[coldtotouch]

I'm curious is anyone knows, but what is the lightest set of brakes that you can get on a crx THAT HAVE BITE, specifically the Integra TYPE R Brake setup (both 4 or 5 lug) compared to the wilwood crx brake setup? Whats better? Is there anything superior to one of these?

 

[coldtotouch]

Thats some great information Seti. A few things i'd like to address:

I got mine from Fastbrakes, and I'm extremely happy with my new toys.
I got the optional dual piston Legend brakes instead of the integra ones.

Which model did you specifically get? Do you have a link to the part online by any chance?
Does it bolt on with ease or are there any necessary modifications required?
What master cylinder and propvalve are you using with this setup? (I'm assuming VT 15/16"? 40/40?)
Also what brakelines? (Something braided?)

Granted, they're a bit heavy. But I can't say I really notice it over my VT 10.2" brakes. However, USDM brakes are PUNY...

Would you say the legend braking system is heavier than the Type R? Does it bite harder? Is there a difference other than the extra lug on the 5 bolt Type R setup as opposed to the 4 both Type R setup?

That's why I decided to go for an 11" OEM setup front and rear.

How exactly did you go about doing this? i haven't seen much for the rear brakes, i'd love to have a more balanced brake setup, though i heard the back brakes don't do too much work...

so you probably will notice a difference in rotational mass. Makes the car a bit more stable.

I wouldn't mind that so much really, stability is something i could use, i feel myself getting pushed around on a windy day... i just don't want to add weight unnecessarily without being able to justify it.

I just got really lightweight wheels to compensate.

This is something i'm going to look into much deeper. What wheels did you choose to go with? Would you know what an average weight for a lighter wheel would be?

Anyone know any actual weights of braking systems? I searched around but didn't find too much information.

Also weaknesses in braking systems, similar to what Seti mentioned about Wilwood would be very helpful!

But they're also notorious for leaking, and having dust boot problems.

 

[coldtotouch]

oh, I looked up the packing slip for you.
The entire setup...
-Front rotors
-Rear rotors
-Front calipers
-Rear calipers
-Brake lines
-bolts, nuts, misc stuff
Weighed in at 45 pounds, including box, packaging materials and instruction leaflets.

This sounds like the route i'm going to want to go. Can you give me the setup in a little more detail... ie. whats really required for the swap...
thanks

 

[coldtotouch]

The bigger discs mean that they have to turn more per cycle...giving them more time to cool, and a larger surface area to transfer pad material to.

slotted or blanks? i've gotten a buddy who races tells me he swears by blanks... and would never do anything to harm the integrity of the disc. (ie. slots or cross drilled.) I can see how one wouldn't cross drill, but i think grooved slots are fine!

 

[coldtotouch]

Yes, drilled rotors crack. But in the defense of the manufacturer, you're supposed to replace them more often anyway.

Holes in the discs are also there for weight purposes. I got that off some porsche perfornance page. I'm not sure how much of an advantage it gives the relatively small honda rotors.

LOL! yes, you save about as much weight as you would switching to titanium lug nuts...

Plus, IMO, slotted rotors look great, not flashy like Porche cross-drilled dinner plates, but subtle like a sporty Honda should look.

Agreed! slotted rotors look very clean... much more practical imho...

So wheres the writeup Seti??? i know you must be real hard at work there putting it together for us :wink:

 

[coldtotouch]

I thought wilwoods leaked??? and had dust boot problems!

now they're good???

 

[coldtotouch]

cold: need a jacket?

Heh, thanks i'm fine for the moment (just don't touch)

Ah, welcome to the wonderful world of internet bandwagons... see, what happens, is a company will put out an amazing product, and it'll work -great-... then there will be this "one guy", who will come along, and do something retarded, like maybe diassemble the entire caliper before he installs it because he is curious, but maybe he doesn't know that there is a procedure to putting them back together, and maybe he should have just left it alone in the first place. Then he installs it on his car after hacking it back together, and likely tearing an o-ring, and it leaks... imagine that. Then, he goes online, and blasts Wilwood (a company who has been making braking systems for longer than that kid has been alive by the way), and then EVERYBODY thinks that Wilwood is crap cause they red it on da inturnet. The problem, is none of those kids know any better either, nor will they take the time to look into Wilwood as a company to see what the real story is... they just take that one kids word for it.

You're so right! i've seen it far too many times! Mind you, i'm the kid who reads and then swears against the product due to lack of knowledge/experience/money to try/fail/try/succeed....

That scenario happens with countless products out there. Practically the ONLY one that IS true for the most part, is OBX... they suck, stay away... faaaaaar away :lol:

Heh thats funny, i have a buddy who likes the OBX LSD for the D-Series... Infact, i was soon going to purchase that unit for a JDM D15B swap i was soon undertaking...

See... now do you understand why us kids get confused :?
Cause we really have no idea... i'm thinkin i'll start a new thread regarding the OBX LSD... :lol:

Anyway, i don't know where you read that Wilwoods leak

I read it from Seti around the beginning of this post...

but i can assure you they don't leak without help, and if they did, Wilwood would stand behind thier product and replace it with a new one. They are a good company like that

Thats what i like to hear... they were my weapon of choice until i read they leaked and had dust boot issues...

thanks for clearning that up

 

[coldtotouch]

Actually, this is the reason motorcycles have holes in the discs, it has to do with rotational inertia. I would imagine you aren't losing braking power because there is more than enough area already. I went through every page on stop tech last night and read them, again, I recommend it to anyone (thanks Bas). After you read all the stuff, go to the products section, they make cross drilled rotors, so there must be an advantage.
And what's wrong with racing lugnuts?!? I'm saving almost a pound with mine!

Sorry i wasn't trying to be serious... but still, i don't think anyone could justify to me that weight reduction is a reason to switch to crossdrilled...

and i would run the lightest lugnuts i found too!

 

[coldtotouch]

I was kind of joking about the lugnuts. I have some but I only bought them for security.

Oh i wasn't joking... i think lighter lugnuts are more practical than holes in your brakes... at the end of the day, people want all the edge they can get...