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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its basically a durable enamel paint that can be used without any primer, and i think it's only available in Canada. I initially got the idea of using this paint from this forum: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1. Some guy painted a couple of his cars by just repeatedly rolling it on and wetsanding and came up with sum very nice results. I've been thinking about rattle canning my car for now; but after i saw this thread, tremclad sounds like a more cheaper, easier, and better looking solution.
So i dunno...im guessin it's kinda like rustoleum paint?

This is a pic the guy posted up with his thread when he used the tremclad on his beetle: http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00164.jpg

And this is the condition of my paint as of right now (plz mind the bigass 17s..i dun got them on nemore lol):
http://crxcommunity.com/gallery/mai...2_GALLERYSID=2f7636a571eecaa3fba0b066e92991de
 

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I'm not sure what the equivalent is in the states. Tremclad is made in Canada by Tremco (tremcoinc.com). Maybe the export under a different brand name?

One problem with Tremclad paint though... if you use it, you cannot use Lacquer or Urethane Enamels over it if you want to repaint your car again later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
baker_jeff said:
I'm pretty sure there is a US equivalent. I remember reading it on one of the forums when that guy became famous and everyone wanted that paint lol.
haha well i just found that infamous 43 page thread, and rustoleum was the other enamel other people had used besides tremclad. im gonna head over to home depot today and see what types of rustoleum they have to offer.
 

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lol, i was wondering when someone from this forum would bring the whole tremclad/rustoleum thing up.

i actually painted my project car with this method..



some people think it's a single stage paint job, while others think it's factory sprayed! i'll try to post more pics later if you want to see a higher resolution.. those pics are from the early stages of paint.

im already finished with the car, im just waiting for my sunroof, engine, and windsheild to come in so i can start attaching all the pieces back together. i ordered each from different companies and they're all conveniently backordered! this wait seems like hell!

but yeah, i used rustoleum gloss white. stay away from smoke gray cause as you can see on my hood it looks like it's just primer.

painting it was easy.. prepping the body (bondo/masking/all hours sanding) is what really got to me with this project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Damn ender not bad! howd u go about painting it? I've read to do about 2 coats at a time for 6 coats, and sanding with finer grit in between. And did u use mineral spirits when u thinned out tha rustoleum? Had any trouble with bubbles?

I wanna see more pics! haha
 

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http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=173564049&size=l
here's a larger photo... i dont have pics of my final yet.

the number of coats depend on how many colors you use. for example, if you're painting white like me on to dark blue, it took me about 10 really thin coats. also, i've learned that red and yellow are really transparent, so it would help to lay a base coat of primer to get a solid color faster. wet sand between every two coats with 600 grit in an X pattern till the surface looks evenly flat.

i thinned the paint using mineral spirits to paint maybe about 60/40.. it might be different for you depending on where you live. a good way to check the mixture is by making bubbles by stirring it around, 90% of the bubbles should pop on their own within 30 seconds. i've learned it's better to be thin than thick!

one way i evened out the paint and got rid of bubbles was right after applying each coat, i squeezed all the paint out of my roller (using a very clean plastic bag) and went over the whole pannel really lightly and quickly. what happens is the roller absorbs the excess paint laid down and also pops the bubbles in the process.

i didnt sand my final coat like everyone else did though cause i was content with the way it looked. the trick is all in wet sanding between each 2 coats.
 

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Pete said:
I tried the same paintjob and failed miserably.
Please don't paint your car with the same paint your neighbor repaints his deck furniture with. (nothing personal, pete, just a note to all)
 

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Ragnaarok said:
Pete said:
I tried the same paintjob and failed miserably.
Please don't paint your car with the same paint your neighbor repaints his deck furniture with. (nothing personal, pete, just a note to all)
I didn't. Rustoleum is the paint that you are supposed to use for the roll on paint job. My problem is that I didn't get it thin enough. I am going to try again though in a couple weeks:





 

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I can't imagine how hard it must be to ROLL paint on a car and get it nice, it's so hard spraying in the first place. If you get it right with that roll on job, you deserve a gold medal, or seven virgins, or something great...
 

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Ragnaarok said:
I can't imagine how hard it must be to ROLL paint on a car and get it nice, it's so hard spraying in the first place. If you get it right with that roll on job, you deserve a gold medal, or seven virgins, or something great...
Well many people have done it successfully actually. You'd be surprised. The key to making it look nice is spending ALOT of time on the prep work, getting the body as smooth as possible and filling all the dents and fixing all the rust. As for making the paint look nice, you need to apply several coats of very thin paint than wetsand it between each 2 coats. It takes a lot of patience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, u'd definately need to thin out the paint more as seen from the pics. Also after ur final coat, try removing most of the of orange peel with fine grit. Then with a polisher use a fine cutting polish; I used meguiars no. 2, then a follow up with a glaze polish like meguiars no. 5. Then after that, wax it with any wax you choose. When i painted my car, my neighbor across tha street gave me sum pointers since he use to work at an autobody shop. Hope it helps u out a bit.
 

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Looks miles too thick, and is that after you sanded it?

Props on trying though, I think I may try this on my beater. It appears prep is critical as is getting the paint on in super thin coats so you can sand it.
 
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