rubber bushings. For example, there are at least two bushing sets that I know of that should not be replaced with poly for optimum performance (and correct suspension travel). They are the large rear trailing arm bushings and the front inner lower control arm bushings. The ES bushings in these positions can cause suspension binding, which can result it poor handling in extreme cornering and other conditions.

As far as a comparison between Mugen and OEM, I know that the Mugen ones are a harder durometer than the OEM ones *except* for the the rear trailing arm bushings. Mugen and OEM are the same. (they used to be different, but the original OEM ones failed and were recalled, so they increased the durometer of the new OEM ones to the same as the Mugen ones).
Thanks for the warning. I didn't consider a poly/rubber mix, but I certainly don't want to run into suspension binding issues. Quick noob question: Is it necessary to replace all bushings on the car at one time? If not, which ones, if replaced, would most contribute to increased performace? Aside from visible damage, how do I know which ones to replace, and how do I determine where these are located?
You can replace any of them at any time... However, you must be symmetrical about it. When you replace one on one side of the car, you must do the same one on the other side of the car. For the most noticeable improvements, I suggest starting with the lower control arms (front and rear). The old bushings will need to be pressed out, so you might as well do all of them on each arm at the same time to save costs. If you have a friend that works in a shop, try to get them to help you... it's not hard to press them out if you have the right equipment.
I've got a buddy who's a Mustang fanatic, but he's got a ton of tools and equipment, so I'll see if he can help me out. Bushing sets generally come with installation instructions, right?
The Energy Suspension bushings set comes with illustrated instructions.

H&R has three lowering springs, the Race at 2.25", the Sport at 1.9", and the OE Sport at 0.75". I didn't mention them before since they're all outside the range you wanted.

You can look/buy them here.
Thanks for the link.
stickershop said:
As far as a comparison between Mugen and OEM, I know that the Mugen ones are a harder durometer than the OEM ones *except* for the the rear trailing arm bushings. Mugen and OEM are the same. (they used to be different, but the original OEM ones failed and were recalled, so they increased the durometer of the new OEM ones to the same as the Mugen ones).
When I called my Honda dealership asking about the rear trailing arm bushings, they said they didn't have them and couldn't get them. There was no part number. He said I'd have to buy the whole trailing arm for like $350 each. I ordered the ES bushings.
It's not listed under a car type in their system. It's a loose part that works on several types of vehicles.

Rear Trailing Arm Bushing 52385-SR3-000
Awesome! I'm definitely going to revert back to those. Thanks!
i'm probably going to get Neuspeed Sport springs, you can usually find them for like 125 or so. and Koni Reds or yellows, whichever one is the cheaper one, i forget ATM.

i was thinking someone on this board already had that setup? im thinking it was the guy with the great red CRX and the just about perfect "beater" yellow CRX... but i could be mistaken :oops:
Charlie said:
i'm probably going to get Neuspeed Sport springs, you can usually find them for like 125 or so. and Koni Reds or yellows, whichever one is the cheaper one, i forget ATM.

i was thinking someone on this board already had that setup? im thinking it was the guy with the great red CRX and the just about perfect "beater" yellow CRX... but i could be mistaken :oops:
"beater" yellow crx...that does not compute...
Yellow crx's are never beaters! :lol:
:gets off soap box:
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