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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Purchased June 2020 (just around 161k miles and working AC!!!):
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After replacing and installing a few odds and ends (rear hatch lift supports, adding a cupholder), there was a noise coming from the trans that was getting louder/more consistent (I noticed a slight sound at the time of test drive but it wasn't that bad). Spoke to some local shops and came to the conclusion that it might be an input shaft bearing and that I may as well rebuild the trans since they have to take it apart anyway.

Replacing hatch supports:
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Cupholder from GregParts:
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Usually I'll try to do this myself, due to time and space (and not having done this before) I decided I'd get the trans rebuilt at the shop and started to plan for this instead. Purchased an Exedy Stage 1 clutch and lightened flywheel in preparation for the rebuild.

While waiting for the parts to come in I got wind of a used trans in good condition. It also had a 4.9 final drive and MFactory LSD. I went ahead and arranged to purchase this trans and get it installed (along with my new clutch and flywheel) by the seller's mechanic.

At Wheelseek getting the trans installed:
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Got a set of OEM bumper and corner lamps from Wheelseek as well:
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I also ordered an HKS cat back exhaust made for a hatch. Ended up cutting it to fit. Pretty straightforward and am very happy with the results:
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Since I was just getting back into the CRX "game" I couldn't decide on which coilovers to go with. Usually I'd opt for the Koni/GC setup but I wanted something different from what I've ran in the past. There was just so much to choose from that I really couldn't decide (Progress, BC, KW, etc.).

Instead, I borrowed my longtime friend's @nihkon (bro in law for a little more than 2 years now) Koni/GC setup with much stiffer springs than what I'm used to. He was also on the fence on which coilovers to go with and would only buy a new setup if I bought his current setup.

His CRX (my previous one that he was supposed to sell back to me at year 6 of ownership馃ぃ) was still under the knife we went ahead and slapped his suspension onto my CRX:
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A few shots from @nihkon since he's really good at this stuff:
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Unfortunately on the way back home, the CRX decided to stall and ultimately die on the freeway. I was literally a few miles from home. Got a tow and the next day I started looking into the issues. Found a leaky injector (smashed filter) so I purchased an o-ring/filter replacement kit and cleaned them the best I could. I ordered a grounding kit and installed that as well:

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Not the cleanest engine bay but I was more focused on trying to get this thing running reliably:

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Added an RSX shift knob, Skunk2 short shifter and Tegiwa rubber dash mat:
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Purchased an AEM CAI and replaced the OEM battery tie down:
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Got my Black Racing BR8 wheels out of storage to get them powdercoated.

Before:
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After:
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Planned on keeping the car like this for a while:
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
DC sports ss header and Lokar dip stick installed:
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@nihkon 's CRX was about road ready so he needed his suspension back. Instead of going back to stock height (at this point I was leaning towards KW's but was unsure of spending $1500+ on them since they don't come with top hats), I went ahead and purchased a used set of springs/shocks off of hmotors:
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With this setup the front rates were higher 12k/672lbs while the rear rates were lower 6k/336lbs resulting in a surprisingly similar ride to the Koni/GC Front 600lbs/Rear 550lbs. It did raise the height of the car a bit though. Lowered the circlip one notch and got it to a decent height. At this time I installed spoon rep mirrors and a edm wing:

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Turned my attention to the interior. Pics of the Personal Fitti E3 steering wheel along with NRG short hub, QR, lock and Hybrid Racing Delrin shift knob:
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I had a Fastline shifter in a previous civic of mine and it felt great for daily driving. Gave this replica a try (made by Tegiwa) and although it felt really comfortable, I think it just looked a little goofy at times in the CRX. I've since went back to the Skunk2 shifter:
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Adjusted the muffler so that the tips fill in the bumper cutout better:
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Then one of my all time favorite wheels popped up for sale. These were manufactured in 2005, came complete with valve stems, center caps and in the original boxes. I had previously planned to have matching TE37's on my CRX and Tacoma but wasn't expecting it to happen this soon. Had to jump on this set though:
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My Tacoma on TE's:
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Threw the stock wheels back on:
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Went to visit @nihkon We probably worked on one of the CRX's again...most likely mine.馃檪
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Back to the interior. Out with the OEM seats (bolster tear and seat bottom tear were repaired but there's a tear at the top corner of the seat back as well) and in with reupholstered OEM seats:
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Picked up a resprayed valve cover:
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Back on the Black Racing wheels:
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Now time for the valve cover install. New gasket, grommets and installed the Downstar engine dress up kit:
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Skunk2 and HR shift knob back on as well:
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Alignment time:
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Visiting fam:
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Some more goodies:
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Honda DC2 shift boot, Checkerd Sports shift knob, license plate frame mount and oil cap installed:
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Got some rubber on the TE's:
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TE's are on:
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Picked up some OEM floor mats. Unfortunately they don't have the "CRX" logo on them but they fit much better than the rep mats I have:
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Test fitting the ZC hood before going in for some paint work:
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Color matched the ZC hood, mirrors and door handles. Rear bumper was repaired then painted. Basically got the entire car painted except for the doors, fenders and front bumper. The rear washer nozzle, wiper hole on the hatch and on the wing were all shaved as well:
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After a cut and buff:
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Added a Carbing strut tower bar with master cylinder brace:
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Back on the TE's:
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Added ZC corner lamps (still looking for ZC headlights btw):
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A friend had this in storage for years. Rear cargo cover in one piece and in great shape:
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TE37X Progressive and TE37 OG:
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Goodnight.
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Looking good brutha!
I was able to be there with you to see all these steps in real-time over the past year+. But it's cool to re-live all of it here! Keep posting your updates!
Thanks for all the help with parts/wrenching and deciding on what to throw money at with this car...lol.

My posts sort of jump around from one thing to another but I wanted to keep it as close to chronological order as possible. At least I know that all this was done within the first year of ownership (06/2020-06/2021).

I don't have pictures of the OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion but that was done right before I took it in for paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
What size is the TE37's? I have a set of 15x7.5 on my Si and that was only the second set I'ver ever seen. Rare wheel for sure.
They鈥檙e 15x6.5 +45. I was really surprised to find them in brand new condition. The seller also had a set of Mugen MF10L's with tires on them. That's the set he used on his Civic so the TE's just sat for 15 years.
 

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They鈥檙e 15x6.5 +45. I was really surprised to find them in brand new condition. The seller also had a set of Mugen MF10L's with tires on them. That's the set he used on his Civic so the TE's just sat for 15 years.
Lucky guy. Looked new. I have four set of wheels for my 88 Si. OEM set, Enkei RPF01, SSR, and the Te37's. Like the SSR's best, lightest wheel also.
Rare wheels on rare cars are cool!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Lucky guy. Looked new. I have four set of wheels for my 88 Si. OEM set, Enkei RPF01, SSR, and the Te37's. Like the SSR's best, lightest wheel also.
Rare wheels on rare cars are cool!
Yup, still had the tags on them too (attached at the valve stem holes). I feel very lucky to be able to purchase them. I was unsure about using them just because of how long they had been stored for. I鈥檓 no collector though, so I threw them on as soon as I could.

So far I only have the 3 sets you see in my posts. I already feel that鈥檚 one too many. How do you decide which wheels to run?
 

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Yup, still had the tags on them too (attached at the valve stem holes). I feel very lucky to be able to purchase them. I was unsure about using them just because of how long they had been stored for. I鈥檓 no collector though, so I threw them on as soon as I could.

So far I only have the 3 sets you see in my posts. I already feel that鈥檚 one too many. How do you decide which wheels to run?
I use the Si as an Autocross car, even though it only has 70k original miles. I keep a set of Yok 052's mounted on the SSR's and TE37's. SSR's have the fresher set so I keep those for the big events, use the TE37's for local stuff with a more worn set of Yok's. SSR's are lighter by 6lbs/4, but are not as strong as the TE37's. Have a set of rains on the RPF's
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I use the Si as an Autocross car, even though it only has 70k original miles. I keep a set of Yok 052's mounted on the SSR's and TE37's. SSR's have the fresher set so I keep those for the big events, use the TE37's for local stuff with a more worn set of Yok's. SSR's are lighter by 6lbs/4, but are not as strong as the TE37's. Have a set of rains on the RPF's
Wow, 70k original miles, that's really low.

Having extra sets of wheels and tires makes sense for you since you autocross and need a set for the rainy season.
 

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For ZC lights the 88-89 are the same as what we got in the US. If you want the single bulb you will have to convert to the 90-91 corners. I can source you new Depo ZC glass lights. Otherwise, it鈥檚 just looking for uses on eBay and so forth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
For ZC lights the 88-89 are the same as what we got in the US. If you want the single bulb you will have to convert to the 90-91 corners. I can source you new Depo ZC glass lights. Otherwise, it鈥檚 just looking for uses on eBay and so forth.
Thanks for the offer, although I鈥檓 trying to stick to 88-89 as the zc corner lamps were hard to find and I really want to keep certain parts year specific.

Also, I鈥檝e seen both glass (edm) and plastic (jdm) zc/single bulb headlights for both 88-89 and 90-91. In fact, I had a set of JDM single bulb headlights on my previous 89 hf and my friend has a set on his 89 si:

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Just curious, are you able to source both the 90-91 single bulb headlights and zc corner lamps?
 
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