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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I got the correct replacement cap and rotor finally, and I couldn't start because my battery was too low. What is the minimum voltage I need across the terminals to start the battery? Is there a good way to check the dizzy/ignotion system to make sure it's getting adequate power?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I charged the battery and tried again, but still no spark! The coil is putting out power but for some reason it's not getting to the rotor. I have a new cap, but I'm going to go see if they gave me the wrong cap as well as teh wrong rotor. I'm getting really frustrated, after all the hassle of the motor swap and I can't get a damn spark to start the thing.
 

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Actually, it takes very little energy to fire your ignition system. If your alternator goes, your car will run on battery power alone for a surprisingly long time. Lights are brown, radio won't play, dash clock is dark... but the plugs keep firing and the injectors keep spewing fuel.

I've had this happen to me a few times!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok I'm really stuck now. Last night we determined that the injectors are not firing. I checked all the harness wiring again and it was fine. The car idled on a PM6 with the old OBD0 dizzy, so it must be in the new dizzy or the P28. I borrowed a known good P28 so that's not the problem. I replaced the ICM in the dizzy today thinking that was the problem... still no signal to the injectors. They do prime, but won't open when the starter is on. The weird thing is, I do get popping in the intake when I crank it long enough. Anyway, somebody help me, I'm really stuck now and I have no clue where to begin. It seems like every day I'm going up to the shop and making no progress, keep checking the same wiring over again, because I have no idea what could be causing this.
 

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How did you come to the conclusion that the injectors aren't firing? Noid light? Check for battery voltage on the red/blk wire at each injector with the ignition on. Is the thermostat ground clean and tight? All 3 distributor sensors check out resistance and short wise? The sensor rotors aren't damaged?
When I got my 'Z6 swap, the engine had a rebuilt distributor on it. After installation and wiring, it wouldn't fire up. In looking everything over, I discovered the **** poor job the rebuilders did on the solder connections. Cleaning the wires and re-soldering completely cured the problem - I've been running on that dizzy ever since. The stupid little details like that will get you. I guess it's to be expected if you pull the engine from a junked car - somebody already decided that the car has so many problems that it's not worth fixing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't have a light, but we used a speaker that worked on the DA teg. I wasn't convinced after that so my friend hooked up another manifold and sat it in the bay, with all the correct fuel and lines running to it. Nothing happened. I'm going to tear down the dizzy today, seems to be my only option.
 
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