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Loosen the tensioner, 14mm bolt, about 1 turn so it moves freely. Use a long screwdriver to push down the tensioner to give you some slack, this is shown in the manual, but it's at a 45 degree angle or so down toward the tensioner pulley from the front of the motor. Set the timing, you canset the bottom end at TDC with the mark on the timing belt sprocket of the crank pulley, there is a mark on the block, or on the pulley part/timing cover, or you can put something down the plug hole, or you can look at it with the head off... Set the head at TDC by lining up the marks on the cam gear with the valve cover-head line, with "UP" facing up. Hold the tension out of the pulley and slip the belt on. The teeth should go around the cam and crank sprockets, and the water pump, while the back goes over the tensioner, so you have sort of a P shape, looking from the driver's side. Before you retighten the pulley, turn the crank over a few times. Now make sure the timing is dead on still, also, this centers the belt. Now you can retighten the tensioner pulley.
 

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You have to take off the outer part yes. Sorry I thought that was implied. Behind it there is a sprocket/gear thing that drives the timing belt.
Do you have a compressor/impact gun? If not, use a couple of strong bolts and a bar, put the bolts into the holes on the pulley and use the bar to stop it from moving against part of the car. Then use a couple of extensions on a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 6 point 17mm. Use a jack stand to hold the extensions level, and use the handle of your jack or something long as a cheater, it will come off. You will also need to support the motor and take off the driver's side mount to get the belt on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sweet man, so this is totally doable

ok one more ? when you say timing mark on the camshaft do you mean stragiht up or up with the angle of th emotor
 

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when you look at the cam gear, there will be three marks. If you call the "up" mark 12 o'clock, then the other two will be at 3 and 9. the marks at 3 and 9 will align with the surface of the head, and the up mark will point approximately straight up ( I think its slightly angled. The "up" mark is only there for reference)
 

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the motor should be pretty much straight up and down, but yes, alight the 2 hash marks with the surface of the head
 

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better yet...get you a paint pen or some sort of marker

draw one mark on the belt and the cam gear then draw another mark across the belt and the crank gear. you can put two marks on each gear to be more acurate. then take off your belt, stick the new belt up right next to it and copy over the marks. then you know exactly how to line up the belt with the gears. no worries about getting the other marks to line up just right. this is what i did when i changed my DX belt. made it very easy to do.
 

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a good trick for finding TDC in a cylinder:

Put a long, thin wooden dowel down the spark plug hole. as you turn the crank, the piston will push up the dowel, allowing you to determine when it reaches its highest possible point before starting to go back down.
 

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The marks you use to get the cam at TDC depends on the motor. On the DX and HF, you use the two marks across from eachother - line them up with the valve cover mating surface. On the Si, you line the single bottom mark up with the plastic pointer below the cam gear. It's a difference of about 1/2 a tooth.
 
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