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You have three options once the nuts are loose:

a) BFH (rap hard on the side of the area where the tapered bolt goes through. when you thinks it too hard, its not hard enough. this should pop them)

b) pickle fork (this works very quickly but will destroy your boots and get grease all over. you need to buy new boots from honda and repack them with grease.)

c) ball joint seperator tool (this thing is like a scissor that sqeezes on the top of the control arm and the bottom of the bolt area to pop it out. no damage will occur.)

BFH works for most people most of the time. pickle fork will work if the hamer doesn't and have no time or money to spend. Just rent one from autozone, etc. The ball joint seperator tool is nice to have if you have the time and money to find one.
 

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YES, big hammer.... do NOT use a pickle fork, those things suck... and a balljoint separator is just a waste of time. Apply a little pressure in the direction it should go to be removed, and hit the side of the cast steel with a small sledge until the balljoint pops loose.... if you look at the cast steel, you'll even see raised areas that are made to get hit by the hammer :)

I used to use the picklefork method, but the hammer is WAY easier, and you never destroy a boot.

TIP: Leave the nut threaded on the bottom a few threads in case you miss with the hammer, you won't crush the threads :lol:
 

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For the application you are referring to, i agree, a separator tool is ideal... (what racecar are you working on that actually uses a tapered balljoint, anyway? most use heim joints, or pillowball joints on everything... well, except for lile NASCAR cars which use OEM-type suspension)

But we aren't exactly talking about fragile race cars here, are we? ;)
 

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No, these were just small time scca racers. but i modified a lot of civic front knuckles to run at the limit of factory negative camber which required removing them from the car and using a tape measure, plumb bob, and a big f^cking hydraulic press. :D
 

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If you do use a pickle fork put a ton of grease on the end of the fork. This helps it slip past the rubber boot and helps to not rip it. It may still rip however, just a bit less likely.
 

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Hit the lower part on both joints... the part that is cast into the actual steering knuckle. On the tie-rod/steering joint, you'll want tosomehow apply a tad bit of upward force to the tire rod though at the same time.... on my lift, i lower the car down onto a pole i made specifically for holding things when a car is in the air... like an extended jack. But on the ground, a section of 2x4 or something could be placed under it so that it pushes up on the tie rod, and then when you hit the knuckle-side of the joint, it will vibrate it loose, and de-seat it.

The upper will de-seat on its own, since it has the weight of the knuckle pulling down on it to help it de-seat when you hit it.
 

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How hard did you hit?.... it won't come off in one hit, thats for sure... just keep hitting it, and like jmart said: "when you thinks it too hard, its not hard enough"

and make sure there is tension pulling the joint out of the hole, otherwise you'll hit it, but it may not come loose easy.
 

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You have to put upward tension on the tie-rod end.

This is one of those things where it REALLY helps to have someone there show you exactly what it looks like and how to do it your first time... from there, it'll be easy as pie. The first one you ever do is always a pain.
 

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OKay, you need to make sure you are hitting sideways on the female part/the knuckle side. SOunded like you said you were hitting down. Ya, and make sure to put upward pressure on the bolt like composi said.
 

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omg i ripped the boots wtf.............. dangit when i lifted my motor i ripped them boots and forgot.
how much do they cost??

i believe ur suppose to hit the nut on the bottom and pull up while hitting it. if u had 2 pplz it would work. but im not sure wut there saying. so dont listen to me unless some1 smarter who doesnt rip there boots tells ya. OMGGGGG more and more money on my freakin car.
 

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DONT HIT THE NUT FROM THE BOTTOM!

You'll wind up bending the balljoint thread section, and you'll have to put new balljoints in.... Youre suppoed to hit the side, but at a slight angled motion that angles away from the top of the balljoint (or rather, away from the direction that the balljoint will come out of the arm)...
 

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you can try using two hammers, hold one against a side of it, then hit the other side with a big hammer
 

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Important ball joint separator tip. Once you know where you need to place the separator or to bang on the threaded part of a ball joint with a hammer, don't use a hammer and get a mini sledge. that's what I used to separate the torsion bars from the wheel hubs when I changed out my CV axles. I used a rubber mallet on the axles themselves to separate them and install new ones. When it comes to solid suspension bits like this, use the big guns. The lower suspension on this car is sturdier than the lower suspension on my 4300 pound Impala so don't be shy.
 
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