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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
wuts the potential of a turbo d16 with a y8 or z6 head? like im about to take the engine out of the car (d16a6) and gonna put it on a engine stand and work on it. i was planning on turboing it and getting it tuned in fredricksburg
www.promotiontuning.com (LUMPY you heard of them)
Pro-Motion Tuning, LLC
20 Commerce Pkwy Suite 101
Fredericksburg, VA 22406
1-877-724-6682

So wut stuff can i get done to it to make it more durable to the high psi and redlining lol. And overall wut kinda of power can i get with a basic turbo setup. im looking for the 200 hp range. for right now. and i wanna get a turbo or turbo kit that i can basically swap over to another engine if need be (when i blow this 1) i would eventually wanna go with a b series (maybe when i can afford it)

OMg i might get some nawwwss dude i got about 3 grand to spend all together so wut are the possiblitys i wanna start with this engine then go from there so no b series yet.
 

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Rods Rods Rods. If your going anywhere near 200 hp, you will need some new rods. Honestly though, why would you not just swap a B in now and save some cash. If you have 3 grand, you can build a decent B16 or B18 and make much more hp in the long run.
 

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d-series all the way. explative the nay sayers.
 

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i'm not bashing the d series, i drive one and love it.

If you do go D series, like a said, Connecting rods NEED to be replaced. I'm sure people can show you pictured of the destruction those can cause.
 

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Tiersin said:
i'm not bashing the d series, i drive one and love it.

If you do go D series, like a said, Connecting rods NEED to be replaced. I'm sure people can show you pictured of the destruction those can cause.
That is not necessarily true.
I know a guy(Mista Bone from Ohio and another fella Bisi Ezohera(sp?))
That have put the D series into the 200's with no rod failure whatsoever.
Now I know all this is personal preferrence.
I am boosting a turbo MINI me and I should be darn close to that number,and I have had no problems.
I will dyno the car sometime here in the near future.That way I will have a more accurate figure to share with the community.
I would'nt necessarily say that they absolutely NEED to be.Maybe its more like its wise to start thinking about rod upgrades if you want reliability in the long run.
just my .02
 

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I'm not sure how high a d-series can go in terms of power. But if you want a high power motor you've got to build the bottom end for strength, and the top end for maximum flow. So that means forged rods and pistons, and arp rod bolts. Top end you probably want to port and polish the hell out of the head, go with new valves and titanium retainers and stiffer springs and a big cam, a good intake, header exhaust, etc. also you need to go obd1 with a fuel and ingnition mapped p28. then maybe you can hit 250hp?
 

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A couple 2-3 years back, a friend bolted on a moderate turbo kit to his single cam, and ran a ton of boost (~20psi on a SC61 T3)... made like 320whp, and ran mid-11's with it... stock motor.

Kicked arse until the motor let go after its second pass on the track :p :lol: But it would have lasted longer if he didn't have fuel issues, and an ignition issue.

With GOOD tuning, a lot is possible... 200 whp? I'd say that is definitely doable.
 

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I'm sure people can show you pictured of the destruction those can cause.

total fluke :wink:
As you can see, I'm one of those people who has broken a D-rod, and that was a stock A6. Now I'm running a high compression mini-me, still on stock rods. I think with a correct tune, and a healthy motor, they should be fine. If you are that worried, have them shot-peened for cheap. Seriously, even if you replace 2 D series blocks you still could be spending less than a set of forged rods.

ComposiMo said:
A couple 2-3 years back, a friend bolted on a moderate turbo kit to his single cam, and ran a ton of boost (~20psi on a SC61 T3)... made like 320whp, and ran mid-11's with it... stock motor.

Kicked arse until the motor let go after its second pass on the track Razz Laughing But it would have lasted longer if he didn't have fuel issues, and an ignition issue.

With GOOD tuning, a lot is possible... 200 whp? I'd say that is definitely doable.
Wow John! I thought you forgot what even a B-series motor looks like!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i wanna go d series cause everyone else goes b's why be the same. Well in general every1 is swapping in b16 and 18 and thats probably the smart way to go for hp, but i wanna be diffrent.
 

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aint nothing wrong with a turbo d. :p

A car im working on right now (97 civic ex coupe) is set to put down over 200whp (the car we pulled the turbo kit from did, and it was the same car)

the setup (everything stock unless otherwise noted
Stock d16y8 with a new head gasket and ARP head studs
RX7 550cc injectors
Greddy manifold and downpipe with cutout
Some ghetto ass t25
DSM Sidemount Intercooler
Ebay BOV
TXS MBC
2" Chrge piping
Stealthmode Oil Lines
2.25" midpipe with a Greddy SP2 Axle back
Crome Pro and Innovate LC1 Wideband

Car should make over 200whp @ 10 psi

My car made 242whp @ 15psi with a d16z6 motor and an edelbrock turbo kit. Im shooting for 300whp now.

My Setup
Z6 Block, completely rebuilt OEM except for
75.5mm SRP Pistons (10:1)
Eagle HBeam Rods
ARP Mains and Rod Bolts
ACL Bearings

Y8 Head
Zex Valvetrain
Zex 59500 Turbo Cam
AEM Cam Gear

Port Matched Skunk2 Manifold and BBK TB
Precision 750cc Injectors
Edelbrock Manifold and Downpipe
Hallman MBC
GT2560R
Tial BOV
3" Downpipe back exhaust
Spearco FMIC

ACT XTHD4 Puck Clutch
ACT Street Flywheel
Quaife ATB

Zdyne Engine management
Innovate LM1 Wideband

I think thats all thats relevant....

and yes, I will kick my own B series butt haha
 

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shot peening helps but doesn't solve the problem that the rods are weak. it increases the rod life span at said force but if the rod was going to fail before, it still will at that force, it just may take a little longer for it to fail. it also helps with hairline fractures/cracks.

upgrade the rods AND rod bolts for a tubo set-up you want to last. also need better sleeves and bla bla bla.

everybody has heard of so and so who ran their stock D on so much boost and it ran just fine...but for how long? i've seen so many people brag that they were able to do it and then later on come back and say they blew their motor. do it right the first time...or stay NA!!!
 

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Synoptic bent a rod the day before N11 last year. Boosted D16. I didn't really get to hear how much boost or anything, but he brought the rod with him. (He replaced it that night and drove to N11 the next day.)
 

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jfish360 said:
i wanna go d series cause everyone else goes b's why be the same. Well in general every1 is swapping in b16 and 18 and thats probably the smart way to go for hp, but i wanna be diffrent.
You think like me. Maybe you should consider a ZC. I'm thinking about a ZC swap for several reasons. 1. Because every one does a B swap! 2. cheaper! Complete swap about $800 3. I'm not a power hungry teenager. 4. It's only about 35 HP less than a B16.
A ZC bolts rights up to your current tranny, uses the stock wire harness, you can use your stock ECU but you will get better power with a ZC ECU. A stock D16=106HP, ZC=130HP, B16=165HP? My dream set up is a ZC with a Jackson Racing Supercharger. Yes I said Supercharger, because turbos are like a**holes, every bodys got one, and they stink! :lol: As you can tell I don't like to follow the crowd.
As for Pro-Motion Tuning I got one of their flyers in the mail and have been meaning to go check out their shop. Their prices on their website look kind of high though. But thanks for reminding me I think I will go by their next week, I'll let you know what I think.
 

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crxfisher said:
Synoptic bent a rod the day before N11 last year. Boosted D16. I didn't really get to hear how much boost or anything, but he brought the rod with him. (He replaced it that night and drove to N11 the next day.)
Wastegate acuator problem, boost surged to over 15 PSI, that's why it bent ;P
 
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