Downest has a link in his profile with some good writeups, I'd check there. If not, check www.theoldone.com
Excellent, someone has the correct info on hand.GSRCRXsi said:first off, verify that you have ARP bolts in the rods before you go torquing them to ARP specs. they should say ARP on them on the top. if they arent ARP bolts just torque them to stock torque, 33 lb-ft.
second, if they are ARP bolts, take them to a machine shop and have the big end bore checked for out of round. when installing ARP bolts, they distort the bore. rods must be resized.
third, the BEST way to install rods is by stretching the bolts. instead of torquing them which can be very inaccurate (unless you have something like a snap-on digital wrench) you measure the stretch of the bolts. ARP calls for .0075-.0079" stretch. if you dont want to buy a stretch guage (ARP or better are the only ones worth it $150+. cheaper ones have weak springs that cant support their own weight, making them a royal PITA to use) you can follow ARP's torquing instructions. be sure to read and follow their instructions to the T. apply a good amount of the moly lubricant to the threads. torque to 40 lb-ft, then loosen, retorque. loosen, and retorque one final time. this works the moly lubricant into the threads and increases the accuracy.
id also advise investing in a GOOD torque wrench. $20 special from pep boys, i wouldnt trust for engine building. crasftman are pretty decent and should be sufficient.
good call. always match rods to the crank.mrspeaker1 said:I hope you're not planning on using the b18a crankshaft...you need a gsr 1.8 crankshaft