Ok, I am 100% new to this and the only way that I even knew about this was because a friend recommended me here! I have a question, I just bought an '88 CRX DX that had 340,000 on it, 20,000 after have the head go!! Love these cars! I am swapping it out (something cheap, tight budget!!) with a newer motor....my question is do i need to swap the tranny too? I only had it about three days before I left for Iraq and it doesn't really run anyway so i don't know how much it slips or what not? I am not looking into making this a burner right now...that will come with time. Should i just worry about the clutch or go ahead and do both? :?
tranny question from a noob!
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If you're swapping the least you could do is take a look at the clutch disk and see how much material is left. The stock one has slots in the friction material, if they're almost gone (they're not as deep as the rivets) then the clutch is about worn out. You can get a new honda disk for $50 from hondaautomotiveparts.com, so it seems like not a bad idea if the one you've got looks worn. If there are grooves in the flywheel surface you might get that turned (usually pretty cheap, any automotive machine shop should be able to do this), the pressure plate is $110 if that's messed up, I'm not sure that can be resurfaced.
The '88 service manual says a new clutch disk is 0.319-0.346 inches thick and the service limit (it's worn out) is 0.224 inches. The depth to the rivets is supposed to be 0.051 in on a new clutch disk and the limit is 0.008 in.
If you got a newer transmission that you can use, you might as well use it, but if not, the D series transmissions are pretty bullet proof. You might have to learn to double-clutch if the syncros are weak. I replaced the mainshaft bearing on the clutch end in mine at about 150k because it "growled" when you accellerated or decelerated.
The '88 service manual says a new clutch disk is 0.319-0.346 inches thick and the service limit (it's worn out) is 0.224 inches. The depth to the rivets is supposed to be 0.051 in on a new clutch disk and the limit is 0.008 in.
If you got a newer transmission that you can use, you might as well use it, but if not, the D series transmissions are pretty bullet proof. You might have to learn to double-clutch if the syncros are weak. I replaced the mainshaft bearing on the clutch end in mine at about 150k because it "growled" when you accellerated or decelerated.
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209 Posts
first thing u need to do is the mpfi swap, otherwise any engine swap is stupid. after you do that then you have to decide what engine to use, no matter what engine u use if u do all the work to change that **** then change the tranny aswell. I asume u will swap the engine for a more powerfull one(like a DOHC ZC)and in anycase the dx tranny has ****ty fun gears
I am not 100% sure as to what engine I will be swapping it out with. It has to be under $900 because of budget issues and it has to be turn key because i am taking the money i was going to spend on a mech and put that into the engine, doing the work myself with some help from friends. So while i would like to put something with some more power into it I have to keep it fairly cheap 
!!
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