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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have some Type R pistons with GSR Rods and im getting ready to put them on my B18A1 block but i was wondering at what tourque do the piston rods have to be tightened to. and does anyone have a write ups on how to put the pistons on the block and what tools to use
 

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You need a ring compressor to get the pistons in. You can buy one from craftsman for under 20 bucks, but if you can find a snap-on scissor style one it's much easier to use. Basically you just compress the rings on the piston, set it on the deck, and then tap it down with a mallet or a hammer with a piece of wood to get it in the block. I don't know the torque specs offhand but they should be in the service manual.

I would recommend using ARP rod bolts, they are relatively cheap (under $40) and they come with the torque specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i think the rod bolts are already arp and they were already on the pistons when i got them so i dont have the package that they came with, another question my brother sort on mentioned that when i drop the type r pistons that they are suppost to be in a specific order i think he said one clock wise and the other counter clock wise and so forth but i really dont know because ive never done it thats why i was wondering if anyone has a write up of it
 

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ARP bolts are fine to re-use, ARP gives torque and stretch specs for installation with the bolts. I don't have the sheet here (it's in NY) but I think that the torque is 28 foot pounds (someone else chime in here). You have to tighten and loosen them three times before actually torquing them to spec.

If you aren't sure, I wouldn't re-use them, since OEM bolts aren't supposed to be re-used.

I don't know anything about the rotating you're talking about, but I imagine they have intake and exhaust sides that are different, based on the valve reliefs on the piston face.
 

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first off, verify that you have ARP bolts in the rods before you go torquing them to ARP specs. they should say ARP on them on the top. if they arent ARP bolts just torque them to stock torque, 33 lb-ft.

second, if they are ARP bolts, take them to a machine shop and have the big end bore checked for out of round. when installing ARP bolts, they distort the bore. rods must be resized.

third, the BEST way to install rods is by stretching the bolts. instead of torquing them which can be very inaccurate (unless you have something like a snap-on digital wrench) you measure the stretch of the bolts. ARP calls for .0075-.0079" stretch. if you dont want to buy a stretch guage (ARP or better are the only ones worth it $150+. cheaper ones have weak springs that cant support their own weight, making them a royal PITA to use) you can follow ARP's torquing instructions. be sure to read and follow their instructions to the T. apply a good amount of the moly lubricant to the threads. torque to 40 lb-ft, then loosen, retorque. loosen, and retorque one final time. this works the moly lubricant into the threads and increases the accuracy.

id also advise investing in a GOOD torque wrench. $20 special from pep boys, i wouldnt trust for engine building. crasftman are pretty decent and should be sufficient.

about ring clocking, i clocked mine according to what the helms manual said:

 

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GSRCRXsi said:
first off, verify that you have ARP bolts in the rods before you go torquing them to ARP specs. they should say ARP on them on the top. if they arent ARP bolts just torque them to stock torque, 33 lb-ft.

second, if they are ARP bolts, take them to a machine shop and have the big end bore checked for out of round. when installing ARP bolts, they distort the bore. rods must be resized.

third, the BEST way to install rods is by stretching the bolts. instead of torquing them which can be very inaccurate (unless you have something like a snap-on digital wrench) you measure the stretch of the bolts. ARP calls for .0075-.0079" stretch. if you dont want to buy a stretch guage (ARP or better are the only ones worth it $150+. cheaper ones have weak springs that cant support their own weight, making them a royal PITA to use) you can follow ARP's torquing instructions. be sure to read and follow their instructions to the T. apply a good amount of the moly lubricant to the threads. torque to 40 lb-ft, then loosen, retorque. loosen, and retorque one final time. this works the moly lubricant into the threads and increases the accuracy.

id also advise investing in a GOOD torque wrench. $20 special from pep boys, i wouldnt trust for engine building. crasftman are pretty decent and should be sufficient.
Excellent, someone has the correct info on hand.

I just remembered, the OEM rod bolts have flat oval tops, while the ARP bolts are sort of beveled on one side, so they clear the block better. GSRCRXSi, do you have a pic of them to show what I mean?
 

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dont have a pic on hand, but they are easy to see the differences.

ARP has 12pt nuts, stock has 6
ARP will have dimples on the top and bottom(for stretch measurement), stock GSR does not
ARP is a black oxide color, stock isnt
ARP is marked ARP right on top, stock isnt marked with anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
good call im looking for one im hoping mattminerDOTcom answers my pm since i bought the GSR cams from him i was hoping he would have the gsr crankshaft
 
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