[RamaCrx]

This is an offshoot of the previous thread.

Not that I want to throw money away, but I'm not going to be looking for "deals" that may or may not be worthwhile. I've been burned on Ebay before on used items. You have very little recourse actually.

Here is a kit with a Garrett t25bb

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/turbo- ... treme.html

It has most of what was suggested and seems not too radical and not too cheap. Internal waste gate, low boost, castiron manifold, etc.
I really want a kit since I need someone to fall back on if I run into trouble with the install. This seems like Garrett's standard kit and I'm sure it has been done MANY times.

What do you think?

Anyone with other options in kit format?

Richie

 

[Tiersin]

"pop off valve"? do they meen blow off valve?

 

[baker_jeff]

Get a bigger turbo.

www.homemadeturbo.com

 

[mattminerDOTcom]

its got alot of stuff you shouldnt be using as well, like secondary injectors and a piggyback control box.

That defintely isnt any standard kit ive seen. The other thing to remmeber is that here really isnt too many bolt on kits for our cars...most of the kits are for 92+ and tegs 94+.

All you have to do is make a list of parts needed, acquire all the parts, and install. Id be glad to help you make sure you get every part necessary for a smooth install. The hardest thing to do yourself is to fab up charge piping, everything else is just installation. What ecu are you runng the B16 with now? and teh motor is all stock internally? do you have AC? are you planning on keeping it?

That kit defintely doesnt look like anything special imho.

 

[mattminerDOTcom]

Okl, i just looked harder, adn did some searching aroudn their site. Ive never seen a kit made specifically for B series in a crx, but it seems thats exactly what this is listed for. Thats pretty cool

Id want to know alot more details abotu the specific parts though before i dropped 3k on a kit. Find out exactly what turbo its including, what typ eof manifold, what BOV, etc etc.

[email protected]

 

[ComposiMo]

Fall back on friends on this site to help you, not some guy sitting behind a desk who probably never touches the product (since it is drop-shipped from the manufacturer) trying to make money off of you. For the price of that kit, you can definitely do better IMHO...

Baker: Why get a bigger turbo? a T25 would actually perform very well in a stock-based setup.... super quick spool, and its capable of flowing more than enough air for the power level hell be running at. He'll have to run more boost, sure, but thats not a big deal AT ALL... I'd rather have the quick spool, and better powerband rather than a slow spool and peaky powerband 8)

 

[RamaCrx]

I have a stock bottom end b16. The head is ported/polished and titanium retainers and heavy springs. It is converted to obd1. I run a hondata s200 on a p28 ecu. intake is skunk2, tb is enlarged, and I have type r cams. (I understand the cam may actually make this perform worse with turbo) Last incomplete tune, was having a problem, I had 160whp on the dyno. The rest of the engine mods are minor.

I looked for a "log" manifold. Hard to come by. There are those nice ramhorn ones around that I've seen from full race. Turbo, I really don't know what to get. I understand Garrett is a good one with the ball bearings. Reliable is VERY important too me. I don't want to be dealing with cracked manifolds, burned out turbo's or worse yet, a fried engine. Fabricating the charge pipe is not something I can do, but I guess I could ask around the guys at the track and see how they did it. A lot of them however are running these setups that break all the time and fry the engines periodically. When they are running they are FAST, but that's not consistantly.

Other than the Garrett T25bb what other ones do you suggest? Other manifold?

 

[ComposiMo]

Nah.... keep the cams, your tuner should be happy about them being there

So anyway, you already have a lot of things that you need, most importantly would be the Hondata... thats cool!

As for the manifold, contact Bob at RCAutoWorks... he's been building some nice stuff these days, and can build you the manifold and accompanying downpipe. He SHOULD be able to do an intercooler piping kit for you as well, and if not, there are lots of places out there that sell kits that can get you CLOSE.... you may have to cut a tube here or there, maybe even add a connector, but all visible piping should be able to be done and looking GOOD.

For instance, if you bought one of the RCAutoWorks "Mini" manifolds and downpipes, you should be able to buy this charge piping kit from kteller.com for only $400 (which is a STEAL for aluminum piping), and have it work for you with VERY minimal modifications.

Stay away from people who have more ballsthan brains.... if they constantly blow stuff up, do NOT expect their advise to do any better for you either. Go to them if you need help with the fabrication, but hwen they offer advise, listen and nod your head, but double check it ALL before you do it... and when they say "Nah, get a BIG turbo, you can get 300hp with less than 10psi of boost, and it'll run GREAT", run away... believe me, you won't be happy with a car like that.... well, you MAY, cause it'll still be fast, but you'd be HAPPIER with something setup better. Don't get talked into the HP dyno-queen wars... the proof is in the pudding... on the street, i'd rather have a 280whp turbo car rather than a 450whp turbo car... same with street tires at the track for the most part, slicks are another story though... haha!

Just be careful... you CAN have a very reliable setup, and have it do everything you'd want it to do if you just play SMART, and don't get "gung-ho"... lol.

As for another turbo, maybe look into something like a T3 'Super 60'... internally gated, and it'll allow you to at a later date, easily upgrade if you ever do decide to make more power... with the T25, you're stuck with a smaller flange that will limit your turbo choices depending on your power goals (Some T28's can make some NICE power, and use the same flange), but T3's are easier to find, and you can still accomplish the goals with a smaller one.

There is a lot to all of this, but it all makes sense after a while... just K.I.S.S!

 

[ComposiMo]

Actually, i just read something you said about cracked manifolds and stuff..... very well understood, and by far the most reliable manifold on the market, and actually its what i'd buy if i wanted a VERY reliable manifold, is the Inline Pro Cast Stainless manifold. One of my friends made around 600whp on one, and had it for 3-4 years in his turbo car with no issues at all... it now lives happily on THIS CARAlso, pretty much all the manifold builders out there can easily make a downpipe for it, and it is also a/c compatible... you'll have to buy/fabricate a block-off plate for the external wastegate port on it, since it is cast into it, but thats not a big deal... www.atpturbo.com sells those block-offs pretty cheap.

 

[mattminerDOTcom]

Wow, it seems like you have a great platform with which to start. dont worry abotu your cams, they will be fine.

a t25 like a GT2560R will be good enough to get you close to 300whp if you wish, so I wouldnt worry about it being to small, and its internally wastegated.

for a manifold, you could find a used greddy manifold. If you want new, im partial to lovefab manifolds. (or any od composimos suggestions)

that piping kit looks great, especially with tbolt clamps and all. you could grab that and a JRC intercooler.

Then just find a blow off valve, a manual boost controller, some injectors (450cc or higher). Grab a set of stealthmode oil lines, run some water lines, get retuned and you are good to go.

[email protected]

 

[baker_jeff]

Baker: Why get a bigger turbo?

Hahaha, it's kind of an inside thing... with... myself. :lol:

Richie: Click the link, and start reading!

 

[RamaCrx]

Thanks for all the great advise!!! I'm going to start accumulating parts and I will keep you all informed as I go along to check, since I am a turbo virgin. :rolleyes1:

I didn't want to just buy parts, listening to parts dealers who often know less than I do, and try to sell you what they are trying to get rid of, without a plan.
I think I got a good plan now.

 

[ComposiMo]

I didn't want to just buy parts, listening to parts dealers who often know less than I do, and try to sell you what they are trying to get rid of

Thats -exactly- what you'll get if you buy a 'kit'...

 

[RamaCrx]

Is it worth it to get a rebuilt?

http://www.westcoast-turbo.com/turboa.html

Save about $250 on the turbo.

 

[ComposiMo]

Thats up to you and their warranty, and how much you think you can trust their work... lol. But its not always bad, as long as the rebuild was done right, and it was re-balanced, etc...

For instance, the T3 turbo i had on my old yellow car (purchased brand new) was rebuilt after i pulled it off of my car, and we put on Jonny Blacks CRX, and it is still running great to this day... it was rebuilt by a turbo-specialist here in town, rebalanced, etc... but it runs fine.

I try not to recommend this option though, because its always best for you to buy brand new, because then you have peace of mind, and a great manufacturers warranty if anything ever goes wrong. Also, the turbo is the single most important mechanical component in a turbocharged setup, and if it isn't up to par, then the entire setup will suffer.

 

[jfrolang]

this thread has great info... I'm bookmarking it. b

 

[RamaCrx]

Ok I'm going to buy the turbo first. This looks like the best price I have found online:

http://www.spoolinperformance.com/garre ... 4366b9bf70

Is this about right? Do I need to specify what I want the wastegate set to or do they give you a few springs to change it?

I am going to call to the speed shops in Portland and see if they will meet the price if you guys don't think its a rip. (no sales tax and no shipping then)

 

[ComposiMo]

Thats a good site to buy from...

It should come pre-set at around 10psi... talk to Spoolin before ordering it to verify though. But no, there is no changing it with springs... you can alter the rod length, but the best thing to do would be to get a manual boost controller at the very least (electronic if you want to spend some $$).

As with ANY boost controller, you cannot lower the boost lower than the spring is set to, but you can always raise it.

 

[mattminerDOTcom]

^what he said.

[email protected]

 

[mattminerDOTcom]

^what he said.

[email protected]