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I've been thinking of doing this forawhile, and I pretty much decided I'm gonna do it. I've never seen it before, but I'm willing to try it out. I figured I would show it on here, and see what you guys think. I think it would stiffen the chassis and clean the frontend up allot. Mabey even drop a lb or two, but I doubt it.
Here is a pic of my car w/o an engne, or anything else for that matter from the firewall forward.
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This what I plan to do. All the black is removed stuff, and the new stuff is easy to see. The front z10 crossmember has 2 tubes, it's the only design I know of like that so I figured I would specify. I will remove all the sheet metal, and that stupid lower rad support peice that isn't even used anymore. Then I will plate the end of the frame rail, and run a 1.5" .120 wall peice of tubbing the whole width from rail to rail, and notching the tube in half, and welding it where it meets the plate on the end, and also welding the part where is wraps around the side of the frame rail. The lower part of the headlight bucket would be welded to the tube aswell, to futher stiffen up the frontend. I will also weld the Z-10 crossmember onto the chassis, in attempt to gain even more rigitity.
It would look something like this:
![]()
Here is a pic of my car w/o an engne, or anything else for that matter from the firewall forward.
This what I plan to do. All the black is removed stuff, and the new stuff is easy to see. The front z10 crossmember has 2 tubes, it's the only design I know of like that so I figured I would specify. I will remove all the sheet metal, and that stupid lower rad support peice that isn't even used anymore. Then I will plate the end of the frame rail, and run a 1.5" .120 wall peice of tubbing the whole width from rail to rail, and notching the tube in half, and welding it where it meets the plate on the end, and also welding the part where is wraps around the side of the frame rail. The lower part of the headlight bucket would be welded to the tube aswell, to futher stiffen up the frontend. I will also weld the Z-10 crossmember onto the chassis, in attempt to gain even more rigitity.
It would look something like this:
