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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys i have a 88 crx si and here is my question the transmission so ive been told does not need transmision fluid since its not hydro after doing my own reserch and going to the local pep boys they told me to put regular motor oil on the trany which has a little nub on the right hand side right next to the wheel were you extract the old oil. my question is would that be accurate by putting regular motor oil or is there a thicker oil that can be place into the trany or just keep using regular motor oil ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i was looking at the honda mtf oil threw the web and i found a couple of threads on how to change the trany oil and i looked at one in particular that described it as being in his crx and there was a pic that showed to nubs one for draining and the other for filling i have not seen one like that on my trany but i might have over looked it so im asking the community is are there two nubs for the changing of the trany oil ?
 

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There are two plugs to remove. The lower is the drain plug, the top is the fill plug...it's above and to the left of the drain plug, and you'll want to use a 17mm box-end wrench to get it loose, a socket doesn't fit and an open-end wrench can round it off, so use the right tool.

Pull the fill plug first, that way a) you'll know you can get it off and you won't get stuck unable to fill it and b) it will help the fluid drain faster. I used a cheap fluid pump from the auto parts store, or you can use a funnel with a hose on it to fill from the top of the engine bay. Fill it until fluid comes out of the fill hole, then it's full. You can also fill through the hole where the reverse light switch is, but I haven't ever done it that way. It should take just under 2 quarts.

Originally, Honda called for 10W30...but oil has changed through the years, so they now recommend their own Honda MTF (get it at the parts counter at the dealership), which is basically oil without the additives it now has. A lot of guys run Pennzoil Synchromesh (get it at Autozone) with good results, especially if you get some grinding in certain gears. It's basically the same weight, just has some friction modifiers to help reduce grinding, etc.

Good luck...hope this helps.

EDIT: The drain plug has a square hole in it...just slip a 3/8" (I think) ratchet with no socket into the hole to loosen it.
 

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I was thinking of using the Royle Purple tranny fuild but was told it was to thin to run and you would grand gears. Think im picking up Honda MTF before going to the garage day to change it out there. But i would like to know what makes it better as well?
 

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I've read that they specified 10W30 originally, but that over time oil companies began putting more and more additives into their oils. Good for your engine, but not really for your transmission. So, Honda made Honda MTF, which is now the specified fluid for Honda transmissions originally specced for 10W30. It's supposed to be like 10W30 without the additives that new engine oil has -- I'm talking about detergents, things like that -- and possibly with some friction modifiers or something else added to it to make it a better transmission fluid. 10W30 will probably work fine, but it's only a few more bucks to step up to the Honda MTF.

Whatever you do, don't run a thick manual transmission fluid or gear oil or anything like that. Don't use a synthetic motor oil to "treat" your transmission -- synthetic actually makes for a worse transmission fluid, or so I've read. I would use Honda MTF if I had a great low-mileage transmission, Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh (GM costs twice as much) if I had a higher-mileage one that liked to grind and needed some help, and regular old 10W30 in a pinch if I couldn't get the Honda stuff.
 

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bittles110 said:
I would recommend using Honda MTF. You will need two quarts.
That's my personal experience too. Originally 10w-30 motor oil was recommended in the owner's manual and service manual. Sometime in the mid 90's honda came out with the MTF and that works way better than 10w-30.

And in the opposite direction, I put Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 in one time and changed it again in about a week because it reduces friction in the syncros and makes it much harder to shift.
 
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